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New 1984 oday 26 advice

6K views 36 replies 10 participants last post by  cappinstabbin 
#1 ·
Hey guys!

So if anyone saw my other post about the irwin 28 i was looking at with the soft hull. I am soooo happy i didnt let my passions make me jump the gun because i found an absolutley gorgeous 1984 oday 26 in forked river nj. I have to bring the boat down to Atlantic City once it warms up here in the north east because right now i could probably trailer it over the frozen bays haha. I was wondering if anyone can offer any advice bringing the boat i have never driven before down the icw the roughly 60 miles to Atlantic City. It has a 2006 honda 4 stroke electric start extra long shaft motor with veryyy low miles on it. How many gallons of fuel would you estimate the trip will take under ideal conditions? Any advice or tips is greatly appreciated, i never captained a boat this far myself, especially one i am not used to. So i am kind of nervous but very very excited.


Thanks guys
 
#2 ·
Congrats on your new boat!

I'm an owner of a 84' O'day 26 as well and so far love mine. You may already be aware but be sure to check a few of the known "problem areas" for the 26. Inspect close around the mast step area for signs of water entry or depression (many owners have had to cut away the step area and reglass).

While I can't comment on the fuel situation much as I have a different outboard (Mercury 4 stroke 6 hp), I will mention that although most will tell you that only a 3.2 gallon gas tank fits in the gas locker there is a specific brand that makes a 6 gallon that will fit. I can't recall the brand now but it may be worthwhile to do some research on that.

Fair winds,
 
#3 ·
He told me that he needed to get the mast step area redone. He showed me the survey reports and it actually increased the value of the boat. There was water getting in through where the wires for the mast went through the deck. Is this the same problem you are talking about?
 
#6 ·
I've seen people say it comes from different areas but essentially there is a square of balsa right under the mast step that will rot out if there is any water entry. You'll see gel coat cracking around the step and there may be a "depression in the gelcoat". The repair essentially is cutting out that rotten balsa and glassing the area back in.

On the fuel situation I would say carrying 20 gallons shouldn't be an issue. 6 gals in gas locker, 6 gals in secondary external tank in cockpit floor (annoyance but oh well). If you wanted to really avoid stopping for fuel I guess you could secure some fuel in the aft compartment provided it's sealed well. That's one of the things I like about the 26' is that massive space where the inboard diesel would have been.
 
#4 ·
you need to get an Oday 30 and the NJ intercoastal is for power boats, I've not yet tried the coast but everyone says it's easy.. the inlets are the killer/s :) GOOD LUCK.
 
#5 ·
I would calculate fuel use as 1.25 gallon per hour, 4 mph speed on 60 mile distance. That is 18.75 gallons. If you run into a chop, adverse wind, etc. that could double. Check out in advance the places where you can refuel along the way.
 
#7 · (Edited)
My guesstimate of your probable fuel consumption on the 60 nm trip is more like 10 gallons (and probably much less). It's hard to believe a 26 foot boat at 4 kts would only make about 3 miles per gallon. I had a Pearson 26 with a 2-stroke engine and would get about 10 or more when motoring in calm conditions at 5 kts.
 
#8 ·
There was some cracking in the gelcoat around the step. I am kind of nervous now. Im guessing that rotted wood under there probably really adds to the chances of getting the mast blown off? There wasn't any depression. The whole thing was redone in 06 i think he said. Yea i will bring about 20 gals i think just to be safe. Its a 4stroke and I'm guessing it's going to be ok on gas from what i read.
 
#10 ·
We have (2) Oday 26s in our club, both had the mast step issue. Both were repaired quite quickly by the owners, and from below, so you can barely see the work they did. The depression was quite noticeable on the sunken mast step when it happened.

I can't speak to the fuel consumption.

The Oday 26, being a shoal keel/centerboard design I'd say skinny water shouldn't be a big issue. Of course you could haul the boat, plop it on a trailer, and move it via land. A Catalina 25 swing keel trailer would work.
 
#11 ·
RE: fuel consumption - it would HELP if we knew what size (hp or cc) "2006 honda 4 stroke electric start extra long shaft motor with veryyy low miles on it." My guess would be an 8, 9.9, or 15hp, with the highest likely contender the 9.9 (that would be my preference).

Also, when refering to a marine engine, we usually count hours, not miles...

This is a total SWAG, but assuming that you have the 9.9, you will probably push that 4800lb O'day 26 to about 5kts at 1/2 throttle. That engine probably burns 3/4 gallon per hour at 1/2 throttle, and you want to go 60 miles. Assuming no current (and that is unlikely), that 60 miles will take you 11 hours, and burn 8.75 gallons of fuel. Assuming that ALL my assumptions are correct (and that's a stretch) I would not attempt this with less than 12 gallons aboard.
 
#13 ·
Just my humble opinion but I believe a 9.9hp is not necessary for this boat if it's not what you have. I use a 6hp 4-stroke mercury and have no issues of being underpowered. I spent most of my time an inland like but the rivers around here have a fair amount of current at times.
 
#12 ·
... Bring a cell phone, portable VHF, charts, an anchor, motor oil, food and water in addition to the USCG required equipment if you decide to make this trek by water.
 
#14 ·
I'm not pushing the 9.9, other than it is the same weight and size as the 8. I believe it just uses a different carburetor. Heck, the Colgate 26s that I teach on (2600lbs, or roughly ½ the weight of the O'day 26) all use Yamaha 4-stroke 4s, and that is PLENTY of HP for that boat.

Frankly, I think the 15 would be ridiculous, but one never knows...
 
#15 ·
Sorry! It is an 8hp and i did mean hours not miles lol, the old owner kept it docked a stones through from Barneget Bay where he would throw the sails up.
I have a mounted vhf in it brand new, and a portable one, i have a decent amount of experience with navigating the back bays of NJ. Even though i am a bit nervous about the trip, i think it will be ok, take my time, if it is 11 hours i will probably spend the night on her either at a transient dock along the way or at anchor, (with my handy anchor alarm app :)" It looks like it is definitely the same problem everyone else had with the "wet core." Does anyone know how much it would cost to get this fixed guestimating? I am not friendly with fiberglass repair and would like to get it done professionally. Also would it be reckless to try and get a season out of her first? I'm not a hardcore sailor type, i enjoy cruising, theres no real sinking as far as i can see, but definitely spider cracks, and leakage. I really appreciate all the help, you guys are all pretty cool, usually internet forums are filled with very touchy, generally mean people lol.
 
#17 ·
Ooh that step looks sound still... However, you need to get those cracks ground out, and sealed, those are more than spider cracks.

Also what is the deal with the duct tape repair? What's under that? Looks like another crack... But yeah the step looks sound for now, but won't be without sealing it up.

Usually its just grind it out wider, resin into the crack, let it dry, sand, then gelcoat. Or once dry you can paint.
 
#18 ·
Yea I don't see a big problem with the step in the picture but I can't tell if its depressed from the angle. You should be good, just keep an eye on it. The core we are talking about is almost the same size as the white gel coat square under the step. It's separate from the deck core.
 
#22 ·
good chance someone tried to drop the mast and NOT take out the pin which caused the plate to flex the cabin top!

Are you serious about using taking the NJ ICW?
 
#21 ·
First off congrats on the new boat! She looks nice. I would agree that the area around the mast base looks ok......didn't you mention the owner had that repaired? Is there soft or spongy areas around the cracks in the non-skid areas? You may need to cut out those areas of gel-coat/glass and re glass n re gel-coat.
As far as the trip I just looked at Opencpn and it is only 40 statute miles on the inside and approx. 38 nm on the outside. Other than some skinny water on the inside there are no bridges that you can't make it under until south of Atlantic city. I myself would go outside it is an easy trip if you pick your day should be a get sail.
enjoy be safe and enjoy some more.
Peter
 
#23 ·
The old owner had the area professionally redone in 04. Is doubt someone tried to lower the mast without taking the pins out. He is an older guy and said he would pay the marina 150 a pop to lower it with a crane and 150 to raise it again.

I am thinking about the intercoastal atleast until LBI just because its going to be my first time on the water with her and if something comes up i think it will be safer until i get the hang of it. The ICW isn't too windey and tumultous until you get to AC at which point it takes like 4 hours to get to ocean city because it wraps all around in no wake zones.

I am so excited about this boat. She really is beautiful and he took great care of her. Has reports of maintenance every year being done by the marina. The bottom paint isnt caked up of 30 years worth of paint and there isnt a single crack or blister that i can see on the hull or keel joint. I way 250 and i was stepping heavy around the mast with 0 deflection or give.

I am going to try to catch the tide coming down to hopefully catch a knot or two over land speed. What was the site you used to calculate the 40 miles? I been studying the active captain local knowledge tips for schoalling and hazards.
 
#26 · (Edited)
That is indeed a great price. I ended up paying about $6k for mine in good condition but it needed a bottom job. I think between 6-9k is the average depending on outboard or diesel inboard.

EDIT: Be sure you rebed those chainplates correctly to stop the obvious water entry into those bulkheads. Looks like you might need to replace all or sections of the bulkhead soon. That's pretty typical for these boats. There are a number of threads on it over at sbo.sailboatowners.com
 
#27 ·
Hmmm... I am looking at some of the other pictures, something I usually avoid doing if the person posting the link only references one picture, I only look at one... but since others thumbed around the flickr so did I...

Those chainplates need attention... now.

There is obvious heavy water infiltration going on down the chainplates (evidence rotted bulkheads). Also I'll ammend my prior statement. Get that deck sealed at every crack. Also the bulkheads will need repaired, and the leaks around the chainplates sealed. His fix in 2004 might have been stellar, but his lack of attention at those other things have compromised the sandwich elsewhere. Others can chime in as to whether the whole boat is cored, or only in certain areas. Also end-grain balsa or plywood?

Also I'd wager some of the bigger splits are from the deck getting water intrusion and freezing... Obvious signs of that are gelcoat splitting UP, not just spidering (hence why I asked about the duct tape).

Sorry I am NOT trying to be an alarmist... but I still think it's a good deal. You'll just need to put some time in sealing up those cracks, and perhaps painting the deck. You may want to try some of those products that claim to harden up the rotted wood by the chainplates... remove the chainplates, use the bent nail in the screw gun trick, and fill up the gap, with the hardener.

The bigger cracks will need to be ground out.. From there you have 2 roads...
Road

A... fill with epoxy/marine-tex, or watertite epoxy (my favorite)... If you use epoxy, you can only paint over it... This road is the quick/easy road. Pick a nice easy product like kiwigrip or something.

B... Fill with resin, and in deeper cracks laminating resin, with filler or pieces of chopped strand. When dry sand, clean wash the area, then acetone wash, and cover with gelcoat. This is the harder route but the longer term fix. Try Minicraft of FL for exact matched pre-measured gelcoat..

Also if you wanna make sure the mast step is OK... take a 2x4, on edge, and lay it next to the mast tabernacle... you'll visibly be able to see how much dip there is below the 2/4... if it's more than say 1/4", you'll need to tear that all up and affix another repair. The duct tape over the pass throughs shows that the owner expected leaks from them... it's less likely its them.. They actually seal pretty well if sized correctly. They are also wear parts and should be changed out every couple years, the rubber breaks down in UV.
Sea-Dog Cable Outlet

Otherwise it looks great, that motor is worth most of what you paid for the boat... Just putting some urgency on your repairs... I wouldn't put sails up until you address those bulkheads and the chainplate leaks.

It's not the end of the world, but you gotta get the leaking stopped, and rebed stanchions, and chainplates, before it's not "easily" fixable without a recore. Given the amount of work, might be better to see if you can get/borrow a trailer to bring the boat home, plop it in the driveway so when you get a free couple of days you can work on the boat in stages/weather windows.
 
#28 ·
All great advice above. Absolutely still a great deal. You have plenty of room to make repairs and still be under the average cost of a 26'

Google O'day 26 mast step or bulkhead and you'll find many articles on the subject.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Cappin,what was the nature of the survey report? When was the survey done? Do you have a copy of it? The warning bells for me is the major deformation along the cabin roof and the most likely GRP penetrating cracks. This could be a very major repair, requiring removal of a large portion of cabin roof or headliner to get beyond the core rot. Hopefully, the deformation is the result of rot in the cabin roof squishing the core flat (my guess is your cabin roof is about an inch thick or more), but I would check the mast step too. The second thing would be to poke around the bulkheads for dry rot. You might be in for replacing those too. If you have water damage in the bulkheads, chances are you have core rot in the weather decks where the chain plates poke through. If you haven't bought the boat yet, invest in a moister meter and survey, If you already bought it, motor it to your home marina as IMHO, the boat doesn't appear to be in sailable condition (I could be wrong and that is why you want a survey to guide you in the repair process.)
 
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