[TSOJOURNER]

I've just purchased a 1973 Ericson 27 in OK condition. It as a brand new head that as not been installed (old one is gone) and some work is required on the builing in fridge. Anyone would recommend a local mechanic?

Thanks
Fred

 

[sailortjk1]

Not sure where local is?

 

[sailingdog]

Where are you located? Also, a mechanic might not be the best choice to install the head. Is there any reason you can't install the head yourself???

I've just purchased a 1973 Ericson 27 in OK condition. It as a brand new head that as not been installed (old one is gone) and some work is required on the builing in fridge. Anyone would recommend a local mechanic?

Thanks
Fred

 

[TSOJOURNER]

Where are you located? Also, a mechanic might not be the best choice to install the head. Is there any reason you can't install the head yourself???

Sorry, Marina Del Rey.

I am looking for an owner manual so I can figure out the in / out hoses, I can maybe try it. Unfortunately the original head was all ready taken out so I don't have enough references.

Thanks

 

[sailingdog]

It would help if you said what make/model head you had. However, most are plumbed much the same...so if you don't know what hoses are what, it is usually pretty simple to trace them.

The head's water intake hose is usually a 3/4" hose and goes to a seacock and through hull. The head's output hose is 1.5" in diameter, and either goes to the holding tank, which is my preferred setup, or to a diverter valve, and then either to the seacock and through-hull or to the holding tank.

Since you don't have a head installed currently, IMHO, you should look at replacing the hose as part of your installation, since permeated hoses and calcification inside hoses are a common issue. The best hose for the install is either Trident 101/102 or Sealand OdorSafe for the waste hoses, and Trident 148 for the intake and vent lines.

Use stainless steel hose clamps and double clamp the below the water line hoses. Make sure the clamps are high quality, all stainless steel clamps, like the AWAB or ABA brand (which are the same make under different names).

The head itself will generally have four fittings.

First, there is an intake hose fitting that is 3/4" that gets connected to the seacock.

Then there is a water output to the bowl, which is 3/4", which is connected to the water input to the bowl-also 3/4". This line should be a high vented loop if the head is installed below the water line.

Finally, there is a waste output fitting from the pump which is the only 1.5" line.

The Holding Tank will generally have three fittings.

One will be a 5/8" vent line.

One will be a 1.5" fitting that is mounted high, in the case of side mounted fittings, or not have a pickup tube inside the tank in the case of top mounted tank fittings. This is the waste input fitting that should come from the head.

The other 1.5" fitting will generally be mounted low in the tank for a side mounted fitting or have a long pickup tube for a top mounted fitting. This is the pumpout hose fitting. Ideally, it should go to a diverter valve and the valve outputs should go either up to a deck pumpout fitting or to a macerator/diaphragm pump and then to the seacock and discharge through-hull.

I hope this helps.

Sorry, Marina Del Rey.

I am looking for an owner manual so I can figure out the in / out hoses, I can maybe try it. Unfortunately the original head was all ready taken out so I don't have enough references.

Thanks

 

[TSOJOURNER]

It does thank you, Its an 1973 Ericson 27. I'll compare your notes with the number of fittings that I have on board and see if I can figure it out. Thanks again.

 

[TSOJOURNER]

Be very very careful about using mechanics, engineers or boat maintenance "professionals" even if they are recommended.

I recently bought a yacht with a Beta Marine engine, asked the local Beta agent to undertake a service and was ripped off to the tune of $600. They came highly recommended. I cant even list all the errors and mistakes they have made.
When you employ a professional, they will not (generally) give the job as much care and attention as you would yourself.

Nigel Calder has a very good book on electrical and mechanical systems on board.
I strongly recommend investing in, and reading this book carefully. He describes installing a fridge, fitting the heads and just about anything else you might well come across.

If you yourself are not the most practical person in the world, you will still learn a lot and understand what is involved in completing these jobs. You will be less likely to be ripped off.

It may also get you out of trouble when you have problems and you are in a quiet anchorage on your own.

Be as self sufficient as possible and understand your boat and systems.

 

[TSOJOURNER]

Heads: Additional Info

Make sure you have the highest grade of marine sanitation pipe you can buy. Cheap pipe will begin to smell very quickly, weeks.
average pipe may last a couple of years.

Top quality pipe should last 15 years or more in a yacht

 

[sailingdog]

Second what Mokusiga says about marine professionals... many are complete hacks and all professional means to them is that the IRS knows that they do the work for a living.

The Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, by Don Casey is worth its weight in gold. It will allow you to save a lot of money by doing a fair bit of the maintenance and work on your boat yourself, provided you know which end of the screwdriver to hold.

Don't use plastic pipe on a boat, use HOSE.

 

[TSOJOURNER]

Thank you for all the tips, really glad to have found this forum.

Cheers