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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
The marina replaced the Cutlass bearing and replaced the hose and stuff box packing. The aligning of the shaft to engine..I think I got it right. I had to place a couple of shims on the aft port side and I think aft starboard side of the engine. When it was all said and done I could pull the prop shaft right up and bolt it up. Does this sound like it was done correctly?

The head sink I was curious about as it looked like a piece of the fiberglass was kinda broke/missing a few inches off the bottom of the standpipe but it seems to of been painted like so. Is there any way to test said pipes for water readiness?

The cabin top in the head is some what dished in and has created some cracks in the liner. I actually have a 12"x12" sheet of 1/2" G10 that I used to cut my seacock backing plate out of. Now the compression post, the bottom of the post (I'm guessing where the original wedge is appears to be glassed in) what do I do to get it out? Any idea the size of wedge? Is the boat safe to sail with the post in this shape till I can fix it?

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Typically, the way to check for proper shaft alignment is to stick a feeler gauge in around the shaft coupling. I'd ask on the Moyer Marine forum. They can tell you the maximum allowed values and exactly where to stick the feeler gauge.

You can eyeball for gross misalignment by having someone spin the shaft by hand at the propeller and putting a caliper on the shaft. If the shaft touches or bounces off the caliper while it rotates, something is not kosher. The shaft is either not true, or not well aligned. The caliper must be attached to something and "static" obviously. Holding it by hand will not work.

Pictures are blocked here at work (hey, I'm programming routers while I chat here). "Dishing" inside the cabin is not always a symptom of a sinking compression post. The overhead cabin liners are not perfect and they warp and move around over the years. Look at the exterior cabin top around the base of the mast. If it is dishing downward there, then you have a problem. If not, you have a little while to fix things.

Size of the wedge? Dude, these old boats were built by hand and they are all special, little snowflakes. My advice is to use cardboard or a very soft wood to create some "test shims" and then model your G10 shim based on the results of fitting the test shims.
 

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Yep, that's just a plug. The idea is to leave the plug in when you are not sailing, so that the sensor doesn't get clogged up with barnacles and hard growth (which will prevent it from spinning/working).
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Okay, I'll check with Moyer Marine to check for proper alignment.

I don't remember seeing the top deck dished in, just remember seeing cracks in headliner and the head door not lining up with the lock. So I had just expected the compression post had sunk, I'll investigate more this weekend.

I love special little snowflakes I guess.

The hull to deck flange is separated in a couple of spots and the hull is about flush with the deck edge. Is this possible or feasible to fix?

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Discussion Starter #45
Okay, the knotmeter is made by SR Mariner.

Is the mast supposed to have bolts in these 4 bottom holes? It appears the bolt heads are missing. Here is a picture also of the area around the mast, it doesn't appear dished to me.


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Rockhopper - I believe I own your old Pearson. I was browsing posts on compression post repair when I came across your posts. I recognized the gray primer on the decks and some of the cracks you posted photos of. I have to assume you gave up on her? Any insights you can give me into this boat would be greatly appreciated. I have high hopes of repairing/restoring and sailing her. It appear to me that absolutely everything on this boat needs work. The Atomic 4 seems to run well anyway.

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Rockhopper - I believe I own your old Pearson. I was browsing posts on compression post repair when I came across your posts. I recognized the gray primer on the decks and some of the cracks you posted photos of. I have to assume you gave up on her? Any insights you can give me into this boat would be greatly appreciated. I have high hopes of repairing/restoring and sailing her. It appear to me that absolutely everything on this boat needs work. The Atomic 4 seems to run well anyway.

Thanks in advance
Yes, I ran out of time for Luft Tanz. Living almost 4 hours one way from her put a huge damper on repairs. I had grand plans to fix her up but between travel time, family and work I knew I just needed to let her go. There was still a good bit of work she needed but I can tell you from 1st hand experience she was a sound boat. We motored her across the Neuse River on a cold November night with winds gusting close to 30mph. The Atomic4 had just been rebuilt before I purchased it, had installed a FWC kit, replaced almost all the hoses, repaired the guage cluster so it all worked. Looking back on it now I should have learned fiberglass so I could of fixed issues like the rotten balsa core and the cracked hull to deck flange first. Feel free to ask me anything about the boat and I'll try to fill you in on anything I may know.
 

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I am so glad to have connected with you. The story of how I acquired LT is an interesting one that I look forward to sharing with you.

Were you ever able to check the driveshaft alignment?

You mention that the gauge cluster was repaired but that speed sensor does not appear to me to be complete (this is forward about 4 feet back from the bow slightly to STBD near the center line of the hull (right?). The guy I bought her from told me that none of the gauges worked. It would be a nice surprise to find that some of them do

Did you ever sail her? I have not yet pulled the sails out of the bags but there appears to be a 150% genoa and the main is bent & under a blue sail cover. Did the used sail you bought work out O.K.? There is at least one more sail in a bag that I have not yet identified.

I obviously bought her with no survey (a survey would have cost half what I paid for her). I also bought her sight unseen from over 1100 miles away.

To be honest I have a million questions. These will suffice for now & I greatly appreciate your willingness to share info. I am in the process of moving aboard L.T. from an island in Lake Huron in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. I am very aware that L.T. needs a LOT of work but am very committed to seeing it through.

Thanks again!
 

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Oh one more quick one (for now) - do you know what the gray (primer?) paint on the decks might be? I have been trying to figure whether to sand it off or just prime over it. Refinishing the decks i a ways off as I have a ton of fiberglass work and balsa core rot to fix but sanding & prepping will be done in spurts over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I do believe the prop-shaft was aligned properly, don't hold me to that but I tried to the best of my ability to shim the engine mount so that the engine lined up with the prop-shaft. Perhaps I misspoke, the engine gauge cluster works I installed a new temperature sensor and had the temp, oil and the amp gauge running. The speed sensor may work, I honestly never put it in to test it, it just has the plug in it. I thought the depth gauge worked as well.

Regarding the sails, when I bought L.T. from a guy that lived right there in Beufort he told me a crock of you know what. I had found out the main sail was from a S2 I think it was. I had purchased the used sail from Minnies I think, I had included everything needed with the exception of the sail slides I had purchased I believe were either too small or too large. The sails were a 100% jib, and a 130 genoa.

Here is my original description from when I sold it with a little information on L.T.
"1973 Pearson 30 for sale $3500 OBO or willing to trade for jet skis. All engine gauges work correctly. Atomic 4 inboard engine is in excellent condition, just installed a fresh water cooling kit a $775 value from Moyer Marine https://moyermarine.com/product/mmi-fresh-water-cooling-kit-cfwk_01_264/ Also has a Indigo Electronic ignition $250 value Electronic Ignition--Now available in a Complete Do-It-Yourself Retrofit Kit and has Moyer Marine's Service and Overhaul manual $47 value https://moyermarine.com/product/service-and-overhaul-manual/ . Just had the boat pulled out of the water as it does need some fiberglass work. The cockpit area, stanchions, bow and port side needs some fiberglass work done. I honestly purchased this boat with the intentions of fixing it up but the boat is almost 4 hours away from me one way so I don't have the time to drive down each weekend to fix it with my family. I've replaced almost all of the hoses and hose clamps with 100% stainless steel ABA hose clamps. Has a new main sail cover, 100% jib, 130 genoa and a main sail that comes with the sail slides. Exhaust motor on boat works but also comes with a brand new exhaust motor. Boat comes with a 5K window A/C should you want to stay cool while docked. Registration is good until 2020."

I never did sail her, I spent my time working on getting the engine going for my wife and two girls. The plan was to fix the fiberglass on the weekends while they went to the beach but I never made it that far. Driving down each weekend soon got old.

I'm not sure what the 2nd owner before me put on the deck, I would probably just prime over it. From the story I got a guy in Chapel Hill owned the boat, a hurricane damaged the boat and he gave it to Boat Angel, they supposedly put it up on eBay and misrepresented the boat and the guy I bought L.T. from got her free. When I tried to sell L.T. about a year later he emailed me telling me this and that I should put it on eBay and "not mention" the fiberglass work which would be misrepresenting again. I made mention about how that was how he got the boat in the first place for free and I never heard from him again.

I ended up taking a huge loss selling her for $1500 to a guy that was moving down from Canada I think his name was Daryl. This boat was a huge learning experience for me considering I motored it across the Neuse to Oriental on a cold windy night and had no clue about the water markers. All of which I look back on and should of learned. I am interested in learning how you came to purchase LT.

Also I'm not sure if the P.O. also told you that the shift linkage block on the back side of the engine needed to be resecured, it had come loose and caused me to think I had lost my prop.
 

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I have to post 14 more times on SailNet before I can private message - I'd like to share my acquisition story privately - nothing shady just T.M.I. for this forum. Find me on FB by searching chris taylor drummond island and I'll reply with it.

I paid 3K for her. She came with a fiberglass sailing dinghy with an old 6 horse Johnson on it - I promptly sold both for a song as they were a liability at the municipal marina where she is moored.

I was not aware of the shift linkage issue - thanks for that - I will inspect it as soon as I get back to her.

If I understand you correctly you did eventually find the correct sail slides and they are probably on the sail that is currently on her? I know there is a bag of sail slides that came with her.

I have seen a lot of "scrap her and buy one in sailing condition" advice but I am already past that point and am committed to getting her back in good sailing order.

Again I really appreciate your willingness to share information. I consider it a boon & expect it will help speed a few things along.
 

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I have 3 questions for you now that I am back on board.

Do you remember/know what bottom paint was used when you did it? Thi is helpful so I can use a compatible paint.

What is the fuel tank capacity and did you clean the tank when you did the engine swap?

Was the port aft quarter damaged when you had her? Maybe this happened after - some very shoddy repair work has been done and I am trying to figure out how bad the damage under the repair was.

I actually sailed Luft Tanz last Wednesday in light airs. She did well despite a totally wrong mainsail.

Look forward to getting back in touch with you - Thanks
 

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It's cool to see previous owners connect like this, and kind of fun to see the story of how the boat gets moved along.
 

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These are some early shots of the new progress on Luft Tanz. I have been removing deck hardware and too many globs of silicone that most recent P.O. (not Rockhopper) used to seal pretty much every deck fitting and window. The old wire wheel on the drill has been my best friend for silicone removal. It takes 99% of it off and acetone makes sure there is no residue left behind. This is in prep for some epoxy injection in numerous soft spots and a pretty massive core removal & replacement job in the cockpit (roughly 18" by 30). There is also a significant hull-to-deck flange repair in the works.

I have decided to delete stanchions and lifelines all together as they are more of a hazard than safety feature. I will use jacklines for safety on deck as most of my sailing will be solo.
 

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I used to own a 1974 P30 about 8 years ago. There has not been a response to your question about the grey primer on the decks. If you are referring to the swirls of color on the non skid, that is not primer. It is what is left of the outer layer of the gelcoat in that area. In the early '70's Pearson had an issue with thier mold release when laying up the decks. Several of the P30's from that era exhibit this pattern. Not a big deal. Just cosmetic. When it comes time to paint the decks you will need to put actual primer over them.

Once you get her finished, you will really enjoy sailing her. The P30 is a great boat. I sorely miss mine.
 

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The chain plates may look ok on one side but can be a total disaster on the side against the fiberglass. Remove them, inspect them and if they are original consider replacing them. They are cheaper than a new mast.
 
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