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Learning the HARD way...
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Glow plug resistance should be .08-1.2 Ohms
Glow plug torque should be 7-11 foot pounds, or 1-1.5 M Kgs
 

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Learning the HARD way...
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Also - I enjoyed reading your well written blog posts.
 

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Interesting.

IMHO, if the plugs don't work, you should make sure that power is getting to the plug before removing it. I have seen more cases of bad wiring and dirty connections than I have of bad plugs.

Have you tested the plugs you removed to see if they work when connected directly to 12V?

A real quick test is to run a HEAVY wire from the positive lead on the battery to the tip of the plug and THEN see if the plug gets hot.

Barry
 

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Interesting.

IMHO, if the plugs don't work, you should make sure that power is getting to the plug before removing it. I have seen more cases of bad wiring and dirty connections than I have of bad plugs.

Have you tested the plugs you removed to see if they work when connected directly to 12V?

A real quick test is to run a HEAVY wire from the positive lead on the battery to the tip of the plug and THEN see if the plug gets hot.

Barry
Another way is to put an ohm meter from the plug to ground, without battery on it, you should get some resistance, it was mentioned .08-1.2 Ohms,
if not sure, disconnect the wire and read it again.

Paul T
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The other day I did test two of the old glow plugs (I've misplaced the third), and in fact they operated as expected. By the count of 15, when hooked up to a bench battery, each glowed red hot.

I had changed the glow plugs as part of a general cleanup and upgrade of harness and engine panel in which I reterminated most wires, eliminated trailer connectors and so on. My old grounds were pretty suspect and may well have been the cause of various problems.

Since changing the glow plugs is an easy and inexpensive job, might as well do it when making a mess anyhow. But as was said above, there is not much to go wrong with them, and wiring would be the first place to troubleshoot.
 
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