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The only thing I found that worked well was Avon Skin So Soft. I even wiped it on the screens and they never got more than a few inches from it before turning away.

Gary :cool:
 

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Any one building a wood stove is welcome to this door.'the hardest part to fabricate. Black cast iron 19" x 12" I used the glass so you're on your own there . Standard size and available $$ Heavy, so local would be good. I usually find gold-plate /glass in scrap but this was too good to leave and I needed the glass anyway.
 

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Fie proof glass, altho expensive at $65 a sq ft ,is cheap in the size normally used in a door.
 

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My front portlights were in desperate need of replacement and this year I finally made them a priority by removing them in the fall (not hard, they fell apart in peices).

Prepared to spend $150-$300 each I set out to find new ones. Unfortunately none of the sizes quite lined up, and if they did, there was something else I didn't like. Going up in size was pretty much impossible given the constraints and going down in size meant time consuming fiberglass work.

On a whim I googled online machine shop and came across eMachineShop.com. They give out a free 3D CAD program which is tied right into their process. You get a quote instantly. Within less than an hour I had a draft design that quoted at $160 total for two new portlights in 6061 (4 oval frames). I wanted countersunk holes (~$40) and rounded edges (~$200 extra) and would have loved stainless ($400+) but skipped those to keep the cost down.

From eMachineShop's software:


The raw part about to get countersunk


I used a regular wood router table and a 1/8" round-over on the outside edges. It wasn't smooth but it worked. I skipped the inside edges (my ryobi bit was pretty much dead) but hit the whole thing with a wire wheel and sandpaper.


After Rustoleum pro aluminum primer, 3 coats of paint and the install. It turns out that all those holes that were easy to add in the software turn into screws that need to be installed one-by-one in real life. Damn why did I put so many.


I also removed, painted and rebedded the rear portlights. Though they didn't need replacement.


All in all it cost about $100 for each portlight including the acrylic (which was inexpensive on McMaster and easy to machine/copy with the bandsaw and router table).

I flip-flopped on the bedding and switched from Dow 795 on the first one to butyl tape for the remaining 3 after I reminded myself how much I hate silicon and caulking in general (it sticks to everything and doesn't wipe off). Butyl isn't always a picnic but at least you're not under a time constraint working with it and it can be cleaned up.

After 8 trips to west marine for hardware (took a few tries to settle on the proper hardware and length. But kudos for WM for having a fantastic and reasonably priced hardware selection) it's done and looks decent.
 

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69' Coronado 25
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Asdf38: how about an interior pic
 

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I didn't snap any. The inside frames are identical to the outside except with acorn cap nuts.
 

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As of last month, on the east side of Tampa bay, Citronella did NOTHING!!!! :(

It just made them mad and they bit more and more. I had it so strong it was hard to breath.

Greg
Go to WalMart and buy some liquid body soap labeled with "shea butter". We usually get the WalMart brand "Equate". Have her shower with this and let me know how it is.

Though nothing is 100% this was amazing to us. I have a story but will wait to hear yours.

Sorry for the thread drift.
 

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Here is my Garmin mounted to the Edson pedestal. I already had the box holding all the instruments except the GPS and we were trying to decide how to mount. My buddy was holding it in place when I realized it was almost a perfect fit between the bars. 2 ss screws and a couple of rubber washers I found in the garage and I now have it mounted in a perfect location for no one to grab. Now if only I was smart enough to add a picture.... Im getting closer, :)

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/members/redfishnc-albums-sea-witch-picture945-garmin740r1.jpg
 

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...... Now if only I was smart enough to add a picture....
Go to Photobucket.com, create an account. (free and spam free) Upload your image to the site, then click on it and choose the IMG link code for sharing. copy and paste that code into your post et voila!!
C'est magnifique!!
 

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Photobucket's IMG code paste looks like this:



Also... just trying the new 'drag and drop' feature under the 'quick reply' box...

Kinda works but you only get a thumbnail..
 

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I wanted to mount the Autopilot control on the coaming but did not want it sticking out so no one could sit there. I found some "Marine recess boxes in the $100.00 range, then I found this one for $10.50 Recessed Multiple Gang TV Box for Power and Low Voltage
I put a piece of 3/4 starboard in the bottom to hold the control ( a thinner piece would have worked but 3/4 is what I had).
 

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Sorry I meant it gets indirect sun. Also the white was not quite white enough to get a close match so I had sprayed the outside of the box with Krylon plastic paint. so UV should not be a problem
 

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A couple of years ago to make the removal and re-bedding of my boats handrails easier. I enlarged the area under the cabin top to gain access to the mounting screws. This left some unsightly rectangular openings in the liner. This spring I finally got around to cover those spots up using some molding from the Home Depot:
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: FIXING A HOLE: HEADLINERS AND HANDRAILS
 

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A couple of years ago to make the removal and re-bedding of my boats handrails easier. I enlarged the area under the cabin top to gain access to the mounting screws. This left some unsightly rectangular openings in the liner. This spring I finally got around to cover those spots up using some molding from the Home Depot:
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: FIXING A HOLE: HEADLINERS AND HANDRAILS
That looks great, and definitely a creative solution that allows for future access.
 
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