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s/v Tiger Lily
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Discussion Starter #1
I have an old Bromar hatch (original 1979) in my main cabin that leaks when we get any significant rain. I'm positive because I find a puddle of water on our cabin table and it's the only thing above it and I've seen a drop of water hanging off the rim of the hatch.

I've inspected the hatch in dry weather only, but I can't see any breeches in the exterior seal or glazing. I'd like to find the location of the leak ... or should I just jam some silicone or butyl in all the joints for now? I'm sure we'll be replacing these hatches in the future, but I'd like to put that off if possible.
 

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Can you find replacement gaskets? The next step is to try to determine if it's leaking a) through the gasket seal, b) through the lens/frame interface, or c) under the flange/deck connection. This can be tough to ascertain, but redoing the gasketing is a good place to start. On a previous boat with aluminum Bomars we really had to cinch down the latches to minimize leakage.. the gaskets were getting old and compressed.
 
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Pulling a hatch is not that much work I have a friend that did his (3) in an afternoon at a raftup - and if you have any coring at all you are better off doing it sooner rather than later when it's the whole deck you'll be doing.
 

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I actually just redid my main hatch. It took 2-3 hours to get it and the spacer off, cleaned and back on. I was leaking mainly between the teak spacer and the deck it appeared. I rebed everything with butyl.

Another helpful strategy is to get out to the boat in the rain. Like many people I tend to avoid going to the boat in the rain and haven't been distance cruising. So while the boat is still out of the water I made a point to go down in the pouring rain and shine a flashlight on everything from the inside. It was really helpful (I knew the hatch was leaking, but never would have guessed it was coming in between the teak and the deck).

Otherwise I'm definitely a big fan of the "stuff butyl in" it strategy. I was going around at the end of last season with butyl on a number of things and starting this season with a couple more. It holds up to weather no problem.
 

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s/v Tiger Lily
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Discussion Starter #5
It's crazy. I live in Annapolis which is supposed to be this boating mecca. No one sells the right kind of marine grade butyl tape. I guess I'm going to have to buy it online.
 

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It's crazy. I live in Annapolis which is supposed to be this boating mecca. No one sells the right kind of marine grade butyl tape. I guess I'm going to have to buy it online.
Buy it from Mainesail/Compass marine... that's the good stuff.
 
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What's the difference between marine grade butyl and the stuff you can get at Home Depot for sealing windows, doors, etc.?
 

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What's the difference between marine grade butyl and the stuff you can get at Home Depot for sealing windows, doors, etc.?
Butyl tape is basically a generic term, like Epoxy or Silicon sealant. There are millions of formulations of each (almost literally).

The stuff MaineSail sells is the ideal formulation (very flexible, very sticky) and shape (flat) for use bedding marine hardware.

I tried two other types before buying from Mainsail here on sailnet (see the butyl tape thread) and both were not quite right. Not nearly as sticky or flexible. For $30 bucks you can get the best stuff, I suggest doing it.
 

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If you use butyl (you can also get it at rv shops) I would put some on the outside of the hatch as well, as if you only block the inside water may still be getting inbetween and could get h20 in the deck. I used it as a temp fix until I replaced them and it worked pretty well.
 
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s/v Tiger Lily
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Discussion Starter #10
I bought it from Maine Sail/Compass.

Yeah, I have some similar stuff that I've used for window work awhile ago ... but it does not look or behave like the one in MaineSail's butyl how-to (which is awesome by the way).

I'm going to butyl the outside at the deck surface and see if that is good temporary fix. The upper gasket seal looks tight to me, but you never know.
 

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Which Bomar hatch do you have? I have an old one with a metal frame and a plexi lens over my v-berth on my P-30, and when I first bought the boat it would flood the v-berth when it rained. I did the hose test on a dry day...have a dockmate hold the hose while I went below to check for ingress. For me, the water was coming in between the plexi and the frame. I spent a few hours one afternoon and removed the old silicone that was holding the lens in place, removed and cleaned the lens and the frame and used 3M 4000 in black inside and out. No leak since...not even last night with all the rain we had. If you haven't done so yet, have someone stand topside and run a hose over the hatch and observe where the water is entering.
 

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s/v Tiger Lily
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Discussion Starter #12
So, I took advantage of a heavy rain to see from where the leak orignated on this hatch. I can tell from the weeping water that it is actually the glazing around the lens/glass, not the gasket seal.

Would the next step to be to completely cut out the glazing (seems like a silicone caulk) and then re-glaze? I'm looking on the web now for some how-to demos.

You can see from this photo (if you look closely) that the caulking is compromised around the corner.

 

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s/v Tiger Lily
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Discussion Starter #13
Which Bomar hatch do you have? I have an old one with a metal frame and a plexi lens over my v-berth on my P-30, and when I first bought the boat it would flood the v-berth when it rained. I did the hose test on a dry day...have a dockmate hold the hose while I went below to check for ingress. For me, the water was coming in between the plexi and the frame. I spent a few hours one afternoon and removed the old silicone that was holding the lens in place, removed and cleaned the lens and the frame and used 3M 4000 in black inside and out. No leak since...not even last night with all the rain we had. If you haven't done so yet, have someone stand topside and run a hose over the hatch and observe where the water is entering.
Sorry, Tardis ... I didn't see your post at first. I have the Bomar High Profile hatch, Bomar is currently selling a 2000 series that looks pretty similar even 34 years later. Yup, I think that sounds like what I have to do as well. Were you able to lift out the lens simply by digging out the caulk from the outside?
 

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Sorry, Tardis ... I didn't see your post at first. I have the Bomar High Profile hatch, Bomar is currently selling a 2000 series that looks pretty similar even 34 years later. Yup, I think that sounds like what I have to do as well. Were you able to lift out the lens simply by digging out the caulk from the outside?
Yes, I was able to completely remove the lens. Head over to this link: Red Lady's New Ride - Cruising Anarchy - Sailing Anarchy Forums

I documented the entire process. You should find it on the first page of the thread toward the bottomw. I hope that is helpful!

Jess
 

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Regarding using DC795 sealant (caulk) for sealing the windows. In my previous career I ran a global pilot plant for the sealants business at Dow Corning for about 12 years, and made tons of Silicone and Acrylic Sealants. DC sealants are also bought by DAP and numerous other suppliers and packaged under their own brand names. The key to this working is that it is an "acrylic" sealant with anti-fungal agents.

Almost any acrylic sealant will work however you MUST make sure it is for use in wet areas. Most are labeled as anti-fungal (mold resistant) but any bathroom acrylic will work. Most aquarium manufacturers use the clear acrylic version to seal theirs. You can easily tell if it is acrylic by smelling it, yup - just smell it. If it has a very strong "vinegary" smell then you have the right stuff.

A little late to help the OP out but figured I put this out there as well as offer my assistance for any future questions regarding sealants.

Edited to add that the best acrylic type sealants use an "Acetoxy" curing agent for their strength.
 
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