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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Paint instructions rant :laugher

I am not using names to avoid any bashing problems and the job is coming out good

Let me begin buy saying that I use to own a home based custom Bicycle frame business and did all my own painting for many years . I always used PPG DCC two part polyurethane with there epoxy primer and just followed the instructions and used the catalyst for the temperature range I was working in and it always worked like on TV ;)



I was really pained about using this paint but it seemed to offer better saltwater protection and it even seemed like the instructions were OK, But now I know the instructions are really kind of guidelines and you will need to experiment with the different reducers a bit for the best results (it really says this in the instructions) and it will sort of dry somewhere between 16 hours and 3 days depending on how well your WAG worked

So I will start with the two-part zinc chromate, vinyl butyral self etch primer, It is well packaged but if you going to make me mix it 7 to 1 and charge 72 dollars a quart you could do a bit better then putting the catalyst in a glass jar and leavening it up to me to have a good syringe to measure the 28 ML required to mix my pot correctly

I will say it sprayed well and seems to work well


Now on to the primer for 2-Part Polyurethane finishes.

If you going to put peanut butter in a can you might want to mention it in the instructions so your customers don’t have to call the support line to be sure they did not get a bad can ,it mixed at 3 to 1 so it was not as critical

I have to say that it sprayed, dried and wet sanded well within the times on the chart

Now were ready for the final finish after you have spent a lot of time on prep and made it through two steps with a smile you really wont be happy trying to get the lids off without destroying them 

Now we are mixing at 2 to1 so it is really pretty easy to get right. BUT why do you put a pull out pour sport on a can of paint that you need to remove the lid on to mix all the solids that are on the bottom and NOT put one on the catalyst that does not require mixing ,remember the lids were made buy Dr EVIL :mad:

So now for the fun you have to thin it a maximum of 10% buy volume, But beyond having a thinner for brushing and one for spraying and saying that for the best results you may have to make your own mix of the two thinners for it to work Wag time begins

So the first coat went on well BUT the tech says I need to wet sand between coats and wipe it down with the solvent NOT, because it was not ready to be wet sanded buy following the drying times in the instructions to overcoat between 16 hours and 3 days at 60 deg

So anyway after a bit of annoyance and waiting a full 24 hours the second coat went on well but had a few small fisheyes from trying to follow the tech advise.
I can live with considering I am now scared to put it back on a race boat because I know it is going to get dinged up :eek:



If I had just waited 24 hours and shot the second coat I feel pretty sure it would have gone on fine just like all the other two part paints I have used

I have to say what really annoys me is that I never even had a heated place to work before and now that I have a shop with a fume hood and safe 24 hour heat I have to figure out what works myself because the instructions are so vague:laugher
 

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Hey Tommy,
Part of the issue are the rapidly changing VOC laws we're living with. Wait till they mandate zero-VOC industrial finishes. Then you'll be using a butter knife to apply!
Have you ever tried the water-borne catalyzed lacquers? I've seen some beautiful finishes from them, applied with HVLP, but I don't know which ones stand up to the outside.
Mike
 

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Been there, done that. Costs about seventy bucks to figure out how much to thin it just right and whatta ya gonna spray it on to figure it out? Everything learned will ensure that your buddy's boat comes out great...how come you didn't get such great results, when you spent twice as much? :eek:
 
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