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If you cut the PVC in 1/2 lengthwise it gets very limber - hot melt glue will tack it in place
If there are any pieces of hardware screwed into it, I'd glass those spots solid. That would be much stronger and keep water from eventually getting in. Neither foam nor PVC will hold screws with enough strength. Foam has no strength at all to hold a screw. How are the deck-hull screws/bolts? Being open, it's s great time to check them.The 4 stringers (2 each side) do look rectangular, but up close when ground-out, they are about 2.5" wide x 3/4" thick, and either edge was chamfered at 45 degrees before glassing.
The foam type used on this boat was Divinycell, and appears to only have been used on these stringers and the coach roof. The stringers still in the boat do not appear to have been used for mounting hardware of any type from the factory.
My only internal debate with using foam (and I'd like to), is will it and the tabbing provide enough bite for the screws over the wear and tear of time. The foam would definitely be easier to place and conform to the hull for a professional looking install. The wood will be a bigger challenge.
Relief cuts in PVC (to get it to conform) seems like a tempting compromise, though I may want to pre drill to avoid cracking.
I wouldn't pre drill. You can use anything that wont get melted by the resin. I've seen cardboard mailing tube used as a former. The advantage to using 1/2 a plastic tube is that screws can get a bite in it when you put a ceiling in - no other reason.Would you predrill for the fasteners?
ABS is easier to get in our region, do you see a problem using that?
I'm assuming I should use 1" Schedule 40 cut in half?
If it's only light interior, unstressed items attached to the new parts, the PVC would be great but if you're attaching any stressed exterior hardware like grab rails or bases for blocks, solid glass would be essential. One thing I wish my boat had are some conduits to run wires through rather than just snaking all over the place through the bilge. Wiring, plumbing, water tank(s), and access are things you can customize. Also copper foil for an SSB counterpoise is a lot easier as is a grounding system. All that kind of sub-interior stuff is easy to do with the bare hull and difficult afterward.So you're saying that tabbed wood is the only way to go for ribs?
There are no deck/hull fasteners, it appears the deck and hull were glassed together at the factory.