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In my other thread "are these blisters" I have learned that my skeg shoe is rusting. I need to get the rust off before I paint. I am a metal worker and used to using a metowbo or 6 inch grinder with various grinding wheels. I was thinking of using it with those sandpaper "flap" discs but it is high speed and dont want to dig into any fiberglass. What would the prefered tool be for this. I dont mind buying a good tool and hopefully be able to use it on other projects. thanks for any advice.
 

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perhaps a pc of lath clamped somehow as a stop? metabo w/flap wheel would be my first choice.mebbe yhat manual scrapers are only viable option to provide non fg contact?
 

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A smaller 4-5 inch minigrinder with a course grit disc (with rubber backing pad) is pretty effective and controllable as well. Have had a decade of good service with my Bosch mini.
 

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In my other thread "are these blisters" I have learned that my skeg shoe is rusting. I need to get the rust off before I paint. I am a metal worker and used to using a metowbo or 6 inch grinder with various grinding wheels. I was thinking of using it with those sandpaper "flap" discs but it is high speed and dont want to dig into any fiberglass. What would the prefered tool be for this. I dont mind buying a good tool and hopefully be able to use it on other projects. thanks for any advice.
I've used a variable speed drill (corded) with a flap wheel to remove the rust and old paint on my outdoor meat smoker with good success.
 

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You are way over thinking this one. You need to keep your work in control, as the glass around the steel is much softer; grinders and the like can do much damage. A wire wheel in a drill should expose the steel. There are needle guns for this kind of work, but frankly this job just isn't large enough to warrant that sort of tool, so I'd use a chipping hammer to remove the scale and again the wire brush to polish the metal. Then you'll want to use Ospho to stop any rust until you can begin rust proofing the steel with whatever company's products you choose. Since it's underwater, a tar/epoxy is a good insulator and barrier coat. But every company has a series of coverings, from primer to undercoat and then the barrier coat before the bottom paint, and I would stick with one product line. One other route would be to take the pintals and gudgeons off and have them hot dipped galvanized, and painted. This would definitely extend their lifespan, but perhaps not cost/labor effective.
As mentioned in the other thread, your pintals and gudgeons should have been bronze, but I'm pretty sure these are not. Even if you do a perfect job of rust proofing the brackets themselves, I doubt there will be any way to keep the pins from rusting (unless you hot dip galvanize), so inspect them regularly.
 
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