[JimMcGee]

Sometime during the next two years we'll be moving from New Jersey to our new home in Marathon. A lot of variables with our business will affect the when so I'm focused on getting our ducks in a row. That way when things are a go we just go.

One of the things I've been kicking around is how we're going to get our boat there. The simple answer is to ship it.

But I keep thinking about a run down the ditch. The biggest problem is taking five weeks off.

What I'm not sure about is whether this is a "once in a lifetime, don't miss it" trip or five weeks of 10 hour days and mind numbing motoring with the occasional interesting stop because you "have to get there".

I'd be curious to hear from those who've done the trip.

 

[ccriders]

I've not done the East coast ICW other than the NJ portion. However I have done the Gulf Coast ICW from Houston to Corpus Christi, just did the very short 25 mile section up to Rockport and find it very tedious. When you are in the "canal" you have to be very on top of the helm and when passing barge traffic, even more so.
However, the sail from Barnegat, up the Deleware and down the Chessapeake is great fun and lots of great sailing. So before going south so to speak, consider sailing that portion even if it means shipping from Norfolk area.
John

 

[MarkofSeaLife]

The Red Necks will think I am being anti American but I will give you my honest opinion.

Its a crock of dog poop.

I was expecting it to be like the rivers and canals of Europe where theres a waterside village or town every few miles where you can stop and see how the town has always been intregal to the waterway.
On the ICW you can count those towns on one hand... And the best of them are not towns but cities: Norfolk, Charleston, Savanah, St Augustine. There is even fewer small ones, Beaufort NC, Oriental (perhaps), one I missed outside of Wilmington(?), and one between two locks.

The rest is houses built on the far shores with 200 meter docks down to their dick boats. Especially further south these lines of houses are unbroken for hundreds of miles.

The marinas in these areas are not co-located with towns, they are stuck in the middle of nowhere without a public bus to take you anywhere. Its a looonnnggg wait for a taxi or you rent a car.

There are some pretty areas of natural bush, forest, waterways you go through and that is nice... But by half way down its getting a bit 'I've seen enough'.

My next excursion down will be this year, I think. And I will probably go Chespeake/Norfolk outside and just stopping in at ose towns and cities I mentioned first. It reduces the time going past houses and increases the time in the areas of cultural significance.

Mark

 

[travlin-easy]

In contrast to Mark's statement above, I enjoyed every minute of it, met lots of nice folks along the way, sailed about 30 percent of the time, saw lots of wildlife, and yes, there are endless miles of nothing but miles and miles, but it's the same when you're in the ocean. I intend to make the trip again this coming October, and my son will be going part of the way with me to Paris Island, then I'm on my own again.

All the best,

Gary

 

[dj2210]

Jim,
Tired of NJ and Barnegat Bay? We moved 16 years ago and we go back to visit family, glad we left. Too busy and too expensive though I loved sailing in Barnegat Bay. Not much experience in the ICW but you might check out this blog if you haven't already. Return to Seasons. A couple that just did the ICW in their Tayana and was interesting. Personally if I had the time and was in position to do it I would. First time experience would be great I would think.
Fair Winds.

 

[fryewe]

The Red Necks will think I am being anti American but I will give you my honest opinion.

Its a crock of dog poop.

I was expecting it to be like the rivers and canals of Europe where theres a waterside village or town every few miles where you can stop and see how the town has always been intregal to the waterway.
On the ICW you can count these towns on one hand...

Well, Mark, it's obvious from your post that you didn't spend enough time on the waterway to get to know us ********, or you would know that nobody appreciates honesty more than a true *******.

If you expected the ICW to be like the rivers and canals of Europe you didn't do your homework very well. With just a bit of inquiry you could have found out that you're more likely to feel like you are on The African Queen than a narrowboat when between Norfolk and Cocoa on the AICW, and on the GICW...without the rapids and waterfalls, of course, but with the miserable swarms of biting bugs.

Now, I will admit that if one is looking forward to a reprise of the Canal du Midi or The Grand Canal, he's likely to be disappointed with the Great Dismal Swamp, but the ICW has its own history and beauty, and grand variety of boating scattered along the route between the monotonous bits.

 

[blowinstink]

I am somewhere between Mark and Gary on this one. Parts of the ICW are gorgeous, some other parts are simply long days of following narrow channels in shallow water. In all, however, I would say that it is an experience not to be missed (although I would never run it annually like some do). My one suggestion (backed perhaps by some of what Mark said) is "don't look to the towns for your entertainment" . . . the beauty is mostly on the water (although both Beauforts are jewels). Cape May to Norfolk is fantastic -- people spend a lifetime cruising the Chesapeake so a couple of days on the bay will only wet you appetite. Norfolk to Beaufort NC is a mixed bag . . . some long days interspersed with some interesting water, great food in Coinjock and a fantastic town in Beaufort. Once you are there, you can begin to think about day sails on the outside to break the monotony and make a little better time (a lot better time if you can do an overnighter or two). Last thing I would say is some never put their sails up and that is a mistake that comes from mindset ("we're on the ICW where you motor . . . not sail") as always, life gets more interesting and more enjoyable when you shut down the old banger. .02
M

 

[RichH]

When forced by weather to be 'inside', the AICW is a good but long trip. If you can keep up 60-70+ mi/D (first light to twilight) you 'can' make time and distance.
In many of the notorious 'thin places' its best to ride the crest of the tide .... therefore 'timing' is important and which can slow your progress down a bit.
Definitely 'outside' along FL with its hundreds of 'on-schedule' bascule bridges; but by then, you'll probably be in the NE or E 'trades' .... or 'blue northers'.

Likewise and when below "Hatteras", following just behind the NW gales/blows on the 'outside' in late autumn; then, running 'inside' instead of fighting against a strong SW'er is usually the best, when in a hurry. Going inside/outside can burn up a lot of time running the sometimes long 'inlets'.

The AICW should be 'savored', especially taking the time to 'enjoy' the genuine down home friendliness and courteousness of Virginia, the Carolinas and Georgia.

 

[smurphny]

The ICW is mostly a long slog once you've done it once. Its main attraction is that it offers a safe alternative to the ocean. But, you can intersperse some ocean sailing, weather permitting, if you jump in and out of inlets. You can jump out from Beaufort with plenty of plan-B choices and do a long offshore stretch as far as weather permits. Once down to FL, the inlet choices get dicier because of shallow inlets. The inherent offshore transit problem all the way down the east coast is....the shore To stay inside the Gulf Stream going south, the lee shore is never that far away. The trip through the Chesapeake is great as well. Sailing (especially single-handed) is very limited in the ditch. Jib-only is the usual situation if alone because there would be no way to react quick enough in the narrow waterway to chance having the main up. There are many bascule bridges as well which dictate sails up and down. I have it marked on my charts where to raise and lower sails. With a crew, you could sail quite a lot when the wind cooperates. It's actually fun to have sails up when everyone else is motoring and it can really save fuel.

 

[JimMcGee]

I've done the trip between Barnegat and Norfolk and am familiar with the Bay. I'll definitely carve out a couple of week long trips there before heading south for good.

If I do make the trip I'll be single handing from Norfolk south, meeting up with the wife for a day or two in places like Savannah. A trip that long just isn't something she'd enjoy; and solitude for short periods can be something to savor. No worries about keeping myself occupied as I have a hard drive full of music, the occasional movie and a Nook full of books.

It was interesting that some advocated going outside in Florida. How about Georgia?

Also how bad are the bugs? I realize this will vary with the time of year.

Thanks for the feedback so far, keep it coming.

Jim

 

[JimMcGee]

Jim,
Tired of NJ and Barnegat Bay? We moved 16 years ago and we go back to visit family, glad we left. Too busy and too expensive though I loved sailing in Barnegat Bay. Not much experience in the ICW but you might check out this blog if you haven't already. Return to Seasons. A couple that just did the ICW in their Tayana and was interesting. Personally if I had the time and was in position to do it I would. First time experience would be great I would think.
Fair Winds.

DJ I have to agree. I love being out on the bay. I really love it before Memorial Day and after Labor day when the crowds thin out. Some weekends it feels like rush hour out there.

That said we fell in love with the Keys 25 years ago and the plan has always been to retire there. Frankly I can't wait.

 

[krisscross]

Mark definitely has a point with the fact that most towns along the ICW are not using that great resource to their advantage. But taking the ditch you will get to pass through some absolutely breathtaking wilderness areas, and if your boat has a shallower draft (5' or less) you can anchor in lots of beautiful spots along the way. Plan it in advance, research the local attractions, do not be in a hurry, and you will have an awesome time.

 

[jwing]

For a description of my ICW trip south from St. Augustine, see Mark's post #3, minus the expectation of pseudo-Euro charm, or any charm at all, for we were in Florida. The most interesting aspect of that trip was the married couple aboard who got, let's say, a bit chippy against each other when they drank. And drink they did, for it was their go-to boredom relief.

Thankfully, on our way back, the Gulfstream's influence had us re-entering in Ft. Pierce
so we had a day less in the ditch, and the wife had left the boat several weeks prior. It was a significant test of our mental fortitude to keep the boat between the buoys and not get distracted or fall asleep at the helm.

 

[svzephyr44]

I have done a lot of sections of the "ditch." My simple advice is: it is what you make of it. I singlehand and to me the ditch is simply a long slow slog. With the exception of the section from Norfolk to Morehead City I avoid it if all possible. Matanzas Inlet, Bouge Sound, the list of places I hate is long (and documented on my blog.) Every other day refueling costs, expensive restaurants with mediocre food, expensive nights in a marina to simply tie up overnight - not my cup of tea. Yes, you can anchor and I usually do. The frustration of seeing from my compass that I am heading North when the destination is South is an experience I prefer not to repeat.

All that said, it is the company you keep. If you are with someone(s) who can enjoy exploring along the way there are interesting places to stop. Personally I love Savannah, a long slog from the sea buoy but not far from the ICW intersection.

A couple of notes for your consideration:
1) If you are planning a 5 week (35 day) transit and you intend to stop in marinas each night you can assume a budget of about $200 per day or $7,000 for the trip. That is $50 for fuel, $50 for dining, and $100 for the marina. There are delivery Captains on this site that can give you an idea of what it would cost for them to deliver your boat to Florida. My guess is a lot less than $7,000.
2) The Chesapeake Bay is a very fun place to cruise. But the trip up from Cape May through the C&D Canal and down the Bay adds a couple of hundred miles to the trip. Cape May and Annapolis MD are at about the same latitude. So you will be backtracking up to the C&D canal. It is much more efficient to go offshore direct to Hampton Roads, into the ICW, and out at Morehead City for the sea.
3) Since you are in New Jersey it might make sense to move the boat to the upper Chesapeake for a year or two before you retire and take long weekends in the Bay. It can be a long drive from Barnegat but just transiting the Bay would be sad. It really is beautiful for cruising.
4) You can cut weeks off the transit by going outside at Morehead and heading South. If you are adventurous and have 5 weeks get a qualified Captain - head for Bermuda, drop down to the Bahamas, and recross the Stream into Florida - that would be a 5 week trip to remember. Or just get the Captain to help you work your way down the Coast.

Just some thoughts to entice your planning.

One last and important thought. The first rule of cruising is: Have a destination or a date, but never a destination and a date. More people have hurt themselves and their boats because they had to get to a destination by a certain time and were motivated to make bad decisions.

Fair winds and following seas

 

[chuck5499]

we have done the entire icw once and never again. BUT we do the portion from the cheaspeake down via the great dismal to elizabeth city and the down to port royal sound where we go off shore to miami. we do not agree that there are no real towns as lots of little ones along the way.

you also get to meet other cruisers along the way and some have cruised the world.

you got a boat, you got water, if you can read the wx why in the world would you even consider shipping it. got us scratching our heads.

 

[SVAuspicious]

But I keep thinking about a run down the ditch. The biggest problem is taking five weeks off.

What I'm not sure about is whether this is a "once in a lifetime, don't miss it" trip or five weeks of 10 hour days and mind numbing motoring with the occasional interesting stop because you "have to get there".

I'd be curious to hear from those who've done the trip.

I don't like it. Janet does. I think we demonstrate that it is a personality thing. I'm an offshore guy. Janet likes the views and the little places we stop - anchored or slipped.

The good news for us is that Janet is happy driving all day and I can read or work. *grin*

 

[Minnewaska]

Something to consider is that parts of the ICW may very well be unnavigable by a keel boat in our lifetime. You may be able to say you knew it when.

In the end, I would stay outside when I could, but make use of the ICW when I could as well.

 

[JimMcGee]

you got a boat, you got water, if you can read the wx why in the world would you even consider shipping it. got us scratching our heads.

Chuck & Patty there's two parts to the answer. The first is whether I can/should try to arrange five weeks away from work. I may not have made it clear but I won't retire until a few years after we've made the move south. So putting that much time aside - well you want to know it's going to be worthwhile.

The corollary to that is if it is possible to take five weeks at that point am I better spending it traveling down the ICW, gunkholing around the keys or even taking a hop over to the Bahamas?

But again, a lot of variables around the business will drive this when the time comes.

 

[JimMcGee]

If you are planning a 5 week (35 day) transit and you intend to stop in marinas each night you can assume a budget of about $200 per day or $7,000 for the trip.

< snip >
One last and important thought. The first rule of cruising is: Have a destination or a date, but never a destination and a date.

Fair winds and following seas

I agree with you 100% regarding the calendar. I'd like to think I've learned one or two things from past mistakes

I'm nowhere near the point of working out a budget yet. But my thought was with my draft (4 feet) I could anchor out quite a bit and maybe one night a week dinner in a marina. At cruising speed (5.8 knots) I average a half gallon an hour so about 5 gallons of diesel a day. With an 18 gallon tank and four 5 gallon cans I could go a while between stops and only burn around $20 a day in fuel. So hopefully I could bring it in for a good bit less than $7K.

 

[TQA]

I think the key thing is the OP is going to run it on a schedule, so there will be little time to enjoy the sites.

I did Key West to the Chesapeake and up the Potomac to Washington DC then back down. 7 months, I had a great time, I don't think I would do it again.

I have some great memories though;-

Hiding out from hurricane Bertha.
Seeing the damage at places like Topsail Beach
Being hit by lightening and having the compass adjuster degausser for the navy demagnetize my boat for a 6 pack.
Buying broken shrimp for $1 a pound and having to fight off the cat to get my share.
Watching the same cat make giant leaps to snatch enormous dragon flies in mid air as we cruised up the Great Dismal Swamp section.
Visiting a Piggly Wiggly for the first time.
Getting invited to a crab boil on the Chesapeake and learning about Jimmies.
Hiding out from hurricane Francis in Washington DC then watching stuff float by including a VW.
Visiting Topsail beach after Francis and talking to someone who had just finished replacing his roof after Bertha and was having to do it all over again.
Being woken by a loud knocking while anchored in the middle of nowhere to find swans pecking on the side of the boat and waiting to be fed.

to name but a few.