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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New Bulkheads & Interior Framing

The interior is gutted, bulkheads are out, and on the home stretch with the grinder.

I'm getting ready to install new bulkheads, and fit the interior with ribs and stringers, keeping it all very basic.

A few questions:

1) There are 2 existing stringers (stiffeners?) on each side attached to the hull that span the length of the boat. Large sections of these are missing/cut-out from a refit with a PO. The stringers are basically a closed cell foam with a 2/3 layer continuous tab. Can I lose these, and expect the newly installed ribs & stringers to provide the support for necessary stiffness?

2) What is the recommended spacing on the ribs?

3) I can't be sure if the old bulkheads were original, but they appear to be. They are 1/2" ply. Should I upsize to 5/8"? Would 3 layers on the continuous tabbing be sufficient?

4) The boat is not in a climate controlled facility. My average daytime temps are in the high 50s low 60s. My average nighttime temps are high 40s to low 50s. Will a low viscosity resin with fast hardener work?
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Update (Boat Specs):

Boat Make: Laurin Koster
LOA/LOD: 28' / 26'
Displacement: 6600 lbs
Mast: 33' / 160 lbs
Link: LAURIN 26 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

The attached line drawing gives the basics, but my my boat was retrofitted with a 2' bowsprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Forgot the specs guys, apologies:

Boat Make: Laurin Koster
LOA/LOD: 28' / 26'
Displacement: 6600 lbs
Mast: 33' / 160 lbs
Link: LAURIN 26 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

Yes, I have a $50 3m paint/organic respirator (with many replacement cartridges & prefilters), goggles, and tyvek suit.

I used MAS Epoxy on a kayak kit years ago and liked it, but we can't get it easily up here, so I was going to go with West System since it's available.

I'll get some recent interior photos posted later today.

The attached line drawing gives the basics, but my my boat was retrofitted with a 2' bowsprit.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Crazy idea - not even particularly cheap. Use epoxy coated ply and do a good job of tabbing it in.

For ribs, just use foam or PVC tube or even cardboard tube as formers and laminate glass over them.
Not looking for cheap, not looking for top of the line, was trying to think of something that will unquestionably last, and just enjoying considering the options and being a little creative.

Thanks for the thoughts on the ribs, the PVC is an excellent idea I hadn't thought of before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It doesn't look like the stringers and "ribs" are 1/2r. in the pix. They look somewhat rectangular but it's hard to tell. If they are, PVC tube would work fine if the right size. I thought some pipe insulation foam might also work if they were 1/2round. The size has got to pretty much on the money to make the layup come out matching. That's why I thought some insulation foam would work. It's easy to shape, unlike a styrofoam, but does make quite a dust mess. It would also bend to conform easier than pvc.
The 4 stringers (2 each side) do look rectangular, but up close when ground-out, they are about 2.5" wide x 3/4" thick, and either edge was chamfered at 45 degrees before glassing.

The foam type used on this boat was Divinycell, and appears to only have been used on these stringers and the coach roof. The stringers still in the boat do not appear to have been used for mounting hardware of any type from the factory.

My only internal debate with using foam (and I'd like to), is will it and the tabbing provide enough bite for the screws over the wear and tear of time. The foam would definitely be easier to place and conform to the hull for a professional looking install. The wood will be a bigger challenge.

Relief cuts in PVC (to get it to conform) seems like a tempting compromise, though I may want to pre drill to avoid cracking.
 
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