SailNet Community banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

· no longer reading SailNet
Joined
·
2,309 Posts
Reaction score
599
If I were having the prop shaft pulled and machined I would consider asking for a 5/16" or 3/8" thread down the center of the prop shaft that could be used along with a draw bolt and plate to pull the coupling onto the shaft. In a 1" shaft that would not reduce the strength and it would make installing the coupling a lot easier. On almost any lathe this is a roughly 10-15 minute job.

My boat seems to give me much better access to the prop shaft than yours. I used a split coupling and fought with it a fair amount to get it installed. A nut and draw bolt would have saved a lot of work.
 

· no longer reading SailNet
Joined
·
2,309 Posts
Reaction score
599
I did not get my prop shaft machined. I put on the flange and measured runout using a dial indicator and it was within tolerances, so I left everything alone. Pulling the shaft on my boat requires dropping the rudder, and I wasn't prepared to do that.

I did use a split flange coupling and it was still a very tight fit.

I made my own remover instead of using a gear remover. It was pretty simple and could be made with a hand drill and a 1/4" piece of steel, but is a lot easier to make with a drill press or milling machine (which is what I used). It looks like this:
https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hph...=9abfdf2d5a06a2bda67a0437dfad42c7&oe=53DA96FD

The 4 outer bolts match the bolt pattern of the flange and are through holes on the plate. The inner one is tapped and pushes on the prop shaft to push the flange off. It worked very well. I would be willing to loan this tool to people in Seattle if they don't want to make their own. It is for a Yanmar 4" coupling.
 

· no longer reading SailNet
Joined
·
2,309 Posts
Reaction score
599
I think you mentioned that in another thread, Alex. It looks like it would basically do what my gear puller did, but with less of a clearance issue than I had.

How did you measure the run-out? Did you mount the shaft on something and spin it? I don't have a dial gauge, so this might be a bit of a moot point. But still, I'd be interested in how you did the measurements. If the whole thing is within spec, that would save me a lot of time and trouble.

I do need to replace the key for mine. Any idea where to get one?
Square key stock is a standard hardware store item around here.

I measured runout by clamping a dial indicator holder to some part of my boat (I don't remember what exactly) with the dial indicator against the prop shaft. I turned the shaft by hand to measure. This is how you would also measure runout on something like a drill press chuck.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top