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I thought that I might have posted this here, but scanning back through the various pages, I apparently didn't. I like to steer from the the sides of the cockpit near the rail of the boat where I can better see the jib teletales.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/44215692244/in/dateposted-public/" title="Jeff Sailing September 2018"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/1920/44215692244_edb958e907.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Jeff Sailing September 2018"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The problem is that it is hard to see the GPS/Chartplotter from the side of the boat unless it is able to rotate. I had seen commercial GPS mounts but they all looked either too flimsy or were wildly expensive and most did not rotate. I ended up designing this simple starboard turn-table to mount the GPS on. It works very well and did not take very long to make.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/43180884641/in/dateposted-public/" title="E-GPS RotoMount w GPS in place 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/836/43180884641_f47564df20.jpg" width="309" height="500" alt="E-GPS RotoMount w GPS in place 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/42462613284/in/dateposted-public/" title="E-GPS RotoMount Detail w-o GPS in place"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/835/42462613284_8978f9cf59.jpg" width="500" height="412" alt="E-GPS RotoMount Detail w-o GPS in place"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/43180884751/in/dateposted-public/" title="E-GPS RotoMount frm below"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/1783/43180884751_8098d7809d.jpg" width="500" height="331" alt="E-GPS RotoMount frm below"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Jeff
 

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The other really low buck project was a cover for the end of my boom. Like many performance boats my boom end fitting has an opening that allows you to reeve new lines or replace the hardware that lives is inside the boom. This opening has been very appealing to birds and every spring I would have bird's nesting in the end of my boom. So I made this little cover out of prefinished aluminum flashing that I cut to shape and folded over to hem. I then made a naugahyde cover for the aluminum in case someone came in contact with it. The naugahyde was cut oversized to allow for a 1/2" margin and glued in place with contact cement. I folded and glued the margin onto the back of the aluminum before screwing it in place.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/48056732296/in/dateposted-public/" title="Synergy Boom End Fitting"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48056732296_aab80edb4c.jpg" width="500" height="456" alt="Synergy Boom End Fitting"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

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thebrianmanley
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Some horrible bent/twisted mahogany from Jamestown Distributors I think, a piece of red oak I had laying around (the leg) and a plywood top with some grooves routed in to look shippy. Lowes white paint and an old can of Cetol. Mix in some sloppy cuts and voila! Fold down table.
 

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Needed a better way to raise and lower the mast on my Mac 22. I didn't want to drop a few hundred on an actual mast raising system. So, I just made one. Works great. Got to use it today.
Made from a heavy gauge fence post, winch, 1/8" cable, hook, a pulley, and a length of water hose just big enough to get on the foot of it. Total cost was $30. Maybe. I bought the winch used for $5. Post was $8, cable hook, and everything else was maybe $10-15.
Works great. and makes raising and lowering the mast crazy easy.
 

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I don't have the pictures but I finally finished wiring my boat up. New masthead light, bow and stern lights, and interior lights. Got a battery, a small solar panel, and a battery tender solar controller for my birthday and so I wired them in. I used good tinned marine wire. In total I have about $80 in it not counting the gifts. Those would add another $200 to the project. However, I got it all wired up and running. Full LED and I'm all good for an overnight trip now. I'll be hooking up my fish finder to test it out. I need to find a good spot to mount it. If I can find a good place then I'll need to mount it and then I'll be good for a while. I think from here on out it'll either be repairs to things I break or accessories. I'll worry about that when the time comes though. I think if I can get this last little bit up and working I just may have the nicest Mac 22 out there. lol
 

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2" industrial velcro makes for easy temp...or permanent mounting...and still portable.
That's a good idea. I'm more concerned about the location. The cockpit is fairly small and space is a premium. Although, with velcro I may be able to mount it in different places. I'll play with it this weekend while I'm out.
 

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When converting a 12v drill ,may I suggest HD speaker wire. Flexible and big amp compatible. I built a 17 ' sailboat on the beach in Thailand .Makita and a car battery
 

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Barquito
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That's a good idea. I'm more concerned about the location. The cockpit is fairly small and space is a premium. Although, with velcro I may be able to mount it in different places. I'll play with it this weekend while I'm out.
An arm that swings from inside the cabin, into the companion way works well. You may also consider mounting them on a board that replaces one of the hatch boards.
 

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RAM mounts are great. Their suction cup rubber ball mount allows you to put something on virtually any smooth flat surface - companionway hatch, plexiglass port, vertical gunwale. I have a rubber ball permanently attached at the top of my binnacle for mounting my chartplotter for when sitting at the helm (or adjacent to the helm, since it can rotate 360 degrees around). When the weather turns bad, I put the suction cup under the dodger and move the chartplotter there. I also take the suction cup to others' boats to mount my stuff temporarily if doing a delivery or charter.

 

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RAM mounts are great. Their suction cup rubber ball mount allows you to put something on virtually any smooth flat surface - companionway hatch, plexiglass port, vertical gunwale. I have a rubber ball permanently attached at the top of my binnacle for mounting my chartplotter for when sitting at the helm (or adjacent to the helm, since it can rotate 360 degrees around). When the weather turns bad, I put the suction cup under the dodger and move the chartplotter there. I also take the suction cup to others' boats to mount my stuff temporarily if doing a delivery or charter.

I didn't know there were suction cup RAM mounts.....That would work great. I could move it around as the situation demands. I use a permanent base for one on my fishing boat. I like those Ram mounts. I'll see about getting one on my next payday. I just spent a lot more than I planned on for this last one.
 

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This is genius. What is the amp draw on the drill? Does it spike up high if the drill gets bogged down in tough material?
 

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This is genius. What is the amp draw on the drill? Does it spike up high if the drill gets bogged down in tough material?
I've heard some people say they have a binary depth sounder — their keel. Either they're aground or they're not.

Well, I have a binary amp meter. Either I've blown the fuse or I haven't. So I know that the drill draws less than 15 amps, but I couldn't say how much less. If it bogs down it does drop the voltage enough so that you can see the cabin lights dim.
 

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I've heard some people say they have a binary depth sounder — their keel. Either they're aground or they're not.

Well, I have a binary amp meter. Either I've blown the fuse or I haven't. So I know that the drill draws less than 15 amps, but I couldn't say how much less. If it bogs down it does drop the voltage enough so that you can see the cabin lights dim.
That's a good enough answer for me. Less than 15 A should be fine.
 

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just working n a double jetboil burner gimbal, it's just a prototype at the moment, still trying to figure out how to fix it in the boat (75 Grampian 26)
 

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already had a jetboil burner, was already thinking about getting another one (java model) so all that was needed was the wood, about 40$ and have plenty leftover for a few other projects.

I have a 2 burner stove, but it's a bit too wide for my galley and I wanted a gimballed stove
 
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