I'd go further and say any interior semigloss, though I would opt for a better brand (Bejamin Moore for ex.).Probably any good paint would stick well over that, but you might want to check with Smith's and the paint company before using any particular product, in case either of them has had issues.
I would expect any good white enamel paint to do, followed in price and durability by bilge paint, urethane paint, and epoxy paint. For non-commercial use, plain white enamel paint probably will do. And since it is a boat, you might add a packet of mildew preventive into it as well. (Again, check with both makers for compatibility issues.)
You may not need a primer, but you still need an undercoat.Thanks, guys for the good advice. I have called Smith's in California, the firm that makes the clear penetrating epoxy sealer. They say that the CPES itself is a primer, so there is no need to further prime the surface, nor is there a need to scuff it up for tooth. Any paint will work, but the best is probably a two-part epoxy paint. I think that I may go get some Benjamin Moore enamel at Home Depot. Any objections?
Glad to help, shisaisamaThanks, Classic30. You are probably right about an undercoat, for the reason of flexing timbers, that you give, and because the wood is now so dark that the white finish that I hope for will probably take two coats or white paint to achieve. Can you suggest a flexible two-pack undercoat? Manufacturer? Type of paint? Also, is Valspar the best enamel to use as a top coat? I have heard that Benjamin Moore makes some very good paint. Opinions?
Shisaisama, if that's what you're up against, I would suggest going with the two-pack undercoat option. If the colour is close (presumably "white" - whatever that is) you might get lucky and only need one top-coat of your selected one-pack enamel finish.Classic30,
Thanks for the additional help. I hope that I don't have to give the ceiling (inside of topsides) the four coats that you recommend. The 4" planks are separated by 1.5" frames on six-inch centers, and all are riveted to 3" x 3" stringers on 18" centers. Needless to say, there are lots of nooks and crannies to get at! And now I am only dealing with the seven-foot main cabin on a 36' boat!
Not very long, I painted last year, so not sure how it will stand up. But it is an exterior paint with UV blocks, which is not even needed down below, so I'm hoping it will last a few years and stay white.SVTatia,
Thanks for the comment. I have seen the Rust-Oleum marine paint at Lowes. Tell me: How long has it been since you used it down below?
I think you already know the answer to that. To find out what is really going on down there, you're going to have to get them out... and then use a hundred bucks worth of CPES to either (1) help fix any problems or (2) make sure they can't happen in future.Now, I have a REAL doozy of a problem for you all. Down deep in the wine-glass shaped bilge of my boat are buried two copper or bronze water tanks. They are fastened there I don't know how, but very well fastened indeed. Although I would expect to find some surface rot down there, I am loath to pull the tanks out to inspect and treat the planks around them. Smith's CPES is so expensive (almost $100 per two-quart kit) that I hesitate to just pour it down the planks into the bilge hoping that it soaks in, as though I were pouring money into the boat -- an apt analogy, indeed!
What to do?!
To work properly, CPES needs a reasonably rubbish-free substrate to penetrate into. It isn't hard to guess what else may have penetrated into the timber down there already and what your nice clean roller will look like once you poke it under there!!Drat, Classic30 ! Isn't there another way to skin this cat? Perhaps a skinny 4" roller cover soaked in CPES on the end of a sprung roller a foot and a half long slipped gingerly over the convex surface of the bilge? There is a bit of a gap between tanks and sump, you know......