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first sailed january 2008
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have one. On the stern of the boat. I'm going to beef it up a bit.

It is a lewmar sliding bolt track.

How far apart should the bolts be?

Would fender washers be good backing for each bolt?

Do I use sealant along the bottom of the track? If so what kind? It has to be a kind I can get at west marine or a hardware store, no online ordering.

Thanks!
 

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I have one. On the stern of the boat. I'm going to beef it up a bit.

It is a lewmar sliding bolt track.

How far apart should the bolts be?

Would fender washers be good backing for each bolt?

Do I use sealant along the bottom of the track? If so what kind? It has to be a kind I can get at west marine or a hardware store, no online ordering.

Thanks!
Documentation found here https://lewmar.com/products.asp?id=7598&type=48&channel=1

You find the max distance there, I would have reused all the old holes if they are closer.

There is room for a small washer between the track and deck.
Use sealant underneath that washer.
Don't use a permanent sealant - I would have used butyl tape, don't know what is available where you are.

My old track had fender washers and I continued using that as there are not room to fit any larger ones on my boat.
 

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Lewmar's website is terrible. I had much better luck when I found this document:
http://www.lewmar.com/cms/assets/1/Catalogues/Lewmar-English-lr.pdf

Warning: It is their full catalog and could be painful to browse on a phone.

You don't say which Lewmar sliding bolt track you have. Size 0 is max 16" between bolts, size 1 and 2 are about 28". All three of these tracks should be taller than their are wide, if your track is shorter than it is wide I would not go more than 4" between bolts.

Seal the holes with Lifecalk or other polysulfide based sealant. This is common West Marine stuff. It is a lot sloppier to work with than butyl, but easy to find. Don't use 5200 or you'll never get the track off again. You need to use something or rain get down through the bolts into the boat (and if there is core in the way you'll get water in the core). You need sealants at the bolts and through hulls, not along the entire track.

Big fender washers are better than nothing, but not ideal. You can get 1/8" by 2" wide aluminum at a hardware store and drill holes into that as your backing plate. That will spread the loads a lot better than fender washers will.
 

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Do you have a photo of the installation area? Just one from the top would be fine.

Also, your existing traveler has been there for 40+ years and doing just fine. How is it attached? Copying that method should be okay.
 

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The problem with this big plates is the way the track is on top of this raised section, so nothing too big will fit in there.
It is unclear what you are saying here but I just installed this track. I used the existing holes that were 4" apart. The #2 track uses a 10mm bolt which results in a 17mm head, enough to keep from rotating within the track. I used simple 10mm SS washers, which are just thick enough to fit within the recessed area between where the bolt protrudes and the bottom of the track. I recessed each bolt hole slightly with a countersink to allow for a sealant reservoir. I used butyl ribber wrapped around each bolt. No need to add sealant along the track. Hope this helps.
 

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first sailed january 2008
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you have a photo of the installation area? Just one from the top would be fine.

Also, your existing traveler has been there for 40+ years and doing just fine. How is it attached? Copying that method should be okay.
Well that's the problem. This traveller was installed last year. Well thy botched my standing rigging job and first sail the boom flys off putting a lot of strain on the traveller. So I decided to put bolts every six inches so it's really secure.

I'm doing it now but since I hate it I take a lot of breaks.
 
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