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Hi,
First off I am in PV, Mexico and my wife is in the US and while visiting our daughter, she is also of course picking up some parts so I do not know all the details of the scupper yet.

We want to install two scuppers on our aft decks by our cockpit. Water collects there and this is not good.

There is not a lot of room because of the teak cap rail. Also the stern pulpit. A router or jig saw will not work. I am getting ahead of myself. Debbie and I decided to get two tapered scuppers. We understood you can get a tapered hole saw and drill the hole and put in the scupper flush to the deck. I failed to mention we want them flush to the deck.

The scupper looks to have about a ½ taper.

I will have more info on it soon. Make, OD etc.

We have searched all over but have not found a tapered hole saw. Am I not calling it by the right name?

Thanks,
Chip

This is the tapered scupper to be installed, up-side-down it is shown.


This is the placement of the scupper. Disregard the pipe please.
 

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That would be a counter-sunk or flush fitted scupper. A hole saw would work for the body of the fitting; but you would need a matching angle counter sink bit for the flange. THat might be a tough bit to find anywhere; except perhaps the mfgr of the fitting or a specialty tool supplier. IF it's a standard angle; you *may* be able. to find a matchin. tapered reamer(of sorts) bu. quite a bit biiger that those used for screws. Used to have one for a brace and bit. set that was near 1.5" dia. and had (at least) 8 "vanes"/cuting edges. BTW... I have never heard ttell of a "tapered hole-saw". Uniiversal gradualted bits; but no saw. The bgrad bits would not be enough angle, anyway..
I'd simply match the angle with hand tools/die grinder/dremel and bits. Apparently, you will be permanently affixing it with epoxy? I've had some success with white Marine-Tex to glue/color cracks in gel-coat; so.....
That said; I have a similar problem on my side decks at the cockpit coaming.. I'll probably end. up epoxying in a 'glass tube to the raised deck portion abovethe hull joint. Only six inches of rise available and with both the fitting and tubing, I'd be below the joint

HTH,
Paul
 

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Barquito
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I think I would just carefully file the bevel into the hole. Might need to do this from underneath for the part near the rail. I think the tapered hole saw just means a stepped hole bit. Any hole saw of the right size would work.
 

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Master Mariner
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I believe the tool you are seeking is called a step drill.
I don't quite understand what you are trying to do that a small bit of tube, similar to the one you are holding, won't accomplish.
 

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A step drill won't leave a clean tapered hole.

I would use a router, but make a guide for it that sits above your toe rail so that you can move the base of the router in the circle required. The bit can be extended to be working below the toe rail. It would be a minor pain, but work.

It might be easier to add small drains that go under the toe rail. I put small drains right along the toe rail on my Pearson 28-2 to drain the deck. It has scuppers just like what you are going to install, but they are about 1/2" from the toe rail and water still pools between the scupper and the toe rail. If you look at almost any mid-80s Pearson that hasn't been used in a few weeks you can see a tell tale dirt line from the water not draining there.
 

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One of None
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I'm confused.. you want to go through the deck and out the hull? Why tapered and why that way?

I'd cut the teak toe rail in place. Make a jig out of metal, so you can drill 2 holes spaced a 1/2" or higher from the deck. then use a thin saw blade to cut to the deck and NOT score it, break out the teak with chisels and finish with sandpaper. seal with varnish. good to go and good looking.

Something like this but you don't have to remove them to do the scuppers.
 

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Tapered, no. Beveled, for a flush mount, yes. Someone must make drill bits that will make that bevel, but they won't be hole saws. Hole saws are circular, like half a tin can.

You could get a large spade bit, like this one which is 1-1/2" diameter:



Then have a machine shop grind the contour so it cuts the bevel when fully seated, as it makes the hole. Or just have them grind a similar blade to make the center (i.e. a 1/4" guide hole) and the bevel. Use that, then come back with a plain hole saw with the same size guide bit to make the body of the hole after the bevel was cut in.

If you've got a local machine shop, ask. This is an easy job for them.

$20 job in the boonies, $100 job in major US coastal cities.

Unless you can dig up a source for spade blades that are preshaped to cut bevels.
 

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Cut the hole to the depth required plus a little bit but not all the way thru the deck as if it was not tapered. Remove the glass with a chisel.
Mix epoxy to fill the hole "sides" half way. Put plastic on top of the epoxy and dab Vaseline all over the scupper fitting so it will not stick to the epoxy. Now press the scupper into the hole and it will displace the epoxy up and down the hole - cleanup excess and let it sit until the epoxy cures. Remove the scupper, the plastic, cleanup and permanently install with Sika or similar.
 

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You are going to need a rigid way to hold a drill to have a modified spade bit cut a clean bevel. A hand drill isn't going to do it, it's going to leave behind a big mess.
 

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Barquito
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Cut the hole to the depth required plus a little bit but not all the way thru the deck as if it was not tapered. Remove the glass with a chisel.
Mix epoxy to fill the hole "sides" half way. Put plastic on top of the epoxy and dab Vaseline all over the scupper fitting so it will not stick to the epoxy. Now press the scupper into the hole and it will displace the epoxy up and down the hole - cleanup excess and let it sit until the epoxy cures. Remove the scupper, the plastic, cleanup and permanently install with Sika or similar.
There we go! This is what the OP should do. Simple.
 

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Idea.. Weld or drill and bolt a piece of old spade bit sideways on the 1 1/2 spade bit.(like a fly cutter). Grind/file the profile you need and the finished diameter. Practice on a chunk of wood. Keep your shoelaces clear. (may need to torch heat red hot and plunge in oil to temper.)
 

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Remember you're a womble
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Use a rotary tool with a suitable router bit and guide. Or just use the tool actually designed to do this job properly, a router. Or just put some string from the puddle over the rail and let capillary action do the job without cutting holes in anything. Tip, the last option is the easiest.
 

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It should be mandatory that when the project is completed, the OP comes back with pics and commentary so that we all learn from the endeavour .
 
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