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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I never ran stabilizer through my Diesel engine. It's been on land for two months now. I did change the oil, ran antifreeze through engine. But forgot to run the engine with stabilizer in the fuel. What is this going to do? Can I still attempt to run the engine n fill up the fuel tank?
 

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Diesel fuel doesn't separate like modern formulations of gasoline, the fuel will be fine until next year. You CAN run the engine on the hard, but you have to supply cooling water. I've never stabilized my diesel fuel, and haven't had any trouble.
 

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Filling the tank will stop condensation from accumulating, that looks like #1 reason for diesel to fuel starting to go bad. Here are the facts...http://www.mydieseldoctor.com/FAQ.html You can still treat the tank, but not the engine. Gas is stable if 1, the tank is full to keep out condensation and 2. in an air tight container to keep from oxidation. Carburetors that are vented to the atmosphere need to be drained.
 

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Noah's Bosun
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Short answer...
No problem mon..

Long answer...
Hydrocarbon fuels are susceptible to various forms of degradation over time causing reduced combustion properties, filter and fuel system clogging, and other nasties. The primary issues are oxidation and re-polymerization, followed by water and then by biological contaminants.

Oxidation and re-polymerization can cause fuel system failure from the formation of gums, varnishes and long chain agglomerations (solid particulates). The increase in catalytic cracking for the production of hydrocarbon fuels has exacerbated the problems of oxidation/re-polymerization. During the catalytic cracking process long chain hydrocarbon molecules are broken into shorter chains which are refined into additional gasoline, kerosene and fuel oils. However, unlike the natural counterparts, the artificially cracked chains have “active ends” – bonds which have been broken and which are susceptible to recombining with other unstable molecules. Lighter products such as gasoline are far more susceptible to this issue than heavier fuels such as kerosene (jet fuel) and diesels.

Water is a long term issue, caused by contaminated fuel from your supplier, condensation and separation of emulsified water from the fuel during storage. The formulation of ethanol modified gasolines makes them (again) more susceptible to emulsified water due to the hygroscopic properties of ethanol.
A modern fuel/water separator will adequately address the issue of non-emulsified water in a fuel system, but provisions to drain any accumulated water from the lower portion of your fuel tanks should be installed and checked on a regular basis. Separated water in a fuel tank can provide an ideal environment for biological growth and tank corrosion. De-watering additives (90% ethanol/methanol) only serve to combine with emulsified water which then precipitates to the bottom of the tank or other low points in the fuel system.

Biological contaminants (bacteria, fungi, algae) primarily reproduce along the fuel/water interface and the resulting "bio-film" can be found along tank walls, baffles and eventually the entire fuel system leading to clogging of filters and small diameter orifices (injectors, injector pumps and carburetor jets). Diesel fuels are more susceptible than gasolines to bio-contamination due to their (relatively) lower toxicity. Most diesel fuels produced in the USA and other industrialized nations contain biocides, but cost issues make the addition of these additives less common in 3rd world environments.

The bottom line is, if you have clean "bright" diesel fuel fuel, purchased from a reputable dealer, stored in a clean tank and delivered through a proper filtration system, a few months storage without additional additives is.... (as stated in the short answer) No problem mon!
 

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islander bahama 24
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I Dan my diesel truck for 6 months on fuel from an old trucking company fuel truck that had sat for 30 years and actually got better mileage on it. Don't sweat the small stuff.
 

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Blue Horizons
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A very well known diesel mechanic in the Abacos told me his biggest buisness is from foul fuel becsuse of condensation in the tanks which results in sludge which blocks up engines quick. He told me to always keep your tanks filled and to add some of the additive which prevents sludge. Also suggest cleaning out tank every other year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I never did anything to clear the fuel lines. Just placed the boat on land after pulling into the slip. I also noticed my boat is taking on water while on land from rain. I have not tarped her yet...
 

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H2OUT. These have proven to eliminate the condensation issue. The media generally lasts several years. I understand that Vetus is working on a product that will be available soon.

AVD2 | Air Vent Dryers | Products | H2Out

They also reduce oxygen exposure to some extent, by reducing convention turnover.

Moisture, even in amounts that do not settle out, leads to corrosion and bug growth.

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But as for the OP, just do it next year and sleep well. No big, one year.
 

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Don't sweat it you won't have a problem unless you have large (100gal) tank half filled. Any condensation formed on the walls not covered with fuel. I've never added any of the pixie dust products to my fuel for the winter and never had a problem.
 

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Master Mariner
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There have been a few threads on here about full tanks versus empty ones and condensation and the consensus seems to be that the condensation thing is a myth.
Put simply, an empty tank will not fill itself with water or we wouldn't have a water shortage ANYWHERE.
If you are worried that your fuel is a bit old, just brighten it up with a few gallons of new fuel next season and change your fuel filters regularly.
 

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Informative thread. Thanks.

Please excuse my neubness - would someone describe fuel 'polishing' - when and why and to what extent our onboard systems accomplish this?
 

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... I've never added any of the pixie dust products to my fuel for the winter and never had a problem.
Kinder than "snake oil." Most really do something, but it's rather like taking vitamins:
* Which vitamins do you need? Perhaps none with a good diet, or perhaps a certain few.
* How do you know which ones, short of blood testing?
* Which vitamins are in the product?
* If you don't need them, they are wasted money.
* If you take too much they can cause harm.
* None are helpful above the amount that is needed.

Probably the kindest thing you can do is run the engine enough to burn though the fuel at least annually.
 

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One thing mentioned by a mechanic/teacher was he thought a lubricant was a nice addition to the current clean on-road fuels, because the sulfur in the older mix acted as a lubricant.

Kind of what I understand lead did in the old gas engines.

YMMV. I don't know which diesel is available at most marinas, but I "assume" it's the same formulation as the on-road stuff without the dye indicating the road fuel tax was paid.
 

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You are quite correct, lead did coat and lube. It has been an issue with my L head Graymarine (gas) engine, no lube to the valve stems. I now fog cylinders with Sea Foam to winterize and add Mystery Marvel oil in the gas. ::Marvel Mystery Oil::
 
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