SailNet Community banner

1401 - 1420 of 1613 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Got rid of the useless hideous looking icebox in my Mirage. All wood was scrap and hardware cost around 10$. Was planning on building a custom cooler attached to it but I like the easy access to the bilge. Interior ledge in door is keeping wiring off the bottom too.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts
A couple of years ago to make the removal and re-bedding of my boats handrails easier. I enlarged the area under the cabin top to gain access to the mounting screws. This left some unsightly rectangular openings in the liner. This spring I finally got around to cover those spots up using some molding from the Home Depot:
THE BIANKA LOG BLOG: FIXING A HOLE: HEADLINERS AND HANDRAILS
Is the molding just screwed into the cabin top?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,529 Posts
Is the molding just screwed into the cabin top?
Actually it is just screwed into the liner. There is a little space between the liner and the actual cabin top. If my boat did not have this liner I would have had easier access to the screws holding the handrails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,319 Posts
This low-bucks project is not complete yet, but I thought I'd share it with you to get your comments before I finish.

Since I have started anchoring a little more frequently, and am aways dealing with heavily caked-on mud even on a small lunch hook, I would like a washdown system. However, I always try to keep things simple and portable on my little 25 foot boat, and I really don't want to create another through-hull penetration. So I decided to make a portable wash-down system.

I found this portable submersible pump on Amazon:
Amazon.com: Docooler 12V Water Oil Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Submersible On/Off Switch Car Van Stainless Steel: Home [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@41PGoc2vrkL

It is designed to be lowered through the bunghole of a drum and run from a wired remote switch while hanging freely. It pumps non-flammable solvents (diesel, etc.), but also water. The specs indicate that it should have enough head to drive a spray nozzle, and my freeboard is about the height of a typical drum. So I think this has a chance of being a nice little portable washdown system once fitted with a hose and nozzle. For $20 I decided it was worth a try, so I bought one.

Out-of-the box, it comes with battery clips to attach to the lead posts on a battery. My initial dry test indicates that it draws only 1 amp, though I expect that amperage may increase under the load of pumping water (will test as soon as I can). But I think that it is low enough current that I will be able to cut off the clips and attach a 12v plug. I have 12v sockets at various locations on my boat, so I should be able to easily plug it in when I want to use it.

I want to cut off a relatively short (~8') length of garden hose. The hose barb is 3/4", but most of my hoses are 5/8" ID, so I need to figure that out.

Of course, this system could also be a backup bilge pump in case of emergency. I'm debating whether to cut the hose long enough to go all the way out the companionway hatch and over the gunwale, or whether I just figure a way to attach the hose to drain into the galley sink if it was pressed into use as an emergency bilge pump.

Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,319 Posts
...Since I have started anchoring a little more frequently, and am aways dealing with heavily caked-on mud even on a small lunch hook, I would like a washdown system. However, I always try to keep things simple and portable on my little 25 foot boat, and I really don't want to create another through-hull penetration. So I decided to make a portable wash-down system.

I found this portable submersible pump on Amazon:
Amazon.com: Docooler 12V Water Oil Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump Submersible On/Off Switch Car Van Stainless Steel: Home Improvement

It is designed to be lowered through the bunghole of a drum and run from a wired remote switch while hanging freely. It pumps non-flammable solvents (diesel, etc.), but also water. The specs indicate that it should have enough head to drive a spray nozzle, and my freeboard is about the height of a typical drum. So I think this has a chance of being a nice little portable washdown system once fitted with a hose and nozzle. For $20 I decided it was worth a try, so I bought one.

Out-of-the box, it comes with battery clips to attach to the lead posts on a battery. My initial dry test indicates that it draws only 1 amp, though I expect that amperage may increase under the load of pumping water (will test as soon as I can). But I think that it is low enough current that I will be able to cut off the clips and attach a 12v plug. I have 12v sockets at various locations on my boat, so I should be able to easily plug it in when I want to use it.

I want to cut off a relatively short (~8') length of garden hose. The hose barb is 3/4", but most of my hoses are 5/8" ID, so I need to figure that out.

Of course, this system could also be a backup bilge pump in case of emergency...
Project complete. Total cost about $43:

 
  • Like
Reactions: SHNOOL and Group9

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,319 Posts
Cool.

What sort of stream do you get from it?
I am not sure I have the words to answer that. My video may be the best answer you can get to that question.
 

·
Daysailor wannabe cruiser
Joined
·
142 Posts
It's been raining and storming for the last couple weeks so I've had plenty of time to do a quick project I'd been thinking about. I have some experienced sailors on the boat a lot and also frequently have beginners. Every boat is laid out a little different and I think it is easier to tell people which lever to open or close than to describe the color of the line. I just installed a double Gaurhauer on the starboard side that has black and blue levers, and have a triple Gaurhauer on the port side with grey levers. I bought some spray paint from the local Do it Best Hardware at 6.50 a can and color coded the levers. I'll report back to let you know how they're holding up in a few months.

I just sanded with 100 grit and sprayed on some enamel outdoor furniture type paint.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
867 Posts
This actually cost me nothing because it only used things I already had. But it came as a result of the fact that I had been eying a $45 attachment point for the end of the tiller extension.

It turns out that a bungee sail tie (which I like a lot btw) can hold the tiller extension handle against the stern rail perfectly well.

The extension is adjustable and seems pretty easy to either yank out or to re-adjust. In that position it can move the tiller across the useful sailing range of the tiller.


Currently, I have a line with two adjustable slip knots (adjustable grip hitch) on either end and a butterfly loop in the middle to go around the tiller handle. This is my tiller tie off line and tiller lock underway. It's worked fine but the tiller extension is another option that may prove easier to adjust.

Going upwind, tying off the tiller is my primary strategy and I can usually get the boat totally locked in and self-steering with the tiller tied (so long as the wind speed doesn't shift too much).

 

Attachments

·
Senior Moment Member
Joined
·
13,282 Posts
Other than free stuff, this is my lowest buck project ever - one buck.

I got the solid brass pulls for $0.25 each - $1 total and had the mirrored plexi left over from a skylight job on my house.

The first shot shows the scruffy 31 Y.O. plexi sliders with rusting chromed pulls as they were and the second shows my $1 investment.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,613 Posts
For any near locals, I'm cleaning out the basement and have found some teak .full 1" x4' and 1"x2 both 8'. Many shorter lengths of 3x4 teak ,some oak and jarra,yew . gum. Priced right.
 

·
Senior Moment Member
Joined
·
13,282 Posts
More near free locker sliding doors. This time I used some scraps of teak ply, more of those $0.25 solid brass pulls ($1.50 worth :eek:) and a couple of bucks worth of wipe on poly.

Total cost? About $5

First pic is the old plexi sliders with corroded chrome pulls, second pic is the new sliders.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
My gooseneck broke. $750 but I had already blown my budget on electrical upgrades. Could get a shop to make a new fitting for $250 by the end of boating season. None of these options appealed to me so I decided to rig it for the season and it cost me about $50. The repair is holding up so well I think I'll leave it permanently.

Starboard for in between the ss washers
2 ss plate washers machined to exact size.
2 small bolts any locking bolts.
1 ss ubolt
Epoxy so the u bolt won't ever rattle
 

Attachments

1401 - 1420 of 1613 Posts
Top