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Discussion Starter #21
JouvertSpirit said:
I just finished replacing a 1974 Farymann with a Yanmar 3YM20. There was some additional fabrication needed to make the engine mounts line up (the newer engines are smaller for the same HP), but it was a small amount of the total job.

What caught me off guard $ wise was the lay-up time in the yard; we had 2 weeks of constant rainy weather right after dry docking. Don't forget to add the yard time into your costs.

That's not a problem.."The dealer and installer" rides his bike to my slip a minute and a half away..."Sought of right in my lap"...Not leaving for another month in a half..so I'm in ideal position for installation and sea trials. Should be able to do it right in my slip....Good point though
 

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Larus Marinus
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tigerregis said:
MD series predates 2001, 02, 03, etc. Not the same at all.
Yea, right. Volvo took my MD21A off their spares list. Luckily, the MD32, its six cylinder brother, is still there, for a while. Then there's the AQ120, which has some common bits, also an old engine. 30 years isn't much for a marine diesel, but if the manufacturer gives up on supporting spares, .... I hope Yanmar has a better record.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Newport41 said:
I'm not diesel mechanic but I have worked as a small engine mechanic and I have asked a lot of relevant people as I was hoping to replace our universal 32hp due to rust. In the end it's going to have to settle for a new oil pan due to lack of funds. Our 41 footer is arguably underpowered. As was said above, auxillary was a term that wasn't ment to be taken lightly 25-30 years ago. The nice thing about replacing a diesel of that vintage is that a similar size engine will have 20% more power. I looked at a 40hp Yanmar that had the same dimensions as our 32hp. And the unanimous decision around this part of the world was Yanmar. Isuzu makes a great diesel but some models aren't cut out for the marine environment. the other nice thing about a new engine is fuel consumption is on average 10% better. For offshore work this could be significant. I'd like to here from anyone that has repowered recently. What was the final bill?
The 40 HP..Yanmar is the 3jh4E but I figured I'd go up one notch to the4jH4E...54 HP...50hp continuous..In the scheme of things..whatever the extra cost..for the additional power..I would have no regrets..particularly in a difficult seaway..I'll keep the thread posted seeing the dealer tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Tom967 said:
That's not a problem.."The dealer and installer" rides his bike to my slip a minute and a half away..."Sought of right in my lap"...Not leaving for another month in a half..so I'm in ideal position for installation and sea trials. Should be able to do it right in my slip....Good point though
Are you thinking of doing an engine replacement w/out dry docking the boat?
 

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Yamnar has several main service/import centers in europe. The nearest to me is in Spain

Then the dealers all over in each Country. The nearest to me 1 mile!!!!

I had an engine mount broken from overtightening, when they installed it. I complained on a Thursday morning to the dealer near my boat, he called Spain that same instance and the monut was sent the same day from Spain.
Installed Friday at 2 pm and I was off to sea at 2:30pm!!!!!!1

They sent me a voucher for a free oil change and service and a leather organizer!!!

Beat that!!!?????!!! (previous experience) Volvo...IN MY MARINA!!!! wouln't even answer the phone...had to go there 5 times call the guy....they didn't show up for 2 days, replaced a part under guarantee and charged me for man hours!!!!!

Thus my bias
 

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Discussion Starter #27
redcorvette1995 said:
I replaced my old engine with a Yanmar 3YM20 2 years ago and have been very happy with the new engine since. They also have the 3YM30 which is 30 HP.

One thing to keep in mind when you put in a new engine is that there are a lot of additional parts to buy: shaft, exhaust, thru-hull, custom engine mount, engine bed glass work, etc... etc... The price does add up. The labor is also very expensive if you can't do the work yourself.

That being said, is it worth it?
You bet!
Knowing that the engine will start on the first twist of the key is wonderful peace of mind. It is also auto bleeding which is an excellent feature.


Todd
After reading three pages of really helpful comments..Will talk to the dealer tomorrow morning..I'm focusing on the Yanmar 4JH4-E...56 HP..50 continuous...makes sense for my boat..optimistic about engine bed footprint being fairly compatible.."We'll see tomorrow..Thanks for ALL the comments
 

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Tom967 said:
After reading three pages of really helpful comments..Will talk to the dealer tomorrow morning..I'm focusing on the Yanmar 4JH4-E...56 HP..50 continuous...makes sense for my boat..optimistic about engine bed footprint being fairly compatible.."We'll see tomorrow..Thanks for ALL the comments
If you want I can post some photos of the installation of mine in a new boat
 

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Larus Marinus
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Tom967 said:
The 40 HP..Yanmar is the 3jh4E but I figured I'd go up one notch to the4jH4E...54 HP...50hp continuous..In the scheme of things..whatever the extra cost..for the additional power..I would have no regrets..particularly in a difficult seaway..I'll keep the thread posted seeing the dealer tomorrow
Oh! I forgot to suggest that you check all the extras needed, especially the propellor.
 

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In response to Giuletta's comment about a marine diesel engine built "from scratch", it seems to me that all of them begin life as a general purpose basic engine, and are thereafter modified to suit particular applications. As an example, my little 2GM has cousins driving generators in marine and land-based service.

The great virtue in this is that a particular basic engine design can be manufactured in great numbers (the marine market is pretty small) and their worth can be proven by many operating hours accumulated in all kinds of applications.

Now what makes a good marine engine? I submit that it is the care with which the engine is outfitted for marine service. Everything part except the basic block and heads is usually a marine specific part. In that respect, Yanmar excels. I am continually impressed with the obvious care in engineering, manufacture, and materials that go into its marine line.

A practical measure of engineering lies in what it takes to repair something. When I bought my present boat, the little Yanmar was seized up as a result of having its combustion chambers filled with antifreeze solution several years earlier. I anticipated total replacement. When I opened it up however, I found that a new set of sleeves, piston assemblies, head and pan gaskets were all that was required to repair the corrosion damage. I didn't even have to have the head machined. (It wasn't all beer and skittles, I also replaced a lot of filters, belts, air silencer and so forth.) With new paint, it looks and runs like a new engine.

Yanmar is also a leading manufacturer of other diesel powered equipment, including tractors. See:
http://www.ask.com/web?q=yanmar+tractor&qsrc=0&o=0&l=dir
 

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Idiens said:
Please do Giu. I might get some ideas from it. Most of my new installation I will be doing myself.
OK...sorry for the dust...:D :D :D Remember mine is a SD50 racing saildrive, longer and thiner.

OK here is the Yanmar engine mount, that you fibergalss pretty much where you want to. We installed it as far forward as we could. It was cut to follow the descent of the hull.



Same as above but top view..the round part is where the seal of the saildrive goes. Note it is not at its final location.





Bellow it already in its place, between the 2 rear cabins, wood is for mould. That central compartment was kept free and is used to store sails etc. Goes from the «back of the engine all the way to the transom. My idea.









Here you can see the engine at the end of the corridor, and my first Glass fiber Rudder quadrant. (rudder is controlled by lightweight Dyneema cables). The new one is Carbon fiber.


Engine compartment and storage



View from inside with stairs up. Yes I use cheap light car batteries get over it!!!:D :D





Engine controls near Stbd wheel.



saildrive and racing fold prop, by Gori.



and here a view of said locker full of crapp I have to carry when we cruise....:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:




Hope it helps, if you have more questions..please don't hesitate

G
 

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Idiens said:
Thanks Giu, I see you can access the engine from the front easily from under the stairs. Can you also access other parts also?
You can access from the sides thru removable panels on the walls of the rear cabins. thru the front as you can see, from behind thru the corridor, and from the top.

The idea was to have full access everywhere...yanmar thanks..they say its one of the most accessible they have seen.

I posted more above, check them
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Talked to my mechanic today..at the Marina ...As I suspected the Yanmar 4JH3E made a lot of sense..Engine..wire harness freight etc..about $11.3 with freight and make sense few options.. etc...

Drive line $250 ...prop $300.."extra expense

I'll have to do some engine bed modification...but a real ball breaker is...new exhaust system...probably run $1000.00...Mine is 2.5 "..on the volvo...The Yanmar requires 3" system..."Not a difficult job..I can do that myself..within a few hours...

So i"ts not going to be cheap...lot of the dirty work done by me...but once you make up your mind...no point in nickle and diming...The old engine esentially worth zip..."It is what it is"

Mark is a good guy has a great reputation here at the Marina..and on the Island...

After old engine out...clean and paint bilge area below the engine...Modify the strainer position and Racor as required..

"Ought to be fun,,did everything else on boat myself.."An engine worthy of my twin 4D... AGM Concord Heartline batteries...

Like to get Opinions..The acceptance rate of charge on AGM's is 4 times faster than wet cells...twice Gel batteries.."One of the real benefits of AGM's...as I understand it...So rather than spend an additional $185.00 for the 80 amp alternator...staying with the standard 60..plus I have a rather efficient wind generator.."So I figured just peeing money away?

Although I do not have hot water heater..ordered the hot water kit with valve..Anyone have any feedback on that ..and how it interfaces with additional required equipment..would appreciate feedback on that issue too.?

I didn't order any added pulleys..have external gas generator..and external air conditioning..The compressor to run refrigeration was shot..

but can do that off 3KW invertor or my generator..."only a half hr on the cold plates...required..every other day

Thoughts welcomed
 

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Tom967 said:
...new exhaust system...probably run $1000.00...Mine is 2.5 "..on the volvo...The Yanmar requires 3" system..."Not a difficult job..I can do that myself..within a few hours...
Maybe I did not understand your point, which may be the case

My exhaust for my Yanmar cost less then $300.

It consists of a rubber tube page 143, for exhausts from Vetus, a chrome exhaust exit mounted at the stern, a water lock exhaust box page 139, a J pipe...all cost me less that 300 Euros.

Go to catalog, index exhaust sustem to see parts I used

Why is your $1000???

Check out Vetus...do you have that ion the US??
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Volvo MD3B to Yanmar 3GM30F

I did exactly what you are contemplating about eight months ago. My 1970's Volvo gave up the ghost on a trip up the intracoastal. Thank heavens for BOATUS towing insurance, but that's another story. Here's this one:

My mechanic recommended the Yanmar. It is smaller than the Volvo, weighs less, produces 30 hp but that is directly to the shaft (Volvo was 37hp but that was supposedly before transmission.) He told me that the Yanmar would do the job. Well, it turns out that it was a good thing we did. The engine stringers the Volvo was mounted to, it turns out they were not attached to the boat. Yes, that's right, the weight of the engine was all that was holding it in place. Could have been a bit dicey it it had decided to let go (How long can you tread water?)

Ok, brass tacks...how much? New engine and transmission $7,500, fiberglass work, parts, labor, six weeks on the hard, etc. an additional $7500. The knowledge that the motor is safe, efficient, reliable...priceless! We now have around 60 hours on her and she can move us. 12000 pounds of boat. I don't know if your Volvo was set up the same as ours, and this was perhaps the hardest thing to get used to, We ould cruise at 1500 rpm with the Volvo, 1800 was getting close to max. The Yanmar will cruise along at 3000 rpm, with max about 3500. Oh, one other thing...no black diesel smoke any more!
 
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