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Discussion Starter #1
I've decided I want to pull my masts and refurb them as well as the steps since I'm spending that $$ I figured I might as well pull the motor to refurb/paint the engine room too

There's an eye directly above the motor and one on the edge of the companionway forward of the motor

I was thinking of using a load balancer suspended upside down between the two eyes - but wondering if there's a better/easier cheaper way to do it? Can I get away with a small chain hoist to lift and a come along to swing it forward?
 

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Knowing the boat/motor/weight would help.. as would any pics of the area.. Do you plan to remove the motor entirely or simply move it over in order to clean things up in the engine space?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm pulling the masts (ketch) and since I have the crane I'm thinking I'm going to take it out completely

It runs flawlessly but it has 3700 hours so I may rebuild it just preventatively (man project creep is a B*tch!)

It's a Yanmar 75

This is the forward Eye


It's a one off boat as far as I know
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm pulling the masts (ketch) and since I have the crane I'm thinking I'm going to take it out completely

It runs flawlessly but it has 3700 hours so I may rebuild it just preventatively (man project creep is a B*tch!)

It's a Yanmar 75 (I've read 560lbs)

This is the forward Eye
 

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the pointy end is the bow
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I can't tell where the second eye hook is, but if it's nearby and a straight unobstructed shot, I would probably try and fabricate a steel tube anchored to the the two eyes, lift the motor off the pads with a small comealong and then slide the comealong down the steel tube to where it can be lifted out of the boat. You can remove alternators, starters and other engine accessories to minimize the motor's weight and overall dimensions before the big lift as well. That's all imaginary right now, as I can't see the layout, but I have seen some creative temporary structures built to move motors in boats.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't tell where the second eye hook is, but if it's nearby and a straight unobstructed shot, I would probably try and fabricate a steel tube anchored to the the two eyes, lift the motor off the pads with a small comealong and then slide the comealong down the steel tube to where it can be lifted out of the boat. You can remove alternators, starters and other engine accessories to minimize the motor's weight and overall dimensions before the big lift as well. That's all imaginary right now, as I can't see the layout, but I have seen some creative temporary structures built to move motors in boats.
The second eye is barely visible just to the right of the red throttle cable

560# straight up with a comealong? man that sounds scary! :eek:

HF sells a chain fall with a 500 pound max and I'm seriously toying with the idea of that instead of the bigger one just because the size is a lot more useful but I'm not sure I trust HF to the max much less slightly more

I was actually thinking it might be cool to have a 4' I beam and a trolly and I could either bolt it or weld some L shaped slats to hold it to the cross beam and then I could move the beam from engine room to the port quarter-berth where I plan to put in a generator or the starboard one to move Batts in out Maybe could even make a crane/davit/ on deck out of it?

But then I chicken out at the thought of dealing with even a small steel beam like that and then haven;t a clue about stainless or a smaller alum beam and that's when I realize I'm way overthinking it so I like your way better :)

I suppose a few wraps of nylon strap are more than enough to hold a piece of bar and the motor on the bar!?

is 1x1 by 1/8 rigid enough to support an engine like that or do I need something more like 1x2?
 

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Sailor
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I used a trolley and I beam to remove my 55 hp Yanmar with a chainfall. It worked very well and made replacing the engine much easier as well. If you can go that route I would highly recommend it.

Tod
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How did you mount the I beam? If i do that it sure would be nice to have it extend past the threshold.


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Discussion Starter #9
Also did you find a second use for the beam or did you ditch it after the swap?


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I built 2 A frame legs out of doubled up 2 x 4's and positioned 1 behind motor and the other in front. I was able to set motor down on cabin sole.

Afterwards I did not have a use for the I beam - it's sitting in my back porch (under cover but now enclosed).


Mandolin, Bayfield 36 out of Rock Creek, Chesapeake Bay.

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the pointy end is the bow
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560# straight up with a comealong? man that sounds scary!
I suppose, until you've seen it done. I was a mechanic in the army and out in the field we swapped out a lot of transmissions in big trucks with a come along and a big steel pry bar laying between two supports in the cab. Even the cheap ass come alongs I use to keep in my jeep when I was a kid were rated at 2000 lbs. A small chain fall might be better though depending on the vertical clearance between your motor and the bottom of your lifting beam.
 

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Depending on your access, you can also remove a lot of weight before the lift.. manifolds, Heat Exchangers, alternators, brackets will remove weight and reduce bulk for easing the engine out of the space.. If a rebuild is in the works all that has to come off anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Depending on your access, you can also remove a lot of weight before the lift.. manifolds, Heat Exchangers, alternators, brackets will remove weight and reduce bulk for easing the engine out of the space.. If a rebuild is in the works all that has to come off anyhow.
I kinda want to leave it intact because I have not 'decided' anything and I might want to do a compression test or something before I decide to spring for a rebuild (my cheapness rears its ugly head in odd ways)

today I found a remnant Alum I beam that was perfect and relatively cheap Thought I could make a lifting davit out of it later or something

So I went to harbor freight and got a trolly and chain fall and the damned I beam is a tad too small and so now I'm just agro cuz I spent $200 on this dumb project (with zero result) and feeling cheap about the whole thing (now)

The 1 ton harbor freight trolly is also MASSIVE

I'm thinking I could probably just suspend some iron pipe under the eyes with 3-4 wraps of nylon webbing and call it good - if I was feeling macgyver-y I could prolly weld them together and make my own cheapo I beam (but then I think what a crappy darwin award winning way to die that would be when something snapped)

And then just a pully on the pipe zip line style?


It "seems" like it shouldn't work but I mean I have some 1/8 vectran and tiny harken blocks that can lift my dirt bike into a tree & that stuff's all rated 1000+ lbs MWL

Most of that stuff's got way higher breaking loads than this massive steel trolly What am I missing here?
 

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Xymotic,

Did you say you had access to a crane for pulling masts? I used a hand operated mast crane (chain fall type?), at my marina to lift my Universal 5416 out. It weighs a bit less than your Yanmar, probably 400-450 lbs. I did not try to use the lifting eye(s) on the motor, instead I made up two rope slings that I threaded around the engine and trans, one under the transmission end and one at the front. I put both loops onto the chair hook, and adjusted the lengths to let me lift the rear first, and then the front which then allowed the motor to do a "controlled" swing forward and out of it's "hole" (it was controlled by me sitting on the cabin floor with my feet against the engine). Then it was just lifted up through the companionway. It sounds tricky but was pretty straightforward.

I basically reversed the process to reinstall, pushing the suspended motor back into the hole with my feet while someone operated the crane. Once I had one of the engine mounts engaged I used a short pry bar to move the motor around till the others lined up.

I have removed and installed the engine twice now with this technique and find it pretty easy to do with two people.

HTH
Eric
 

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snake charmer, cat herder
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i have removed 2 engines from this ketch of mine..isnt that difficult and i didnt have all that fancy dancy easy cheater stuff. i had me and my muscles, and 2 strong fellas. we used boom and block and tackle lifting system...lol but it took all 3 of us to get her out the overhead hatch which is JUST large enough to remove a torn down 4-108.......
 

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snake charmer, cat herder
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check your compression while engine is in boat, then strip damengine so you can actually remove it from boat. 350- 450 pounds is a lot easier to manhandle up and out of a boat than is 600 pounds....TRUST ME... geez i have done this not just once but TWICE and while not at dock. i have been anchored or moored on a mooring when i remove my engines.
 

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In the HVAC industry, it's not uncommon to use a portable gantry for replacing large electric motors, compressors, etc.

Available in aluminum, makes it easy to carry (I've roped them up to roofs, dismantled of course). The smaller ones are 1 ton capacity.
You should check local equipment rental yards, like this one:
Gantries | Rent Gantries | ABC Equipment Rental
Typically, you can rent the gantry and trolley without the hoist, if you like, and use your own chainfall, come-along, etc. Use the beam and one trestle, secure free end of beam on properly supported structure. Or adjust height of trestles independently (one in cockpit, the other on the cabin sole. They're quite versatile.
 

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I'm hung up on the words "runs flawlessly" and "preventative rebuild". Your business to be sure but 3700 hrs is not a lot for a well maintained diesel. Why not just do an oil analysis, see what that says, then go from there? If normal, why bother? You could have the injectors rebuilt. But why the effort of pulling and rebuilding? If it ain't broke.......
 
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