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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently got a Bristol 24. The port side chain plate sat on rotted ply, changed the ply, and glassed twice over on both sides of bulkhead. Sea-cocks/valves will be inspected and checked next month. No other 'major' changes.

The rig seems good. I went over several online DIY checklists. However, I am concerned that there may be rust inside the swage fitting. I could ask for a marine survey, I believe they run about a $100 but there is nothing visual that he/she can pick up on. Local vendors are likely to recommend getting new wires and fittings. About $1200. Neither solution is conclusive. If I do nothing, what are indications to watch out for? Overall, what are my options?
 

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Pick the two most important and replace them now. About $200 total. Next year, a couple more. I'd recommend the upper shrouds or the back stay as prime candidates. Another way is to buy StaLok fittings for about $45 each, depending on the wire rope size. This would allow you to replace the deck fitting (which is the most likely corroded) and maintain the wire rope and mast fitting.

Now, to tempered this post, I sail a 25 footer, no more than a week at a time and never out of range of SeaTow. We might go ten miles out from the Maine coast. I am also on a budget. If I were on a blue water boat, I'd replace the entire thing
 

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were are you getting 1200 quotes for the rigging? like above you can do it yourself or replace a couple at a time...

if your not experienced with theses things have someone who is take a look and recomend what needs attention and replacement first

If you were to take the mast down you can send all your old rigging to a place like riggingonly.com and you get the new stuff back in a week or 2.

Id bet going that route youd spend about 600 at the most for new rigging, and quality work...
 
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Swaged fittings are prone to rust and can cause premature failure of your rig. It is simple physics. The fitting is a cup. The stay or shroud is a conduit or highway. Each time it rains, rain hits the stay or shroud and runs down to the cup created by the swage. It dries, then repeats the process.

I would suggest you replace your stays and shrouds and consider using swaged fittings for the uppers and mechanical fittings like stalok or norseman for the lowers. With a mechanical fitting you can seal out the water with a good caulk and prevent problems in your rigging down the line. Expect to pay a little more for the mechanical fittings. You can save by doing the fittings yourself. Follow the instructions, which are easy to understand, and take your time.

Good luck on the project. Hope this string helped a little.
 

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secosouth in florida...

but there are many places

I did mine the stays I replaced I should add with swage up top and norseman down below...measured twice cut once...

its easy, you can see some pics on my islander 36 thread...

cheers
 

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I just replaced both uppers and the fore and backstays to save a bit on cost I'll do the lowers next year. I had the top swaged and I used Hayn Hi-Mod mechanical fittings on the bottom. I chose Hayn fittings over Norseman or StaLok because they have a castellated crown ring that organizing the wire strands very nicely. I had never done it before, but it was really easy.

For all the fittings and new wire for 4 stays it cost just under 800.

I have a write up on my blog (Magic #16) detailing the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I talked to a surveyor a little while ago. He said, over the phone and without seeing the boat, that the swage fittings would crack if there was rust on the inside due to the expansion from the rust. And, because there are no other signs of wear and tear, no cracks and rust, anywhere else, I am starting to think that I could put off this project and continue on with the million other things that are to be done.
 
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