[Teacherman]

I own a 1986 Catalina 30 with a Universal 25. I want to start up the engine while she's on the hard. What is the best way to do so in order to get water to cool? I was told just run a garden hose through the thru haul and open the sea **** and turn the water on. Is that it?

Much thanks

 

[chuck53]

I've never done it, but on my boat, I'd close the engine thru hull, open up the strainer and hold the hose over it.
There's also a product called fake a lake which looks like a plunger that you can connect a garden hose to.

 

[CalebD]

Never, ever put municipal water at pressure into your engine - unless of course you really want to flood the exhaust and engine cylinders with water!

Much easier and safer to use clean a 5 gallon bucket that you fill with water from a hose. First, disconnect the raw water intake hose from the through hull fitting. If the hose is not long enough to reach into your 5 gallon bucket then get another length of hose and jury rig it to extend the hose so it can reach the bottom of your bucket full of water. Ensure that your extra hose will not let any air into the system.

You will most likely have to prime your hose (eg., fill it with water) before turning on your engine and therefore your raw water pump. If your bucket is high enough a syphon will form and water will slowly be delivered to your engine's cooling system, aided by your raw water pump if running.

When you want to stop your engine be sure to break any syphon of water to the engine.

This is simpler if you have a "T" fitting in your raw water intake line that can be used as an alternate supply of water.

Running pressurized water into your engine is asking for a ton of trouble.

 

[seaner97]

One of those old fashioned plungers with the center drilled out, a leftover piece of copper tubing jammed in and ducttaped to a length of garden hose. Drop that into a kiddie pool full of water with the hose running into it. Can use a boat stand to compress against the through hull. Run to your hearts' content.

 

[seaner97]

Oh yeah- and hold the hose underwater to prime first.

 

[chuck53]

As I said, the easiest, just open up your strainer and stick the hose in. There is no pressure, just regulate the pressure with the hand nozzle. If you have too much water, it just runs down the side of the strainer into the bilge. takes 30 seconds to close the thru hull and take the top off the strainer. On my old boat I use to do the hose in the bucket trick and this is way easier.
I do this every time I use the boat to flush my engine. Also makes it easy to winterize.

 

[ReefMagnet]

Using a bowl strainer is a good idea if fitted, but I'd second the bucket method, especially if your attention will be diverted to other tasks while the engine is running. You can disconnect the intake at the raw water pump and use another piece of hose to reach the bucket.

 

[JimsCAL]

Calebd's procedure is the way to go. DO NOT pressurize your engine directly with a garden hose! Only thing I would add to Caleb's procedure is to run your garden hose to the bucket so you can keep it filled while the engine is running.

 

[chuck53]

My sea strainer is just a really small bucket, and just like a bucket, if you have too much water, it runs over the sides.

 

[Teacherman]

Wow thanks guys so much. I think I understand. I'm going to have to disconnect the water strainer. I bought a five gallon bucket. So what exactly does it mean to prime the hose. I'm thinking I'll have to buy a rubber hose and hook it up because I cannot fit the bucket in the compartment.

 

[mf70]

Prime= Make sure the hose is full of water. With raw water coolng, i flush with fresh before each extended lay-up. I've put a 3-way valve ahead of the strainer, with a 4' length of clear tube. I fill the sink and siphon it into the engine. I do the same thing on the hard. Remember, leave it in neutral, as the cutless bearing on the shaft won't be lubricated.

 

[Bene505]

This is what I do it so I don't have to worry about priming:

Take off the top of the strainer.

Put shot length (5') of garden hose into the strainer outlet that goes to the engine. (Not the hose that goes to the thru-hull.)

Note that the hose is too small of a diameter to make a snug fit in the strainer outlet hose.

Wrap electrical tape around the garden hose, until it fits so snugly that you really have to push it into the sea strainer outlet hose.

Put other end of short hose into 5 gallon bucket located inside the boat. (No pulling up water from down on ground level.)

Fill the bucket using a long hose to the spigot in the marina. Use a valve on the end of the hose to adjust flow. They are brass and maybe $8 at any good hardware store.

Start engine.

Adjust the flow of the marina hose so the bucket stays partly full. (Will need to change flow at different RPMs. The bucket gives you time to adjust it, either up or down.)

The engine sucks up water from the bucket, because you put just the right amount of electrical tape on the short hose to make that snug fit.

When you are done, get a sharpie and write on the short hose some instructions on what it's for and how to use it. Then save it for next time.

Regards,
Brad

 

[asdf38]

Wow thanks guys so much. I think I understand. I'm going to have to disconnect the water strainer. I bought a five gallon bucket. So what exactly does it mean to prime the hose. I'm thinking I'll have to buy a rubber hose and hook it up because I cannot fit the bucket in the compartment.

I disagree with the priming detail. My engine (1GM10) never has trouble priming.

Just fill the bucket and stick the hose in.

Though I'll say that removing and then replacing the hose from the seacock is literally my least favorite boat task ever.

 

[rikhall]

Get a big bucket. You can just take a plastic hose connector

stick it in the raw water hose that you took off the strainer (if you have a strainer) or off the thru hull if you don't have a strainer. Take a length of garden hose or any other hose that is long enough to make your water hose reach the bucket. Fill the bucket, (carefully fill the hose) and then stick the hose in the bucket full of water. (Filling the hose is "priming it" That way your engine water pump is not sucking air, it is sucking water.)

Have someone on the water hose that is from the tap going INTO the bucket to keep the water level high enough so the engine continues to suck water.

Do not put the engine in gear!!!

When it starts, check over the back to make sure water is coming out. If not - shut down and check everything.

When you are all done running the engine, turn off the tap and reconnect everything the way it is supposed to go.

Put your hose connector and the extra length of hose in the bucket, take it home and then you will have all the parts you need for next time.

Rik

 

[Stu Jackson]

Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

Winterizing A Diesel Engine On The Hard - SailboatOwners.com

 

[Rockter]

Let the engine suck the water in out of a bucket.
Keep the bucket fed with a hose.
You cannot go wrong.
Remember to shut the hose off when you stop the motor.

 

[smurphny]

What Caleb said. It's also the way to run antifreeze into the engine for storage. My pump will run water out faster than a hose will fill a bucket so keep an eye on it when running. Obviously, make sure engine is out of gear. I 've never had to prime or fill the hose. The pump picks water up immediately.

 

[redline]

I've run my previous 2GM20 by connecting a garden hose to a "T" fitting, with the side of the T going to my water pump and the other end open. With the T above the engine (actually over the side of the boat) and the faucet open enough to keep water spouting out the open end, the engine can draw what it needs without being pressure-fed; any uneeded water goes out the T. This was easier than trying to keep a bucket filled while varying engine speed and/or working in front of the engine where the bucket is placed.

I've not had to run my current ((4JH2TE) engine for any length of time on the hard, but for winterizing I do it at haul-out; just after driving the boat into the slings but before they lift, I open the strainer / close the through-hull then pour a couple gallons of antifreeze into the strainer. Kill the engine after the second gallon is in (oil was changed prior to hauling) and it's done. One gallon would likely do it; the second is insurance against dilution. A dozen years of Canadian winters and no problem.

 

[asdf38]

I've run my previous 2GM20 by connecting a garden hose to a "T" fitting, with the side of the T going to my water pump and the other end open. With the T above the engine (actually over the side of the boat) and the faucet open enough to keep water spouting out the open end, the engine can draw what it needs without being pressure-fed; any uneeded water goes out the T. This was easier than trying to keep a bucket filled while varying engine speed and/or working in front of the engine where the bucket is placed.

I've not had to run my current ((4JH2TE) engine for any length of time on the hard, but for winterizing I do it at haul-out; just after driving the boat into the slings but before they lift, I open the strainer / close the through-hull then pour a couple gallons of antifreeze into the strainer. Kill the engine after the second gallon is in (oil was changed prior to hauling) and it's done. One gallon would likely do it; the second is insurance against dilution. A dozen years of Canadian winters and no problem.

Be careful with this method.

I know my Yanmar (much smaller than yours) uses a bypass mechanism for temperature control. The cooling water mostly bypasses the block until the engine gets up to temperature.

So given that, the engine either needs to be run up to temperature prior to pouring in the anti-freeze or the block needs to be drained. It's also possible to clamp the bypass hose which forces anti-freeze into the block through the small hole in the thermostat.

 

[redline]

Yes, it does need to run up to temperature, which I manage during the warmup and drive to the travelift bay. Unless I'm the first haul-out of the day, it's warmup, change oil, warmup/drive, antifreeze, haul, beer.