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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
<long time listener, first time caller here>

I made the mistake of plugging an electric heater that draws 950 watts (pic attached) and now my outlets aren't functioning under 110V power. I'm very green with electrical and hoping someone can provide some guidance.

I've reset the GFCI on both outlets that have the button. None of the outlets on the boat work, whether I am connected to shore power or running the engine. I've attached a pic of the inside of the breaker panel. Not sure if there's something I need to replace?

That said, I see two signs that seem to indicate it's not a systemic issue with the 110V system:

1) The battery charger has been working fine (as far as I can tell, have had no issues)
2) When I flip on the water heater, the amps on the gauge (pic attached) do jump up to ~10 amps.

If I'm missing any details that would be helpful to know, just let me know.

Thanks!
j0llygreen
:)
 

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From your description should be either the circuit breaker labeled "outlets" or the first GFCI outlet in your wiring, try resetting both.
BTW running the engine only charges batteries at 12 volts, no connection to 110 system unless an inverter is involved.
 

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<long time listener, first time caller here>

I made the mistake of plugging an electric heater that draws 950 watts (pic attached) and now my outlets aren't functioning under 110V power. I'm very green with electrical and hoping someone can provide some guidance.

I've reset the GFCI on both outlets that have the button. None of the outlets on the boat work, whether I am connected to shore power or running the engine. I've attached a pic of the inside of the breaker panel. Not sure if there's something I need to replace?

That said, I see two signs that seem to indicate it's not a systemic issue with the 110V system:

1) The battery charger has been working fine (as far as I can tell, have had no issues)
2) When I flip on the water heater, the amps on the gauge (pic attached) do jump up to ~10 amps.

If I'm missing any details that would be helpful to know, just let me know.

Thanks!
j0llygreen
:)
Look for another GFCI. When they are wired in series, if one trips, none of them work.. My house is like that, I had to look all over to find the GFCI that we didn't know about tripped in the garage...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From your description should be either the circuit breaker labeled "outlets" or the first GFCI outlet in your wiring, try resetting both.
BTW running the engine only charges batteries at 12 volts, no connection to 110 system unless an inverter is involved.
Thanks for your response and sorry for the dumb question, but when you say 'reset the breaker', I'm assuming that's not turning off/on on the panel itself. Is there a way to reset it from the back?
 

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There should be a breaker on the A/C side of your electrical panel labelled "outlets". It would be near the stove and whatever else runs on household current, not something like bilge pump, running (nav) lights or such. They are two entirely different systems and have separate panels within your main breaker panel.
 
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Thanks for your response and sorry for the dumb question, but when you say 'reset the breaker', I'm assuming that's not turning off/on on the panel itself. Is there a way to reset it from the back?
Yeah, just turn them off and back on, those aren't really switches they are breakers the white ones are 110 vac and the red ones are 12 vdc. Since you indicate that the charger and other 110 volt circuits are working the failure should be restricted to the "outlets" circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, I figured those were the breaker switches. I've toggled between on/off multiple times with no luck. Per another suggestion I'll see if there's another strangely hidden GFCI switch but it's unlikely.

If not, does anyone else have another suggestion/troubleshooting tip?
 

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try the GFCI again some brands take a bit of force to reset. I had on that we though we were reseting but it was not and had to push the button in harder with the tip of a small screw driver
 

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There are a range of possibilities here, you may need to track the system to find them. Here are my thoughts:
1) Starting from the power connection make sure the cable is properly connected at the dock and the boat. It is possible that you may be missing one leg of a three-phase service.
2) Depending on when your boat was built, or the electrical system was updated last, there is supposed to be a master cut off switch within a wire length of 6 feet from the point that power enters the boat. This is usually a breaker or fuse. In my case this breaker is physically located in a lazarette a couple feet from the power connection but the actual cut off switch that turns it on and off is on the the other side of the bulkhead at the foot of the quarter berth.
3) Often boats will have a polarity sensor and in recent years, these include a cut off when the polarity is reveresed. While a 110 volt hot water heater might not be expected to have a polarity, if wired with reverse polarity it could trip the polarity sensor.
4) One or more of the breakers are bad.
5) Since none of the breakers are labeled 'house', 'receptacles', or 'outlet', it is possible that there is a sub-panel somewhere for the receptacles. It is also possible that the breakers labeled 'spare' are for the receptacles, in which case those are currently turned off.
6)Wired properly, it is unlikely that the ground fault receptacles are daisy-chained in the same way that they are in homes so one blown ground fault is not likely to impact another receptable.

Jeff
 

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Given that all your other A/C circuits are working there is a good chance that the circuit breaker is not resetting.

Assuming you are comfortable using a volt meter your next step should be to check the breaker. Open up your panel and check voltage between the load and the line terminal of your "outlets" breaker. If you are not comfortable testing it with the power on, you can also check it with the power off.

For a live circuit you should read near zero volts with the switch on, and you should read 110v with the switch off when measuring across the breaker.

With the power off, switch your meter to Ohms or continuity. You should read "O/L" or "open" with the switch off, and very low resistance, eg 0.2ohms with the switch on.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 

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Look for another GFCI. When they are wired in series, if one trips, none of them work.. My house is like that, I had to look all over to find the GFCI that we didn't know about tripped in the garage...
Is there another outlet in the head possibly? That one should be GCFI if it exists.
 

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How do you know none of the outlets work, after you've recycled the breaker? Are you plugging in the same electric heater? Could it be the heater that doesn't work, or perhaps tripped it's own safety?
 

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Any solu
<long time listener, first time caller here>

I made the mistake of plugging an electric heater that draws 950 watts (pic attached) and now my outlets aren't functioning under 110V power. I'm very green with electrical and hoping someone can provide some guidance.

I've reset the GFCI on both outlets that have the button. None of the outlets on the boat work, whether I am connected to shore power or running the engine. I've attached a pic of the inside of the breaker panel. Not sure if there's something I need to replace?

That said, I see two signs that seem to indicate it's not a systemic issue with the 110V system:

1) The battery charger has been working fine (as far as I can tell, have had no issues)
2) When I flip on the water heater, the amps on the gauge (pic attached) do jump up to ~10 amps.

If I'm missing any details that would be helpful to know, just let me know.

Thanks!
j0llygreen
:)
did you ever get a solution? The Outlets on the port side of our boat aren’t working but the starboard side do. Curious what everyone thinks or if there’s a solution?
 
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