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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I am in the process of replacing the PSS seal on our 07 Hunter 38, after removing and cleaning the rust off the original coupling it was of course loose, so I ordered a new 1.25" coupling (Buck Alcongquin) Solid coupling.

Sadly, it's a sloppy fit on my shaft. A mark where the old one was installed shows that it's undersize (cannot measure precisely at the moment). My guess would be to check what lenght I can work with if I would need to cut the shaft maybe one inch so i can get get the coupling further on untouched 1.25" stainless? Then redrill my setscrews holes etc..

Seems like a pain, the shaft will not come out without removing the rudder from what I can see.

What do you guys think? Split coupling would have the same issue. Ah when a 2 hours job turns into an expensive nightmare lol

Thanks
 

bell ringer
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when you say sloppy fit what do you mean, can just slide it on or slides on easy and you can wiggle it?

But a new coupling should have come undersize

I I just removed my shaft last week on my H410 by removing the cutlass bearing
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Don, sorry for the delay, exactly as you described, it slides on easy and has some wiggle in all directions

On my next trip I will measure the shaft end with a micrometer vs the coupling

did you remove the whole propeller shaft bracket or you had the tool to remove the cutless without removing the shaft?
 

bell ringer
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Hi Don, sorry for the delay, exactly as you described, it slides on easy and has some wiggle in all directions

On my next trip I will measure the shaft end with a micrometer vs the coupling

did you remove the whole propeller shaft bracket or you had the tool to remove the cutless without removing the shaft?
I had the yard press it out. It took a hydraulic press. Overall it cost me $295 plus a bearing. Money well spent compared to the bag of worms with dropping rudder or strunt.
 

bell ringer
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Btw did you try to get it out taking off the prop and pushing the shaft forward? It only needs to go forward enough to come out of the cutlass bearing then you can pull aft.

Maybe, but doubtful
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well after much thinking I am left with two viable options since i will not remove the shaft.

-Getting a smaller diameter coupler machined to my undersized shaft (1.225") , still need to find a machine shop
-Reusing my old coupler, and shim it with a metal sheet shim right size rolled between the shaft and coupling so it's slightly interference fit. Then just hope it's doable.

here's a picture of my shaft
Wood Automotive tire Gas Bicycle part Nickel


this is a sketchy sketch of what i would do. Anyone think it's a bad idea?
Paint Art Wood Cylinder Gas
 

bell ringer
Joined
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Well I had a new split coupling and it measured less than you shaft because it was not fit yet (I didn't use in the end). With some careful measurement with a good mike I am sure you can get a new split coupling machined to the right size and the clamp on it will be good to tighten on the shaft.

Otherwise I say your shim idea is asking for trouble and you need to get the shaft out.
 

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Agree that shimming is a bad idea. A couple of other ideas:

If you can verify that the shaft will squeak by the rudder if the cutlass is removed first, either get someone to press it out, make a press tool yourself, or just cut the shaft. Once the shaft is cut and out of the way, you can remove the cutlass bearing by slitting it with a hack saw. Then put the new cutlass bearing in after the new shaft is installed. This way, you can make sure a shop fits and faces a new coupling to the new shaft and all will be new. I had to go this route with our Catalina 350 a couple of years ago, as the boat doesn't use a standard cutlass support strut and the bearing can't be pressed out.

Or, raise the motor instead of dropping the rudder, and pull the shaft out toward the inside of the boat, and go from there.
 

One of None
Hunter 34
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There are probably more automotive machine shops around you than you can count they don't have to be "Marine" shops to do what you need,

there's a process I forget what it's called, but they use welding and metal powder to increase bearing services it could possibly be done to your hub. The word magnaflux comes to mind although I could be wrong

Another thought, if you haven't damaged the new one, you could return it and get a split Hub that actually clamps around the shaft.

I have a hunter 34 it's probably not the same as yours but if you have a separate Cutlass bearing strut with four bolts holding it, you could remove that and sneak past the rudder.
 

One of None
Hunter 34
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OMG it's called Spray welding I don't expect it would be in anyone's budget but it certainly is fascinating how he replaced the diameter that was lost on that big shaft he's working on, it's a long video to but again it's fascinating
 
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