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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I lucked into a dodger over the weekend. It is the right color, width, height, and never been on a bit so condition is good. The isinglass is messed up from sitting in ice filled dingy but I can replace that. Obviously this was made for a different boat but I think with new snaps or possibly velcro I can anchor the front edge in a way that works . are those my main options? Anyone see another way? What would folks recommend? Snaps are probably stronger but velcro sewn to canvas and glued to fiberglass might give me more flexibility.
 
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You are very likely to use the dodger or parts of it for occasional grabbing onto for stability.. I don't think Velcro will really be up to that part of the task. Snaps would be better overall.

Another way to anchor a front portion is to sew some luff tape along the bottom and install a groove track on deck to accept it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The dodger has several sewn in female parts of the twist connectors. Not sure what those are called. Maybe a combination of the twist connectors and snaps would yield an acceptable and sufficiently strong result.
 

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As a high school teacher of teenager, I call then senders and receivers. When a student suggested I meant male and female, a freshman asked why. I told her to ask her mother. :p
 

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I do some sewing myself, and have built a dodger that came out okay. I think if I were trying to make that fit I would cut it off at the bottom. following the curve of the cabin top, around 4 inches from the cabin top. Then I would design a piece of fabric to match the cabin top that would connect to the bottom of the existing dodger. use common sense fasteners to fasten to the cabin top and then sew it to the bottom of the existing dodger.
 

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When I had a dodger made for my boat 6 years ago I just asked if using velcro rather than zippers was an option. I was told that velcro just didn't hold up.

For attaching the dodger to the cabin and cockpit he used a combination of pull it up and common sense fasteners.

My own experience has been anyplace I've used velcro outside I'm lucky if it lasts 2 years before needing replacement.
 

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Your options are snaps, common sense fasteners, or lift-the-dot fasteners. Velcro won't do it, the prior poster was right. A tight fit is important, also, for looks, to keep water from pooling on it, but also to keep the Strataglass flat for vision clarity.

Another option for notions and advice is Sailmaker's Supply, Sunbrella, Marine Canvas, Fabrics, Hardware and Supplies - Sailmaker's Supply
 

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x2...take a pic send to a canvas or even better a car upholestery shop, why better cause they are much cheaper

I had some work done up in california by a VERY skilled mexican upholester, he did stuff for my boat as well as an old honda cb750...redid seats, foam etc...

try to avoid sail lofts as they will be much more expensive

do yourself a favor and buy scrap sumbrella or dodger canvas as well as some uv resistant thread(nylon)

then with dodger, thread, and scraps say you need this trimmed here and there, reinforced here, made to this shape...show pic

thats all most good canvas or upholester workers need

they have great eyes for detail

I just had my dodger fixed and stitched and reinforced down here

$25 bucks and I have a nice sealed and refitted dodger

cheers
 

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The dodger has several sewn in female parts of the twist connectors. Not sure what those are called. Maybe a combination of the twist connectors and snaps would yield an acceptable and sufficiently strong result.
That's what holds most of my dodger own, with some snaps, too. I don't think velcro would cut it without something else anchoring the main attachment points.

I think I would get the mail side of the oval twist lock connecters and put them in. Those can get in the way when the dodger is off, though. And, I leave mine off in the summer.
 

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For the leading edge that attaches to the cabin top mine has a piece of teak screwed to the cabin top . The leading edge of the teak is angled back to match the angle of the leading edge of the dodger , lift dot pegs are screwed in the teak . Lift dot females are in the dodger .
 

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I would highly recommend against snaps, unless you are sailing in fresh water. They corrode up pretty quickly and become unusable, often tearing out with the pressure necessary to open them. There are Twist Studs that are stronger, never corrode and they cannot open accidentally. The only drawback is you must have the female pieces installed by a canvas person, unless you want to buy a $300.00 tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks all. This confirms velcro as a bad idea. If you look close each key corner has the female/receiver part of a common sense connector so I think I could get away at least for temporary with installing some studs where needed. To show how cheap I can be, i took the dodger home, let it warm up indoors and then with a hairdryer got the strategiesStrataglass supple again. I then cleaned the torn sections carefully and with more heat pulled the tears together nicely and applied clear vinyl tape. Again a temp fix but one that causes the dodger to better hold its shape. This will allow me to go for a tight fit on the boat using the common sense connectors. After that I will get better pics and work with canvas guy during hot summer months. Hope to update with pics unless it looks too ugly. :)
 

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For the leading edge that attaches to the cabin top mine has a piece of teak screwed to the cabin top . The leading edge of the teak is angled back to match the angle of the leading edge of the dodger , lift dot pegs are screwed in the teak . Lift dot females are in the dodger .
This works very well and also helps keep water from running under the dodger in bad weather.
No matter what type of fastener you use monthly lubrication (I use Vaseline) will help the longevity.
 

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It looks like if you moved the stainless frame back a few inches, the curved bottom of the dodger would miss that fixed portlight. I don't know how much you can move it back before it no longer covers the seahood though.
Don't use silicon spray without protecting for overspray (you don't want it on the deck)
 
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