[SSBN506]

NuTeaks C-Flor installed on a Catalina 30 (Video)

Hi Everyone

I have been working on a few projects and recording them. I found it very hard to find much info or examples online of synthetic flooring on a sailboat. I have a few others but I wont post them all. But feel free to look at my other projects. The cost of the project with glue and flooring was about 800.00 Canadian.

Flooring before and after.

Time laps of the beginning of the project.

Review and look around.

I recorded most of the install and will put of a video of that when I finish editing it.

 

[svHyLyte]

Nice work. Can that material be used on weather decks?

 

[Donna_F]

I love the way it looks. But right now I have non-slip area rugs and it's easy for me to just hose down the floor and wipe or air dry. Would that work with this flooring? Would water seep underneath through the seams?

 

[socal c25]

Nice work. Can that material be used on weather decks?

Yes it can, My friends Erickson 27 is done inside and out. Here is a pic of the deck.

 

[SSBN506]

Nice work. Can that material be used on weather decks?

They have an exterior product also. It is what is called NuTeak. The interior what I installed is called c-flor. C-flor is interior only.

 

[SSBN506]

I love the way it looks. But right now I have non-slip area rugs and it's easy for me to just hose down the floor and wipe or air dry. Would that work with this flooring? Would water seep underneath through the seams?

My two year old threw up on it and it cleaned up no problem. I also had a leaky hatch and had a big pool of water that did not seep into or between anything.(hatch is now patched up) But I spent a lot of time making shore the seams were tight. But I could se that being a problem if you weren't carful. Water wont get underneath as you trowel glue to place it on like thin set with tile.

 

[davidpm]

The end joints all line up. Is that what the directions recommended?

 

[SSBN506]

The end joints all line up. Is that what the directions recommended?

Good eyes no they don't. I intend to go over that decision on my install video. But basically I couldn't figure out how to do in in sections like I did if it were staggered. I would have had to do the floor in one session. But where you cant kneel on it when it is wet their was no room to do it that way. Spreading the glue was the problem as I would have had to bring some of it back up after I did a section or not put the glue down in a square patch.

I also justified in my mind lining the ends up as that is how they do it with real teak on al lot of smaller boats like mine.

 

[svHyLyte]

WOW!!! That is without a doubt the most handsome Ericson I have ever seen!!! Good for You!!!

Yes it can, My friends Erickson 27 is done inside and out. Here is a pic of the deck.

 

[SSBN506]

WOW!!! That is without a doubt the most handsome Ericson I have ever seen!!! Good for You!!!

I am also very impressed. What a great way to restore an older boats decks.

 

[Tanley]

Good eyes no they don't. I intend to go over that decision on my install video. But basically I couldn't figure out how to do in in sections like I did if it were staggered. I would have had to do the floor in one session. But where you cant kneel on it when it is wet their was no room to do it that way. Spreading the glue was the problem as I would have had to bring some of it back up after I did a section or not put the glue down in a square patch.

I also justified in my mind lining the ends up as that is how they do it with real teak on al lot of smaller boats like mine.

Having a hard time understanding your reasoning on this, can you elaborate a bit more? The product looks decent but the seams may be an issue for you moving forward. It looks like you just needed to cut short a few of the 'teak' and 'holy' strips length wise to stagger the pattern. It would have resulted in a more random seam line and limited flex of the material due to such a large seam length. You can apply the glue/mastic on the back of the boards if you needed to stop the project at any point. This is common for tile setters in tight spaces. Wondering if I'm not understanding your restrictions on the project.

Either way nice job and I'm sure it looks better than before.

 

[SSBN506]

Having a hard time understanding your reasoning on this, can you elaborate a bit more? The product looks decent but the seams may be an issue for you moving forward. It looks like you just needed to cut short a few of the 'teak' and 'holy' strips length wise to stagger the pattern. It would have resulted in a more random seam line and limited flex of the material due to such a large seam length. You can apply the glue/mastic on the back of the boards if you needed to stop the project at any point. This is common for tile setters in tight spaces. Wondering if I'm not understanding your restrictions on the project.

Either way nice job and I'm sure it looks better than before.

I thought about buttering the tile as I think they call it. The glue didn't spread as well as thin set and was way more messy. I wasn't convinced I could do it without making a mess. I was not suggesting it couldn't be done someone more talented than I could pull off the stager.

Your suggestion of just cutting the ends a bit, I wish I has thought off that. I was thinking one board would sick out three feet past the last. But maybe one foot between would be fine. for the next person to do I suppose. I will add a not to the video on that suggestion for others to consider.

 

[SSBN506]

Having a hard time understanding your reasoning on this, can you elaborate a bit more? The product looks decent but the seams may be an issue for you moving forward. It looks like you just needed to cut short a few of the 'teak' and 'holy' strips length wise to stagger the pattern. It would have resulted in a more random seam line and limited flex of the material due to such a large seam length. You can apply the glue/mastic on the back of the boards if you needed to stop the project at any point. This is common for tile setters in tight spaces. Wondering if I'm not understanding your restrictions on the project.

Either way nice job and I'm sure it looks better than before.

I should have asked before but what issues do you force with the seams. It is to late for me but might be useful information for anyone ells who starts the same project and finds this thread.

 

[Tanley]

I should have asked before but what issues do you force with the seams. It is to late for me but might be useful information for anyone ells who starts the same project and finds this thread.

Quite possibly nothing at all, but over time you may see flexing at the seams. Wood floors are normally laid with staggered seams/joints for both aesthetic and structural reasons. Putting aesthetics aside, forces applied in proximity to a seam tend to flex or bend at that seam. Repeated over time, the joint will open more and more, often across the entire length of the seam. The impact would be compounded on some salon floors as they have a curved surface and a relatively small area of active foot traffic (more stress cycles/time). The thickness of the flooring material and the substrate it's applied to are also factors.

When the pieces are staggered, a weave is created in that plane. Adjacent boards won't share as long of a perpendicular seam so when a force is applied, it's distributed across the larger solid surface area of the material and a much shorter joint. The force is absorbed by the surrounding boards as opposed to the space in the seam.

 

[SSBN506]

Quite possibly nothing at all, but over time you may see flexing at the seams. Wood floors are normally laid with staggered seams/joints for both aesthetic and structural reasons. Putting aesthetics aside, forces applied in proximity to a seam tend to flex or bend at that seam. Repeated over time, the joint will open more and more, often across the entire length of the seam. The impact would be compounded on some salon floors as they have a curved surface and a relatively small area of active foot traffic (more stress cycles/time). The thickness of the flooring material and the substrate it's applied to are also factors.

When the pieces are staggered, a weave is created in that plane. Adjacent boards won't share as long of a perpendicular seam so when a force is applied, it's distributed across the larger solid surface area of the material and a much shorter joint. The force is absorbed by the surrounding boards as opposed to the space in the seam.

Thanks for the explanation. I assume where the flooring isn't interlocking it will be less of a problem. But the glue probable has made it basically interlocking.