[bratzcpa]

I'm working on building a frame on which to mount my 3 solar panels. The design phase is working out well. I'm planning to use the premade corner, rail, hinge fittings.

But . . . what's the best way to cut the 1" SS rail tubing to the correct length? My choices include, hack saw, powdered Sawzall, a plumbers tubing cutter (where you tighten the wheel as you rotate the device around the pipe), electric grinder with a cutting wheel, or something else???

This SS rail stuff is really tough. Any words of wisdom out there?

thx,

 

[smackdaddy]

I just did this and used a tube/pipe cutter. Very accurate, very simple, very smooth...no power required.

 

[rugosa]

You might get 2 cuts using a plumber's pipe cutter before it is trash. There are similar cutters the pros use for the job you are doing. I normally mask the pipe, use a hack saw, then dress it with a file or mini grinder. The tape will protect against the blade drifting and damaging the finish around the cut. You should plan on polishing also to remove residual rusting potential on the cut.

 

[VallelyJ]

I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel specifically made for SS. Hardware stores or welding supply stores should have the wheels. You can use the same tool with a grinding wheel to clean up the burrs.
JV

 

[aloof]

Fine tooth hacksaw in a miter box. Cut slow and carefully like a craftsman, not like a boatyard hacker.

 

[fryewe]

Sometimes the compression of the tubing cutter will cause the tubing to become oval at the cut which makes fitting installation on the tube very difficult. When using a tubing cutter, make small adjustments in the depth of cut.

 

[ReefMagnet]

Here's a tip to cut the ends perfectly square: wrap some thick paper around the tube so that it's straight edge aligns at the cut. Paper doesn't stretch so this will give you a perfect square line.

As for cutting, a 4" angle grinder with 1mm (0.040") thick metal cutting disk cannot be beat. Don't forget to allow for the kerf - the length lost by the width of the cut - when marking the cut line.

 

[mbianka]

When I was fabricating my solar bimini I used a small plumbers pipe cutter from Home Depot. I only needed to do two cuts but, it worked fine.
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: SOLAR BIMINI PART FOUR: Locating and trimming the rear frame
You could also buy extra blades if your project requires a lot of cuts.

 

[cruisingdream]

There you have it, use something different for every cut & report back what works best.

 

[ccriders]

Wait!
Take two fittings like those used to hold two struts together on a Bimini. Slide them in place, lock them down spaced just right for a fine hack saw blade and saw away. Dress the outside of the ends with a file and the insides with a round file.
You'll get very accurate, perfectly square cuts.
Also, a good bike shop will have a cutting guide that clamps onto 1- 1 1/2 OD.
John

 

[bratzcpa]

thanks for the awesome ideas.

I am going to be working on this while we motor down the ICW for endless hours. It'll give me something to do and get a project done at the same.

Based on that, I think I'll try the tubing cutter (with some extra wheels along just in case).

hmm, just had another thought. I wonder if a dremel tool would work? I could easily power that with my inverter??

 

[bvander66]

Have a rotozip anduse the metal cutoff wheell

 

[hellosailor]

Working while under way??

Then I'd definitely think twice about the tubing cutter, least likely to be moving around while you work. They DO come in different qualities, "home" versus "pro" and guess which is made of harder steel? Also, some cutting oil or even motor oil will help keep it sharp while at work.

And I'd pick up a couple of round and flat files, in case the edges need a little finessing.

If you use a hacksaw, consider a tungsten carbide blade. They cut a wide slot, compared to a fine metal blade, but they really don't care how hard the tubing is, they just chew through it.

 

[captain jack]

I'm working on building a frame on which to mount my 3 solar panels. The design phase is working out well. I'm planning to use the premade corner, rail, hinge fittings.

But . . . what's the best way to cut the 1" SS rail tubing to the correct length? My choices include, hack saw, powdered Sawzall, a plumbers tubing cutter (where you tighten the wheel as you rotate the device around the pipe), electric grinder with a cutting wheel, or something else???

This SS rail stuff is really tough. Any words of wisdom out there?

thx,

a tubing cutter can do ok, although, it will often indent the metal around the cut.

a sawzall with a steel cutting blade works but most stainless is very hard and wears blades out fast. that can get pricey. my favorite is an air powered die grinder with a cut off wheel. if you know what you are doing, it's got great control, doesn't dent the metal, ad it outlasts a saw blade. one word of caution. the steel will get hot at the point of cut. use leather gloves and let the steel cool before handling it for further work.

 

[captain jack]

thanks for the awesome ideas.

I am going to be working on this while we motor down the ICW for endless hours. It'll give me something to do and get a project done at the same.

Based on that, I think I'll try the tubing cutter (with some extra wheels along just in case).

hmm, just had another thought. I wonder if a dremel tool would work? I could easily power that with my inverter??

dremel tool cut off wheels tend to break easily and the tools don't tend to have the grunt of rpm's for heavy work. that's why i said an air powered die grinder. but, then, i didn't realize you were doing it while under way.

that being the case, you really have to watch using any kind of power tool. sawzalls and cut off wheels throw very hot bits of metal all over the place. fiberglass is plastic. plastic burns and melts. it would suck having a bunch of burnt in dots all over your cockpit.

 

[Maine Sail]

I probably do 100+ tubing cuts per year and use a Ridgid pipe cutter with heavy duty SS capable cutting wheels. This is the plumbing grade Ridgid, from a plumbing supply house, not the cheap stuff from Home Depot. I get about 20-25 cuts per wheel.

 

[PorFin]

Something to keep in mind is that stainless gets work hardened -- if it gets hot, it will get hard. Very similar to tempering steel (getting it hot, then quenching it in oil.) This is why when drilling stainless, you want to go with a really hard bit, a pretty slow drill speed, lots of water, and firm but steady pressure.

Going at stainless with a high speed blade like a sawzall, roto-zip, or the like is going to make life more difficult.

In other words, be the tortoise and not the hare...

 

[Group9]

I just did this and used a tube/pipe cutter. Very accurate, very simple, very smooth...no power required.

I've done it several times that way, too. So easy, it's actually hard to believe. I've done it with a hacksaw, too and that's not nearly as easy.

 

[VallelyJ]

You're using fittings for the corners, etc. That means your cut-off ends need to be free of burrs that would interfere with the fit, but the ends don't have to be perfectly square. The sockets are about an inch deep. A sixteenth or so of cant in the end will be meaningless. I'm all for being able to make square, neat cuts in any material when necessary. It's a valuable skill. I'm also a fan of getting the freaking job done and not obsessing over irrelevant details. There's very good advice here for making a good square cut where a square cut is necessary. If you're going to stick the end into a socket, then whether you use a hack saw, an angle grinder, a tubing cutter, don't let perfection be the enemy of the good. Stop obsessing and just cut the damn thing off and move on.

 

[rugosa]

I probably do 100+ tubing cuts per year and use a Ridgid pipe cutter with heavy duty SS capable cutting wheels. This is the plumbing grade Ridgid, from a plumbing supply house, not the cheap stuff from Home Depot. I get about 20-25 cuts per wheel.

Professionals always have the right tool for every job. If they need it once they might rent or borrow it, if they need it more often they buy it. Finesse may be secondary when the poop hits the fan, but a craftsman should execute each job with recognizable pride, and get the cuts right, it's their personal trademark - IMHO