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I've decided I'm going to keep the old Evinrude that came with my boat. Since it isn't my primary engine, I can work on it when I have the time to do so. The last time I started it I did not see any water flowing from the exhaust (this model does not have a dedicated pee hole). So, I bought a new impeller, but looking on line suggest replacing the water pump housing as well.

Once I pull it apart, will I be able to tell if I need to replace the housing as well as the impeller?
 

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IIRC, the last impeller replacement I did was on my Johnson 1970 6HP. I think the parts came as a kit, housing & impeller. Actually, what I found was that it wasn't the impeller. We used to tip the motor up when not in use. Apparently, this caused the power head not to thoroughly drain. Salt deposits gradually accumulated right at the power head/lower unit joint, slowly cutting off the water flow.

This I discovered after replacing the thermostat & impeller. Cleaned the joint all out, put it together and the motor still lives happily today on my daughter's fishing boat as a trolling motor. If I was going to do the impeller again I would turn the motor upside down while guiding the water tube back into the power head. Much easier to see what you are doing & the O ring seal wouldn't fall out of the recess in the power head.

Looking back on it, we should probably have left the motor down for a few minutes to let the power head thoroughly drain.

Paul T
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IIRC, the last impeller replacement I did was on my Johnson 1970 6HP. I think the parts came as a kit, housing & impeller. Actually, what I found was that it wasn't the impeller. We used to tip the motor up when not in use. Apparently, this caused the power head not to thoroughly drain. Salt deposits gradually accumulated right at the power head/lower unit joint, slowly cutting off the water flow.

This I discovered after replacing the thermostat & impeller. Cleaned the joint all out, put it together and the motor still lives happily today on my daughter's fishing boat as a trolling motor. If I was going to do the impeller again I would turn the motor upside down while guiding the water tube back into the power head. Much easier to see what you are doing & the O ring seal wouldn't fall out of the recess in the power head.

Looking back on it, we should probably have left the motor down for a few minutes to let the power head thoroughly drain.

Paul T
Am I right in assuming that I will first drain the oil using the plug in the lower unit. Then I'll tip the motor upside down to remove the bolts holding it on? I've never done this type of maintenance on an outboard before. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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No need to drain the lower oil unless you are going to replace the oil or seals just place motor on a stand and pull the lower unit off no need to invert engine actually I find it easier not to invert especially when disconecting/ reconnecting the shift linkage. Just tilt it up like on the boat to do the work
 

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No need to drain the lower oil unless you are going to replace the oil or seals just place motor on a stand and pull the lower unit off no need to invert engine actually I find it easier not to invert especially when disconecting/ reconnecting the shift linkage. Just tilt it up like on the boat to do the work
I have done it this way on larger motors & it works fine. Depends on how much light you have, You can always get someone to hold a drop light. If the O ring at the power head keeps falling out, just put a dab of grease on it

Suggest you do not remove the driveshaft from the gear case grease. If, when you go to re-install the drive shaft into the power head, & it doesn't want to go in, rotate the lower unit right to left a bit. If that doesn't work turn the motor over SLOWLY with the starter cord, Carful!! The splines on the shaft have to line up with the splines in the power head.

If the new housing doesn't want to slip over the shaft, dress the spot down with some fine sandpaper or steel wool, just enough for the housing to slide down. You may have to do this to get the old housing off. There may be a bit of rust or corrosion on the shaft, making the housing bind a bit. Don't force it.

The most difficult part I encountered was getting the water tube lined up & slid into the O ring in the power head. An extra set of hands & eyes may be helpful. Suggest you get an extra couple of new O rings. If the water tube doesn't want to go in, don't force it, you may damage the O ring & not know it

It wouldn't hurt to put a bit of silicone grease (Plumbers grease), on the impeller vanes before re-installing. Remember (picture) which way the vanes on the old one are facing.

Paul T
 

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.. and be VERY gentle when loosening the screws. The hex bolts will probably be all right, but as I recall, there are some slotted head screws you will need to remove inside. Use the right size sharp screwdriver. (By sharp, I mean one that has NOT been used as a prybar with a rounded tip see this link) DON'T let the screwdriver slip or lift. If it isn't coming, gently tap the screwdriver like you were driving a nail with a punchto loosen the corrosion, spray a bit more PB Blaster, and wait.

They will have salt and corrosion accumulations around the threads. PB Blaster, gentle heat, and time.
 

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Most of the time, this is due to an air leak, which is often due to the pump gasket not properly installed. However, the system could be plugged. You can try flushing it out with flushing muffs and see if water comes out the exhaust and cooling indicator ports.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
 

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Most of the time, this is due to an air leak, which is often due to the pump gasket not properly installed. However, the system could be plugged. You can try flushing it out with flushing muffs and see if water comes out the exhaust and cooling indicator ports.

Good luck,

Gary :cool:
Or on a saw horse with bucket and garden hose.

I understand the move to 4-strokes but the reliability and simplicity of the 2s can't be beat.
Don't even mention the weight differences....
Spare parts needed....will fit in your hand.
 

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I'd bet salt deposits in passages. Per my earlier post, be VERY careful not to strip machine screws. You'll need to start taking things off...

Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk
 
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