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That isn't a lot of water.
That doesn't look like a great setup for a through-hull, but I acknowledge that a lot of manufacturers do this kind of stuff.

I take offense to the "dusty bilge." My bilge is NEVER dry. Lots of reasons for it of course, one is I have a keel stepped mast, and water always comes down the mast into the bilge. My refridge frequently condenses and drips into the bilge, and frankly my shaft for my inboard is not "dripless," so when it runs, we got drips. Its why I rely on a good bilge pump, and frankly a clean bilge. If the pump were to not work, it'd take weeks to produce enough water to "fill" the bilge, but still its never dusty-dry.

If you are paranoid about it, and wanna avoid haul-out, yeah I'd use the flex-seal paste around it... when you haul next, pull that crazy thing off, and use a proper G10 backing plate, and seal it in place proper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
That looks like a plastic fitting. Is it possible it's got a crack?
Not plastic, its bronze. I had sprayed the nut on the thru hull with PB Blaster in an attempt to free the nut in order to tighten it. The PB Blaster has a sheen to it which I think is what lead you to the plastic conclusion.
 

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When on the hard next....On backing plates. G10 as suggested on this thread is ok but a bit overkill IMO. Several things to be aware: The curvature of hull where the backing plate sits on the inside: When you do replace it, you may want to fair this out with an epoxy/glass fiber/phenolic filler mix so it is flat for the area that backing plate will sit. I have prefer to use a good marine grade plywood that is cut round to about 1/2 to 1" larger than the nut, and (here is important part) before installation, completely soaking the plywook on both sizes with epoxy. Once cured, the entire plywood piece will be water proof. The next issue is to use a good below the waterline polysulfide sealant like 3m 4200. Never use 3m 5200 because it is hard to remove for later rebedding. I generally apply this only from the outside. It is important that someone holds the outside from turning while someone on the inside tightens down on the backing nut. This procedure will keep the sealant from getting "thinned" away if it turns.
 

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I'm late to the game and it sounds like the hot glue was attempted already. I'm curious to hear how that goes. Even with very small amounts of water, hydraulic pressure is amazing and I suspect will work efficiently to push off any surface sealant, given time. As another pointed out, the exterior mushroom fitting itself must have lost it's seal somehow, as the wooden backer is not for sealing, just mounting. Trying to make the wood waterproof isn't really addressing the problem. It's possible that tightening the nut would set the original seal better.

I understand the OP is only looking for a temporary (one season?) fix and plans to do this right later. As a caution, I find that shortcuts often add more cost down the road than they save now. The issue either gets worse and causes more damage or it takes more work to clean up the sloppy repair. Most of my big problems started as a small one that I either ignored or didn't understand.

If I was at sea or had no option to haul, I'd patch it up and deal with it. Otherwise, this is a short haul overnight thing. Haul at the end of the day, stay in the slings. Fix it after hours and sealant dries over night. Back in first thing in am. The bottom paint should not be greatly impacted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Its been, what?, 2 days since my last report. I went to the boat this evening and found (drum roll please)..... that there is no water at the thru hull. Looks like the hot glue did the trick for now but the plates will get changed.
 
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Great to hear you stopped the leak. Don't take it for granted and monitor closely. You understand you only patched the symptom, you didn't fix the problem.
 

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Just not as fun as Flex Seal.
 

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Its been, what?, 2 days since my last report. I went to the boat this evening and found (drum roll please)..... that there is no water at the thru hull. Looks like the hot glue did the trick for now but the plates will get changed.
Thats great news! Well played.
 
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