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· Closet Powerboater
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That crimp on the lower one is scary. I've seen several of those pop out. My old boomvang is somewhere at the bottom of SF Bay thanks to one of those.
My first boat's (31ft 10,000lb wooden sloop) standing rigging used those nicopress fittings, with 1x19 wire BENT around a regular sized thimble. That boat had 2 sleeves on each end "for good measure".

There was a lot about that boat that was just plain wrong, including how the keel was supported which resulted in me cracking the hull. It's amazing it held up as well as it did considering all that was not right with it.....

MedSailor
 

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That seems to be pretty standard rigging practice today. Snicker!! A few minutes with a fid on 7x 19 and a neat serving over is so easy .Even a molly hogan would be better than shown. The lashing can be plain or fancy ,of less importance.
 

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Hi-tech lines do not develop their rated strength when they turn around a small pin. May be appropriate to use a thimble. However the multiple passes of the smaller line may compensate...

The eye-bolt thru the stanchion does not look proper. Looks weak - cobbled together. The nut should be secured.

That crude swage is ... crude. That style is for the electric utility companies, not yachties.

I'd ditch the wire for Spectra.
 

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While we are on the subject of lifelines, what size of line are people using for the actual lifelines made out of dyneema, amsteel etc?
 

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While we are on the subject of lifelines, what size of line are people using for the actual lifelines made out of dyneema, amsteel etc?
I ignored the minimums and use the largest size I could fit thru the lifeline grommets of my boat. I think it was 1/4" but it may have been 5/16 or 3/8. It is an intersting issue since the chaff guards add a lot more chaff resistance than upsizing the line, but the extra line size adds a lot of safety margin. For my cruising boat I went with the largest size possible. For a race boat I would probably go with dyneema chaff guards on the minimum size line, for a cruiser the largest size that would fit.
 

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Hi-tech lines do not develop their rated strength when they turn around a small pin. May be appropriate to use a thimble. However the multiple passes of the smaller line may compensate...

The eye-bolt thru the stanchion does not look proper. Looks weak - cobbled together. The nut should be secured.

That crude swage is ... crude. That style is for the electric utility companies, not yachties.

I'd ditch the wire for Spectra.
Not true for Amsteel. Check the Samson web site. It develops 50% at a 1:1 diameter, and in a loop termination, each leg carries only 50%. This is true because the Ansteel flattens out under load, like webbing, and because the fibers are very slippery (better at adjusting and sharing the load). I have also done a lot of break testing--the samples do not break on a 1:1 pin. Interlocked eyes, for example, do not create a weak spot.

What you say is true of Kevlar and PBO, but not HMPE. Completely different animal.

As for the eye bolt not looking proper, I assume and hope that everyone here knows that the pulpit will collapse around 1000 pounds. We just hope that it does that by bending rather than pulling out of the deck. Can anyone image either of those pulpits, rotated 90 degrees, serving as a crane that could lift 5000 pounds?

We should be looking at basic durability and not the last ounce of strength. It is chafe, corrosion and fatigue that we should fear, since those are the only possible failure points. It won't be the eye bolt or lack of thimble (in my testing with Amsteel virtually NO properly sized thimble can withstand full load without major distortion (the stuff is strong as steel, remember?) and often in failure, they actually present a cutting risk as the ends poke out. Just sayin' that conventional wisdom and century old tradition don't hold with Amsteel.

ISAF has suspended some of the HMPE approvals, and it was not over strength. Read up and decide whether it applies to you. Chafe and burn-though.
 

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I ignored the minimums and use the largest size I could fit thru the lifeline grommets of my boat. I think it was 1/4" but it may have been 5/16 or 3/8. It is an intersting issue since the chaff guards add a lot more chaff resistance than upsizing the line, but the extra line size adds a lot of safety margin. For my cruising boat I went with the largest size possible. For a race boat I would probably go with dyneema chaff guards on the minimum size line, for a cruiser the largest size that would fit.
Excellent post by Stumble ....
I would also bell-mouth chamfer and polish each and all (inside the) 'bore holes' in the stanchions that the polymer line passes through. 320, etc. sand paper on a "Dremel tool" is the 'fastest way' to do this to remove all the sharp edges, etc. that cause chafe and can 'cut' into the polymer during 'severe strain' events.
Make that 'bell mouth' chamfer as large as possible.
 

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Large hi tech 2.7 million dollar cat moored in front of me with all hi tech life lines. Skipper showed me how they were eating/chafing through the stanchions, which are also made of carbon fiber, seems some of the stanchions were not chamfered properly as RichH describes above. This cat was hit by lighting a month or so ago in Phuket, The ultrasound dude coming later today to inspect the 500K mast for damage....
 
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