[novic]

After several months of searching (and initially aiming for a CS30), we're now the proud new owners of a CS36 on Georgian Bay. Lots of little and not so little projects to get done but overall solid condition at a reasonable price.

Given that we are fairly new to sailing, ensuring the engine is in good working order and up to date on maintenance is my first priority. So far we've taken her out for a 2.5 hour motor in calm weather and this is what we've noticed:

1)Easily cold started after using glow plug for 10-15s
1)Engine warms up to 180 as per panel gauge and stays there, even at full throttle.
2)Engine "spits" a steady stream of cooling water off transom with small amount of white smoke
3)Panel gauge indicates max RPM of 2100 at full throttle. Not sure how accurate gauge is, given gauge stays at 2100 despite audible decrease in engine rpm and boat speed when throttle is pulled back slightly.
4) As per speed log, 7.4kn at 2100, 7kn at 2100, 6kn 1900, 5kn at 1500

Not too sure about the rpms (manual states should do 2500) and the white smoke. Possibly overpropped (12X8 LH folding prop)? Anything else I should look into?

My initial plan is to do the following:
1) Change oil and filter: FRAM PH8A, generic 10/30 or Shell Rotella 10/45
2) Drain/Fill freshwater coolant: 50/50 green prestone/water
3) Drain/Fill Tranny oil: Dex III (manual specs obsolete type "A")
4) Replace raw water impeller (I'm assuming WMarine will be able to spec this part)
5) Clean raw water strainer
6) replace primary/secondary diesel filters (2x NAPA 3166 filters, one on engine compartment wall, one on engine)

Anything else I should get done asap? Any thoughts on the white smoke/decreased max rpm? For any other Canuck owners of W30 engines, any good canadian retailers for parts (impellers etc..)?

Thanks for all the help and I apologize for all the newb questions. Everything about sailing, boats, diesel engines is all new to us.

 

[sailingfool]

..
My initial plan is to do the following:
1) Change oil and filter: FRAM PH8A, generic 10/30 or Shell Rotella 10/45
2) Drain/Fill freshwater coolant: 50/50 green prestone/water
3) Drain/Fill Tranny oil: Dex III (manual specs obsolete type "A")
4) Replace raw water impeller (I'm assuming WMarine will be able to spec this part)
5) Clean raw water strainer
6) replace primary/secondary diesel filters (2x NAPA 3166 filters, one on engine compartment wall, one on engine)
...

You need to find the regions Westerbeke dealer and send him your credit card account. You are pound-foolish to put anything other than Westerbeke parts into that engine, especially the filter and the impeller. And absolutely use a marine oil that meets all the Westerbeke-specified criteria.

Be sure to replace the coolant with the same type of coolant, again check the owners manual for specified criteria.

Add replacing the engine zinc to your list and consider back-flushing the cooling system to get the old zinc material out of the heat exchanger.

 

[Faster]

... and more important, update your profile so you don't show up as a default USA-ian!

 

[jimrafford]

Check the pencil zinc in the heat exchanger! I had a piece of the zinc block the elbow for to out flow at a less than convenient time.
JIm

 

[deniseO30]

westies are notorious for failed glow coil fuses, relays and wiring. The heat exchangers clog easy also from the many discussions I've read on them..

 

[JimsCAL]

I suspect your tach is not working correctly. With a 12x8 prop you should actually be under, not over propped. One source recommends something like a 13x10 or 14x11 for that engine depending on the gear reduction. Start by getting the tach calibrated.

 

[mitiempo]

You are pound-foolish to put anything other than Westerbeke parts into that engine, especially the filter and the impeller

Take the impeller to a good marine dealer - not a Westerbeke parts house. It is very likely a Jabsco which should be a third of the $165 Westerbeke lists it for.

 

[boatpoker]

Add replacing the engine zinc to your list and consider back-flushing the cooling system to get the old zinc material out of the heat exchanger.

The OP is in fresh water. Zinc anodes don't work, they must be magnesium.

 

[novic]

Thanks everyone for the information. Profile info updated

Will definitely add checking the heat exchanger and anode to the to do list.
Mitipiempo: thanks for the impeller tip!
boatpoker: do you know where I could source a magnesium pencil anode ?

How much smoke should a marine diesel produce? Is the small amount of white smoke I'm noticing something to be concerned with, or within normal operating limits? The smoke dissipates within 1-2 feet behind the boat.

One additional oddity about this engine is the fuel filtration setup. There appears to be two CAV type filters hooked up in series, one on the engine, one mounted to the engine bay wall, both have identical filter elements installed. The Westerbeke service manual seems to suggest the primary filter should be a sedimenter/see through type filter which is nowhere to be found on this boat. Should I go ahead and delete the primary CAV filter on the wall and replace with a Racor type filter or simply leave well enough alone and replace both filter elements.

 

[Maine Sail]

Not too sure about the rpms (manual states should do 2500) and the white smoke. Possibly overpropped (12X8 LH folding prop)? Anything else I should look into?

No way you are over propped if those prop numbers are accurate. Factory supplied Martec Folder was 18" x 12" x 1", Gori was 16.5" x 11" x 1" fixed two blade was 16" x 13" x 1"... Check the prop size and tach calibration...

 

[boatpoker]

Thanks everyone for the information. Profile info updated

Will definitely add checking the heat exchanger and anode to the to do list.
Mitipiempo: thanks for the impeller tip!
boatpoker: do you know where I could source a magnesium pencil anode ?

How much smoke should a marine diesel produce? Is the small amount of white smoke I'm noticing something to be concerned with, or within normal operating limits? The smoke dissipates within 1-2 feet behind the boat.

One additional oddity about this engine is the fuel filtration setup. There appears to be two CAV type filters hooked up in series, one on the engine, one mounted to the engine bay wall, both have identical filter elements installed. The Westerbeke service manual seems to suggest the primary filter should be a sedimenter/see through type filter which is nowhere to be found on this boat. Should I go ahead and delete the primary CAV filter on the wall and replace with a Racor type filter or simply leave well enough alone and replace both filter elements.

Sorry, I don't know where to get magnesium anodes, maybe Mainesail can chime in, he knows more about CS36's than anyone. I'd recommend a Racor type primary with the clear bowl, it makes it much easier to monitor the condition of the fuel and the filter. Maybe if you posted a photo of the exhaust smoke we may be able to offer and opinion but a "small amount" is a little too subjective.

 

[mitiempo]

Smoke or steam?

 

[novic]

Mainesail, good pickup. I went back to the survey and the prop is a 18 x 12 folder. Brand/pitch not specified. Seems like an awful lot of prop to me, but I suppose that's within factory specs. Next time I'm at the boat, I'll take some pictures of the transom exhaust. I can't say I can tell the difference between steam and smoke, best I can describe is it looks like what comes out of everyone's tailpipe on a cold winter day. Smells like Diesel though.

 

[Faster]

Steam will dissipate a short distance from the transom, smoke will leave a lingering 'trail' if it's calm. White smoke is often an indication of a coolant leak, as antifreeze burns white. But overly warm water(vapour) looks white too until it condenses away.

 

[novic]

Well, I guess what I'm seeing is possibly some steam. I'll keep an eye on things for now, especially the coolant, get the maintenance done, get a manual tach to compare to the gauge and hope for the best. In the meantime, going to get ready to go do some sailing

 

[deniseO30]

Novic.. maybe you're obsessing over things just a bit? Make sure all the fluids are right and use the boat. Just check coolant level after you are actually using the engine more.

Buyers remorse will make you dig and dig at things until you finally find the one thing that makes you say AH HA!! I KNEW I SHOULDN'T HAVE BOUGHT THIS BOAT!!"

 

[AlaskaMC]

Novic.. maybe you're obsessing over things just a bit? Make sure all the fluids are right and use the boat. Just check coolant level after you are actually using the engine more.

Buyers remorse will make you dig and dig at things until you finally find the one thing that makes you say AH HA!! I KNEW I SHOULDN'T HAVE BOUGHT THIS BOAT!!"

Great line!!! I have been guilty of this before but never able to put it cohesively to others! You nailed it.

 

[novic]

Denise,
I won't deny that I can certainly be a bit OCD about things However, in this case, it's also a bit difficult for me to assess what is and isn't normal as I have next to no experience with sailboats and diesel engines. I really appreciate everyone's input, as I now have a few ideas about things to look out for and projects to tackle.

And no worries about buyers remorse. Although probably a bit on the big side for our "starter" boat, our previous largest vessel being a 16ft canoe, so far we love the CS!

Thanks again everyone, and I'm sure I'll be coming up with all sorts of newbie questions.

 

[deniseO30]

Oh.. I know that feeling! my son and I used to build canoes LOL

 

[BarryL]

Hey,

Congrats on the new boat. I know it's not easy, but try not to obsess to much about things. Really, if the engine ran fine for 2+ hours and didn't burn or leak anything, it must be in decent condition. Change the fluids so you have good baseline, then enjoy the boat.

A few minor points:
-Without a clear bowl on one of the fuel filters you really have no way of knowing what's in the tank. One of my fears with old boats is sediment being stirred up in rough seas and clogging the filter. With a clear bowl you can at least get some indication of the tank condition.
-Do you have engine driven refrigeration? If so, there another type of heat exchange with another anode.
-While are working in the engine compartment be cause to check the stuffing box for drips, leaks, etc. That may require some maintenance as well.

Take care,
Barry