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· Asleep at the wheel
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I need to replace the stuffing box hose on my boat. After nearly 9 hours of prying, oiling, heating, banging, and a lot of swearing, I have everything apart. I had to cut the flange or transmission coupling (or whatever it is called, I'm going to call it a flange 'cause that's easier to spell) off the shaft, because it just was NOT coming off any other way. If you want all the gory details, they are in my blog.

Anyway...I now have the new flange, and I'm planning on taking it to be fit and faced to the prop shaft, which I hope will happen this Friday (unless I can find a shop in the Philadelphia, PA area who can do it sooner). Then I get to re-install the shaft in the boat. I can't install the shaft from inside the cabin, the engine is in the way. That means that the flange has to come off again after it is fit and faced to the shaft. Then, when the shaft is back in the boat, I need to reinstall the flange. I assume it's going to be a pretty tight fit, and alignment is going to be tough, too (I will need to match the flange with the holes in the shaft for the set screws). How do I do this inside the engine compartment?

In theory, a block of wood at the propeller end of the shaft and some good hits on a hammer should help drive the shaft into the flange. But what keeps the flange from sliding forward in the boat? I don't want to attach it to the transmission out of fear of damaging the transmission, and I don't remember seeing any other protrusions near the shaft log that I could use to help keep the flange from moving. So, how do I get enough force to be able to do the install?
 

· Asleep at the wheel
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Capta, the bolts that came with the new flange have the holes in them, but thanks for the reminder! Where can I get Never Seize? I've heard of it and a few other compounds, but haven't tried looking for them yet. Would it also work on the outside of the packing gland to help keep the copper from corroding?

I need to test-fit everything and see how hard it is to connect. If its tough, I like Alex's idea and will talk to the prop shop.

Dave, I'm glad the blog posts are helpful for you. I know I probably go into too much detail, but hopefully it gives you some insight into the issues I faced and how I solved them. I can't say what I did was "right", but it worked.

According to Maine Sail (see the first several parts of this description), when you get the flange off, if it has been on more than a year or two, the rust inside the flange actually distorts the inside of the flange. When you then remove it and clean it up, you lose some of the metal from the inside of the flange. The result is that the fit isn't what it should be if you try to reinstall them. So, you are better off replacing the flange rather than trying to reuse it unless the flange is fairly new. When the flange is replaced, the flange should really be matched to the shaft so that the face of the flange is perpendicular to the rotational centerline of the shaft. This reduces vibration as the assembly spins. Each shaft, especially older shafts, is slightly different and thus they really should be matched. That's where the fit and face comes in. Or at least that's my understanding of the process.
 

· Asleep at the wheel
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think you mentioned that in another thread, Alex. It looks like it would basically do what my gear puller did, but with less of a clearance issue than I had.

How did you measure the run-out? Did you mount the shaft on something and spin it? I don't have a dial gauge, so this might be a bit of a moot point. But still, I'd be interested in how you did the measurements. If the whole thing is within spec, that would save me a lot of time and trouble.

I do need to replace the key for mine. Any idea where to get one?
 
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