Did anyone find a solid answer to this? Brightside is sandpaper-ready in less than 24 hours, and my presumption would be that, since it is above the waterline, that should be more than enough time. I had an unexpected rain shower hit a coat of white Brightside after only 6 hours, and it was fine- no loss of gloss of adhesion.
Its a question of HOW dry it is and HOW easy it will be to dammage
A full strenth dry can be 2 to 4 weeks based on weather amount of coats ect
Preparation BARE FIBERGLASS: In Good Condition Begin by scrubbing well using soap and water and a stiff brush. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry. Wipe a small area with a clean rag that has been wetted with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. While the surface is still wet, wipe with a clean, dry rag. Continue this process until the entire surface has been cleaned. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. In Poor Condition Clean as above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Apply Brightside Primer.
BARE WOOD: Sand surface, wipe clean. Apply Brightside Primer. Sand surface, wipe clean.
BARE METAL: Sandblast or grind, remove sanding residue. Immediately apply Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 25% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355. Allow to dry for 1-24 hours. Apply one coat of Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414.
CLEAR EPOXY: Clean as for Bare Fiberglass above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Apply one coat of Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414.
PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES: The surface must be clean and dry. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue.
Method Apply 2-3 coats of Brightside following the proper dry times. Sand between coats using 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue with a rag dampened with Brushing Liquid 333. Brightside may be applied by roller and brush using the roll and tip method.
Hints Thinner Brush - Brushing Liquid 333. Spray - Special Thinner 216.
Thinning Thin if necessary with Brushing Liquid 333 to improve brushing characteristics.
Cleaner Bare Fiberglass - Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Epoxy - Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202.
Ventilation and Humidity Control It is best to paint on warm, dry mornings. Cold weather retards the drying and humidity can spoil the gloss.
Airless Spray Pressure: 170 bar/2500 psi. Tip Size: 0.33-0.41 mm/13-16 thou.
Conventional Spray Pressure Pot: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi (gun pressure); 8-10 psi (pot pressure). Tip Size: 0.89-1.4 mm/35-50 thou. Siphon Cup: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi - gun pressure. Tip Size: 1.5-1.8 mm/60-70 thou.
Other Spray pressures listed are recommendations only. The applicator may use any settings which yield the best results for the individual spraying technique and current weather conditions. Brightside is best applied in thin coats.
Some Important Points Do not apply heavy coats as this will affect dry through. Failure to follow proper dry times carefully will cause improper drying, wrinkling and loss of adhesion. Avoid painting in direct sunlight. Product temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 29°C/85°F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 35°C/95°F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10°C/50°F and maximum 29°C/85°F.
Compatibility/Substrates Surface must be dry and clean, and free from grease, detaching paint etc. Be sure to use Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414 over clear epoxy to prevent blush from affecting drying and adhesion of Brightside.
Number of Coats 2 minimum
Coverage (Theoretical) - 550 (ft²/Gal) by brush, 440 (ft²/Gal) by spray
Recommended DFT 1.2 mils dry
Application Methods Airless Spray, Brush, Conventional Spray, Roller - Pressure Pot or Siphon Cup
Anything in the Interlux or any paint instructions thats compleatly correct is just a mistake and i allways tell poeple to do a COMPLEAT test section that has all the COATS
Something as simple as sanding with the wrong grit between coats can screw the job
We have found (using Toplac and Brightside on our home-built dinghy) that there is a significant difference in the durability (resistance to chip/abrasion/etc) when the paint is given a chance to fully cure (not just dry).
After rushing it a few times, we now try to plan our painting for a time when we can leave the dinghy to bake in the sun for a week or two after the final coat. This seems to be consistent with the advice Tommays offered above.
By the way, I really prefer the Toplac. It's more expensive, but definitely produces better results and the paint seems more durable than the Brightside when given a chance to cure.