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Schooner Captain
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Discussion Starter #1
It is time to start researching our next project in earnest.
Our boat has a paint issue. The hull above the waterline has a few places the old owner let it rub on the dock, down to bare fiberglass.
I understand there are a few products for above the waterline.
Awl-grip comes to mind first. A neighbor of ours in New York painted his with a 2 part epoxy from Caterpillar? Not sure what else is out there.

We will be changing the color to a darker hue.

So the question is this. If I take it all down to bare fiberglass must I do something special before painting with the 2 part epoxy paint? Does it need a barrier coat above the waterline?

The second part of the project is below the waterline.
I need to effect a repair on the bow. We lost a bit of fiberglass when we mounted a cleat on the old dock. So I was planning to take off a 4' wide swath of paint and gelcoat on the bow, add about 4 additional layers of glass(for additional ice/impact strength) then seal it back up. Here I would use awl-grip. Do I use something over the awl-grip before the bottom coat?

The third and almost final part of this time out of the water are the thru-hulls. Right now we have too many. 8 total, below the waterline.

I am going to back it down to:
engine cooling water
generator cooling water ( we may use the same for both, as when do we really need to run both the main, and generator?)
AC intake water

We will eliminate
sink drain
two head intakes
two head drains

We will be flushing with fresh water, and plumbing all drains into the black tank, where they can be pumped out, or macerated overboard.

What is the best method to close up these old holes?


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Interlux makes a good two part paint called perfection. You need to use the appropriate primer for any topside paint. Interlux has a pretty good website on diy painting. Barrier coat not required above waterline.

For below waterline I would recommend a barrier coat, about 2-3 coats followed by 2-3 coats of bottom paint. If using ablative use a different color for first coat, acts as a marker that its close to time to add.

To fill holes left by through hulls grind down and expand area, then build back up with wetted cloth using progressively larger circles of glas cloth. West system website has a good tutorial (geougen brothers).

Bombay Explorer 44
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There are quite a number of threads in this forum on this topic. You may need a google search to find them.

I will hit a few of the high spots for you.

How were you think of applying the Awlgrip, if spraying be very aware of the health risks.

If roll and tip I would use Perfection

Unless you are absolutely certain that your current paint is 2 component polyurethane do the thinners test.

You MUST prime bare fiberglass.

Close the holes by grinding out to a 12 to 1 bevel half inside half outside. Use epoxy and glass cloth to build up the thickness. Start from the outside. Have a piece of drafting mylar or similar to tape to the hull and prevent the epoxy running.

West system has some good diy guides. See WEST SYSTEM | Use Guides

Do not apply Awl grip to the repair if you are going to apply antifouling, I have a/f direct onto West epoxy with no problems.

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my color inspiration was are first big boat a 1981 J24

you really gotta drive the sanders careful or the boat will look like a golf-ball

i scraped off and sanded about a billion pounds of old paint :eek:

And waited out the weather to roll & tip Alwgrip as if you rush the humidty the gloss will be for CRAP

Dont get me started about perfection and the lids that wont come off

Or the massive recall of three shades of white on my labor

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My plan is to roll it. Spraying is such a waste of material.
The safety precautions necessary to spray 2 part polyurethane safely are strict, and the tiniest slip up will kill you. Good idea to roll it on.
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