[zz4gta]

Hello, I'm also a Merit 25 sailor. Great boats. I've done a full bottom job, template the keel and rudder, long board, barrier coat, etc. I've also re-cored most of the deck, replaced the mast step, and replaced all running and standing rigging. The biggest cost you want to avoid is doing redoing the stringers. In 85 boats and newer they were bulked up, but the original ones in previous years the stringers need to be rebuilt stronger. A yard would do it for 3k or so but you can do it yourself.

Merit 25 Home Page
The info is old but these boats aren't new, so not much has changed.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[zz4gta]

Christian Hess, you are correct, the older boats are stronger than the newer ones. The photos on the Skedaddle site are a very good reference but the site does run slow. The reinforcements at the keel to hull joint can be called different things. In the newer boats they're 1/2" ply with FG around them (I could be wrong) on the older ones they MUCH thicker. The ones in my boat are 2-2.5" wide. Mine is an 84.

 

[zz4gta]

My mainsheet setup is the same as the factor 4:1 with a 2:1 traveler. No reason to change it for me. I did increase the backstay purchase to 24:1 and run it up to the traveler. Works great while racing.

I've thought about reinforcing the bow section. The thing oil cans going upwind when it's blowing. Here on the chesepeake bay we get steep chop that stacks ups and is hard on small light boats.

 

[zz4gta]

sailed again today, plus my friend bought another boat to start learning to sail on too!

if anyone is interested here is the merit 25 TUNING GUIDE

Untitled 1

found out my mast is kenyon, whats yours zz?

I have a 3350 MORC section. I looked at that tuning guide and I think it's a little high. In San Fran it's windy and I think that works fine, but on the bay you need a little more give. And I use a loose gauge.

 

[zz4gta]

I can't seem to find other pics of my boat, I must've lost them in transitioning to the new computer. Oh well. There are a bunch on the skedaddle site.

The boat is fast and responds well to minor changes in the rig tune and rail meat. For w/l racing the boat really likes to be sailed flat in breeze, so load up the rail with weight.

The boat will surf well downwind with the kite up. We've hit 12.5 with a reef and #3 on a delivery once, and can easily get double digits with the kite up in 18+.

BTW - this past summer I had a rudder bracket break during a race. We limped home but check all your stainless for stress cracks and rust. These boats are getting old enough where that could become a problem.

 

[zz4gta]

its very loose on rear lowers and intermediates...the cap shrouds are tighter

zz have you invested in a better vang? Im thinkinh about the ko75 boom kicker

I can't remember what I had in 15 kts true but the caps were at or around 28-31 on the Loose gauge and the lowers were 24-28. The aft checks were lose. And honestly, you probably don't need them on until you're at 15 kts with 1/2 to 3/4+ max backstay on. Basically if the mast is pumping, then put some on to steady the middle section of the mast. Done.

I have upgraded my vang. I did a soft vang with dyneema and T2 tie lite blocks from harken, then added the boom kicker. I forget what model but it was pretty small. It was a fantastic upgrade for racing in light air. I love it.

 

[zz4gta]

my tiller has a broken bracket up top connecting to the stock, ill try to fix when I varnish the tiller

This is the same part that broke. Mine are stainless straps that fatigued with age and use. Easy fix but we had to retire from racing. Luckily it wasn't blowing very hard.

x2 on flat sailing...it HATED anything over 25-30 degrees or so...I put my friend on the rail around 15 knots with the genoa and it made very little difference in heel. me thinks 2 or 3 minimum are needed but thats for racing obviously

I usually sail with 4 for short course stuff. I have sailed with 5 when it was blowing 25+ and it makes a huge difference.

which one is your boat?

Mine is Audrey hull number 764

any tips on halyard tension for the jib? I need a new cam cleat and or re reoute the halyard as it loses tension during normal sailing...

Halyard tension will depend on your sails. The J24s like a loose luff, but I'm not sold on the merit liking the same. The jib on the merit is a good bit larger than the 24 as well. I've added Lewmar D1 clutches to my boat and a mast cleat for the spin hal. The spin halyard also has a clutch for tighter reaching longer legs.

is yours free to adjust like this or do you set it and adjust forestay sag accordingly?

I adjust the jib halyard with a cabin top winch. Cam cleats aren't really intended to be used for halyards. The loads are too high.

unlike other boats I have had including racing a j24 the merit is disntinguished in that it calls for forestay tightening in a breeze in combination with good backstay adjustment

I usually set the forestay length as long as I can get it without too much weather helm for the conditions. The rig likes a lot of rake in it. Pin to pin measurement should be around 30'-6". Shorter for more breeze, and maybe a little longer for lighter stuff.

what method to you use to tighten forestay turnbuckle?

I use a wrench and screwdriver or spike at the dock. My forestay is not adjustable on the fly. Does it make a difference, yes, but I'm not ready to commit to an adjustable forestay. Lots of other things to get right before controlling rake on the fly is the reason you're losing races.

btw Im loving my foil luffs...mand its beatiful to see such great shape and curve down the luff...

Only way to go in my opinion. I've been happy with mine as well.

 

[zz4gta]

For some reason I'm blocked from seeing the photos at work. I'll try looking at them again when I'm home.

 

[zz4gta]

I'm running tapered sheets lead up to the cabin top winches.

Starting from the sail the sheet goes through:
- the twinger/tweaker which is lead to max beam on the boat at the toe rail.
- The ratchet turning block at the stern
- forward to another turning block near the bulkhead
- then to the cabin top winches. This keeps them out of the way during mark roundings. I set and douse through the forward hatch.