Thank you Bill. I'm very tempted to follow your example. That would remove two fittings and at least 5 feet of hose. Although it will be some time before I ever discharge overboard (I'll be on the Great Lakes for at least 5 more years), it'd be nice to be able to select the time to discharge. There is a Whale pump already in the setup to allow one to discharge from the holding tank. I can't think of any advantage to keeping the direct overboard discharge. The only problem that I have is that I'll have to remove the Y-fitting at the seacock (I'm going to bring the pipe wrenches to the boat tomorrow to assess just how difficult that is going to be). Actually, I wonder if they make a plug, that I could replace the hose barb fitting with and then not have to go to the trouble of removing the Y.We are pretty close to the West Marine recommended system.
Everything always goes into the holding tank. We do have a vented loop between the head and holding tank as the lip of the toilet bowl is lower than the top of the holding tank. We have a Henderson diaphragm pump for discharging the holding tank as I consider it more reliable than an electric pump. The through hull is kept shut and padlocked inside the USA. Outside the USA the system allows us to choose the time and place of making an overboard discharge.
The level in the tank is monitored with a SCAD/Ferriello gauge. We have both the external tape sensor and the PVC internal pipe sensor. We are currently using the pipe sensor. We have a 4" Beckson clear deck plate in the tank top below which hangs a fishing bobber. If I can see the bobber floating, the tank is full.
The tank is full.
1988 PSC 34
Did you do this conversion yourself Bill? I've done a lot of plumbing work on houses, however I haven't yet done any work on the bronze thru-hulls. Would one use regular teflon tape on the threaded fittings or is there a special (probably much more expensive) product that is used to help assure a waterproof seal on the threads?
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