[georgemci102a2]

Hi all, I have a new to me helms 24 that is in need of a new mainsheet.The blocks are trashed.Is there a place that sells the entire assembly (prefer) or the parts to rebuild one.I am new to sailing, and there is no local support for sailboat parts where i live.I have tried looking on the net,but all the blocks are confusing to me,and would not know what to order (also have mainsail issues,but i guess that is another thread....Thank you George.

 

[SHNOOL]

This would work... just throw some 5/16" yachtbraid or something and you'll be good.
Catalina Direct: Mainsheet Block Kit for C-22, CP-22, or C-25 Inexpensive block set for the mainsheet...

Then this for line... I'd err on the side of about 40' perhaps longer.. Figure your furthest out setting given the position of the traveler, then multiply by 4 (4:1)... then add a few feet for swag.
Samson XLS Solid Color Yacht Braid

This of course assumes you have a traveler. Looks like the standard config for the Helms 24 is a traveler at the threshhold of the companionway. If the car on the traveler is OK of course.

 

[georgemci102a2]

Thank you so much,Thats exactly what im looking forThanks for the help (again)....George.

 

[georgemci102a2]

Yes the (car) on the traveler seems to be ok,but the little blocks on the far left and right are trashed.....It would be nice if i could do away with those small blocks on the right and left of the traveler, and just lock it at the car.Not quite sure how a traveler is supposed to actually work, or benefit me because ive never used it yet.The tanzer doesent have one....George.

 

[Gladrags1]

The little cars on the side of the traveler are important for moving the traveler up or down wind. You really won't be able to move the traveler upwind without them. The traveler is good to help keep the same sail shape while changing it's orientation to the wind.

I would go to a chandlery and bring the old cars with you in hopes of finding a new car to replace them with.if you have used boat part chandlery in or close to your location you could start looking there. I would not simply pick up something online because the shape of the track can be very different from manufacturer to manufacturer. You might end up having to replace the traveler just to get new blocks on either side.

Good luck,
Tod

 

[georgemci102a2]

Thanks for taking time to help me Tod.Hope i can just order the little block wheels

 

[SHNOOL]

end control blocks?
this is my configuration on my old boat..

I had fixed blocks on the vertical, and a pad-eye as a starter.. line starts at the padeye, down to the traveler car, around the sheave, and back to a sheave/block fixed on the combing, and through a cleat.

Something like this for the block...
Harken 22 mm Micro Upright Block

This for padeye...
Sea-Dog Eye Plate

Perhaps this for cleats?
Harken 150 Ball Bearing Cam Cleat

Harken 425 fairlead is useful for the Harken 150s...

This is not a light undertaking to rebuild your traveler... But all I can say is having the traveler in conjunction with the mainsheet, will provide significantly more sail control once you get the hang of it....

Example... boom centered, but mainsheet loose (boom rises some with it loose)... so move the traveler higher, to get the boom on center...

Another Example... Winds pick up, tighten mainsheet, when puffs arrive drop the traveler to depower, slide traveler up again when the puff passes.

 

[georgemci102a2]

TaaaDaaa.....Thats exactly how mine works.think i will just chuck the little broken swivel roller blocks, and order all the parts that you laid out for me, and i should be fine. do you think 40 or 50 feet of mainsheet line will be about right? ps i have the same cleats already mounted and they work.

 

[georgemci102a2]

This is the list that im ordering from the links you gave me(1 mainsheet assy/ 40 or 50 feet of mainsheet line/2 fixed roller assy.that should do it...Thanks so much....George

 

[SHNOOL]

George, glad I could help... I'd err on 50ft if you can swing it. Don't forget you'll need control lines for the car itself... 5/16 should work for that as well. Might be too soon to mention this (cause it might confuse things a bit for you)... but A "continuous" line, works out best for the traveler car control... Meaning 1 piece...

From padeye, to car, back to block, through cleat, then over to the other cleat (yep, looks weird, but it'll make sense)... down through the cleat, the block, back to the car, then up to the padeye. What this allows is you to uncleat the far side cleat from the opposite side, that becomes pretty important if you are sailing solo.

 

[sailingfool]

The best blocks for the money are Garhauer Garhauer Marine Hardware -10142793, I assume a fellow named Guido is still providing sizing advice over the phone. I suggest you look at the New England Ropes Salsa line for the sheet I've found it be excellent to handle and completely kink-resistant. You might be able to do it cheaper, but this quality gear is stuff you'd enjoy for years.

 

[georgemci102a2]

Just wanted to say thanks again for your time and energy spent guiding me to the parts that i needed...(Parts ordered and on there way)....Thanks George.