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· Remember you're a womble
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sorry about the barrage of mooring related questions :)

So, I am going to be moving my boat from a nice, safe and secluded slip, to a mooring buoy out in the harbour. Yes, the mooring is big enough, yes I will be using at least 2 unequal pendants of good quality (probably at least 3/4" too), and yes I will be using chafe guard where appropriate. Assume also that any hardware would have backing plates as large as practically possible.

My current deck hardware consists of a central 6" or so cleat, with a small teak backing plate. An anchor roller of unknown quality and fit (I have never used it), and a small chock that serves no purpose since the hawse pipe blocks a fair lead from the cleat to the chock. Deck is balsa cored glass, toerail is C&C, so an aluminum L section perforated rail bolted though the deck and hull (forms part of the hull/deck join) on roughly 3-4" intervals. Basically, I need to change whatever is there since I do not think it is up to the job, and likely whatever I do is going to require a fair amount of work. Given this, I can't decide on the best route.

1. Try to find some way of putting a cleat on the rail at each side of the bow - this will likely involve fabricating some sort of mounting block, bolting the cleat to that, and then through the rail/deck.

2. Fit some chocks (which will likely involve cutting the vertical part of the L section off) and replace the central cleat with a bigger one (for bigger lines), or a small samson post, with a bigger backing plate.

3. Fit a bow eye and moor to that - this might involve running a temp 3rd mooring line to the deck cleat and then releasing the shackle(s) from the dinghy, I haven't got on the boat to see if it's feasible from there.

4. Something else I haven't thought of yet.

I'm thinking that option 3 might actually be the better route - doesn't involve disturbing the toerail at all, and while not the most convenient, it might have some advantages, namely much less chance of chafe, and a lower attachment point gives me better scope, plus I'd only have to drill two holes through glass.

I kind of need to make a decision in the next day or three so that I can get the bits and get going, boat will need to be on the mooring for April 1st, so I have two weekends after this one.

What would you do?

PS. We don't get hurricanes here, a 40kt wind is about the maximum we ever see in these parts, if we happen to get a 70kt day forecast, I will move the boat to a slip temporarily.
 

· HANUMAN
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I'm trying to find a photo of the bow of my old 30MKI. I'll try to explain my setup for the mooring. I used the center cleat for the main mooring line, plenty strong enough.
Just aft of (I think) the forward bow pulpit stantion, the previous owner added a second set of chocks.

There is a commercially available chock set that the mounting holes match the bolt pattern of the toe rail perfectly. They might be 'Suncore' or 'Whitecap'.

He cut to toe rail from the 90 degree bend at the deck, long enough to add the chock. The cut up to remove the upright part of the toe rail. The left the flat base of the toe rail on the deck. He then finished it off nice and clean and touched up the black paint.

It looked nice and worked well for decades. I'll keep searching for a photo....
 

· Remember you're a womble
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, decision made. I am going to shave off a bit of the aluminium toerail fillet and fit chocks. The central cleat is actually beefier than I remembered, and there is no way to get a decent backing underneath the rail itself to fit cleats there which kinda makes the decision for me I guess.
 

· HANUMAN
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OK, decision made. I am going to shave off a bit of the aluminium toerail fillet and fit chocks. The central cleat is actually beefier than I remembered, and there is no way to get a decent backing underneath the rail itself to fit cleats there which kinda makes the decision for me I guess.
Did you get to enlarge my photo (or maybe your eyes are better than mine:))? Those chocks on the toe rail are nice in that they are angled so that a properly sized rope would not pop out during a real blow if the boat starts to hobby horse.
 

· Closet Powerboater
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I'd fit a bow eye, with secondaries to the existing bow hardware. Nobody says it has to be at the waterline. Juts fit it a few inches below the roller and everything else and you can easily reach it while aboard at the bow.
 
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