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Tartan 27' owner
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5,238 Posts
So the cutless bearing is in deadwood, like mine. No strut.
You are in for some fun!
This is how my cutless bearing project went down in 2011:
2011, November 30th. Begin drive train rebuild | Odalisque

Best advice I can give you is to get hold of a Sawzall with a few new, sharp metal blades. We used the Sawzall to cut the cutless bearing in order to remove it And to cut the shaft in half, making the whole job much easier. A new SS shaft was < $300 and we were back in business with a brand new drive train.

Have any idea how old your prop shaft is? or what material it is made from?
Ours was original (from 1967) and bronze and was worn at the stuffing box junction. Once we found the wear on the shaft it was easy to say "cut 'er up".

Consider replacing the shaft log tube too while you are there if it looks original. Be ready for the "cutless bearing job" to blossom into the "drive train job".

Good luck.
 

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Tartan 27' owner
Joined
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5,238 Posts
Well, looking at the line drawings of the Morgan 35' I'm not sure you can remove your shaft without dropping your rudder first.
MORGAN 35 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com
With your shaft removed you can easily remove your old cutless bearing and install a new one. In order to remove your shaft you will need to disconnect the flange from the tranny and remove the flange from the shaft, then slide the shaft out of the boat.

You may want to consult with a local boat yard though. Some may have the specialized tools to remove and replace the cutless bearing with the shaft still in the boat (requiring only the prop to pulled off the shaft). I'm not sure about this though so check around.

I'm not convinced that old Charlie had a better way of designing an engine propulsion system than anyone else but I am curious if you do find a "better" way.
 

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Tartan 27' owner
Joined
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5,238 Posts
Your plan sounds about right to me Bill. It is quite a bit of work just to replace a 4" long bearing but fortunately it should last a good long time.

In the "while you are in there" category you might consider:
- replacing the shaft log hose (Buck Algonquin hose behind stuffing box) & hose clamps
- have shaft checked for true by prop shop
- have propeller spun by prop shop to verify balance is true
- if re-using shaft coupling have it "fit & faced" by prop shop

Best of luck with this.
 
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