If it is trailered you don't need bottom paint as it can be cleaned each time you take it out, but if you leave it in the water you should use a good bottom paint.
Brian
Brian
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Important question about bottom of my sailboat
Hello.
I will use the boat on fresh and cold water, 5 month a year and because the boat is protected with Vinylester, can I use it without water barrier and antifouling paint?
For the algae, I think about scuba diving once a month to clean the hull?
Anybody? Ideas?
I will use the boat on fresh and cold water, 5 month a year and because the boat is protected with Vinylester, can I use it without water barrier and antifouling paint?
For the algae, I think about scuba diving once a month to clean the hull?
Anybody? Ideas?
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
depending on the Vinylester and how well it was done, then yes that should be okay for a barrier coat. as for antifowling dont think cold fresh water will help, because it might buy a few weeks, but then it will get bad fast. on the chessy bay props and shafts get totally covered in as little as a month, and thats on the north end of the bay where it is fresher and colder.
bottom paint does not have to be terribly expensive or too time involved, if you do it right. decent paint at 200 bucks a year, plus one day of work is not a big deal considering how much other work you need to do.
bottom paint does not have to be terribly expensive or too time involved, if you do it right. decent paint at 200 bucks a year, plus one day of work is not a big deal considering how much other work you need to do.
About performance? Antifouling paint look more like sand paper compare to gelcoat?depending on the Vinylester and how well it was done, then yes that should be okay for a barrier coat. as for antifowling dont think cold fresh water will help, because it might buy a few weeks, but then it will get bad fast. on the chessy bay props and shafts get totally covered in as little as a month, and thats on the north end of the bay where it is fresher and colder.
bottom paint does not have to be terribly expensive or too time involved, if you do it right. decent paint at 200 bucks a year, plus one day of work is not a big deal considering how much other work you need to do.
You can definitely go with no paint if you "dry sail" the boat, but you need a boat yard that will put it in and take it out every time you use the boat. There are yards that will do that here on the Chesapeake Bay.
You may be able to go with no paint in fresh water. It really seems to depend on the body of water. Some have very clear water water with very little growth, while others are murky and have considerable growth. You could always try it without paint and see how it goes.
Not all bottom paints are the same. There are plenty of types of racing paint that if sprayed on properly and wet sanded are as smooth as can be. However the paint does add some weight. If you roll on cruising paint it wont be smooth or fast.
You may be able to go with no paint in fresh water. It really seems to depend on the body of water. Some have very clear water water with very little growth, while others are murky and have considerable growth. You could always try it without paint and see how it goes.
Not all bottom paints are the same. There are plenty of types of racing paint that if sprayed on properly and wet sanded are as smooth as can be. However the paint does add some weight. If you roll on cruising paint it wont be smooth or fast.
Actually, the boat will say on water.
About waxing, many coats? Also, cleaning the bottom on scuba diving exit?
About waxing, many coats? Also, cleaning the bottom on scuba diving exit?
Waxing?
Yes, you can clean the bottom with scuba gear.
Yes, you can clean the bottom with scuba gear.
i haven't put on bottom paint since i got the boat in 2003. the PO had painted it 3 years before that. when the boat is hauled in the fall the bottom is cleaned with a hi pressure water & soap spray. this cleans the bottom very well. up here on cold & clear lake superior not much is on the bottom anyway. when i do paint the bottom i will use petit hard racing coper bronze.
Tell us what kind of boat it is, a larger cruiser or a smaller boat.
Brian
Brian
40' Sailboat so it's large for me... I see some people that put wax on bottom and clean every month or so.Tell us what kind of boat it is, a larger cruiser or a smaller boat.
Brian
I think the best solution it's to try wax for the first season and see. If there is to much maintenance, I will consider water barrier and antifouling like VC Offshore or high perfromance antifouling only.
The water barrier should be there regardless. Whatever anitfouling or wax you choose will not stop water from entering the glass substrate. Antifouling only eliminates growth from sticking - it's not a water barrier. If your hull is vinylester I would use a good hard polishable antifouling and scrub regularly as you seem to want to do. Or a good ablative antifouling and haul once every year or two.
Brian
Brian
As far as I understand it, being in fresh water is not necessarily a plus. Maybe the life that grows on a salt water boat is more aggressive than in fresh but that's not the only issue.
I have been told more than once by people who "know about this stuff" that fresh water, being less dense than salt water has a greater tendency to migrate up follicles of glass fibre and create far more serious osmosis bubbles than salt water.
So any boat that has a propensity for osmosis will allegedly suffer far worse in fresh water than in salt water.
Put a barrier coat on, it's not expensive compared to the potential alternative.
I have been told more than once by people who "know about this stuff" that fresh water, being less dense than salt water has a greater tendency to migrate up follicles of glass fibre and create far more serious osmosis bubbles than salt water.
So any boat that has a propensity for osmosis will allegedly suffer far worse in fresh water than in salt water.
Put a barrier coat on, it's not expensive compared to the potential alternative.
Yep, as Oma said. Osmosis can occur due to freshwater (condensation) migrating through the hull until it hits the gel coat.
Even is the boat is already protected with Vinylester?Yep, as Oma said. Osmosis can occur due to freshwater (condensation) migrating through the hull until it hits the gel coat.
On older yachts, condensation (on the inside) could osmotically pass through resin and fibres to hit a wall at the gel coat. If you have had vinylester treatment, then it would have vinylester layer, then primer, then a barrier coat would be on it. Thats the way they do the job out here- check it out anyway. I think an abrative antifouling wont build up and It cannot affect your speed as much as you think.
Its cheaper in both money and time to antifoul it and use it rather than be a slave to cleaning the hull. You would surely find a few ecosystems growing and if it was left a few months, they might joint the ecosystems on the seafloor.
Its cheaper in both money and time to antifoul it and use it rather than be a slave to cleaning the hull. You would surely find a few ecosystems growing and if it was left a few months, they might joint the ecosystems on the seafloor.
Put a barrier coat on it if you plan to get the boat wet. It's too cheap not to do. It's like insurance, protect your investment.
Vivid, VC offshore, baltoplate, are all good hard racing paints that provide some antifouling properties. Plus, they can be burnished to a very smooth finish. Vivid you can get to 400 grit, VC and balto can be burnished to 600 or 800 grit. But it takes many many hours. In fresh water these paints will probably do very well. Where I'm at, Mid chesepeake bay, they require cleaning once a week, or you will have major fouling by week 2.
Vivid, VC offshore, baltoplate, are all good hard racing paints that provide some antifouling properties. Plus, they can be burnished to a very smooth finish. Vivid you can get to 400 grit, VC and balto can be burnished to 600 or 800 grit. But it takes many many hours. In fresh water these paints will probably do very well. Where I'm at, Mid chesepeake bay, they require cleaning once a week, or you will have major fouling by week 2.
Ok Ok, I got the picture, I will put antifouling but probably an inter-protec water barrier in the same time.
Preparing the hull is the big job so putting a water barrier as a primer before antifouling makes sense to me and my boat will be protected against everything except collisions...
Tanks you all for good advice.
Preparing the hull is the big job so putting a water barrier as a primer before antifouling makes sense to me and my boat will be protected against everything except collisions...
Tanks you all for good advice.
Isn't there a paint for that too?...and my boat will be protected against everything except collisions...
You paint a big orange diagonal stripe close to the bow. No one will hit you.Isn't there a paint for that too?
Ya they call it "Steinless Steel"...Isn't there a paint for that too?
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
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