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Chastened
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Hi Greg,

P30 #255 here.

First of all, there is NO bilge pump that you could fit to the boat with any practicality, that could keep up with a 2" puncture below the waterline. I can email you a research paper with some facts, if you'd like. I'm unable to attach the file here.

Second, we have shallow bilge sumps due to the way our boats are built.
It's a bit of a squeeze to fit larger bilge pumps down there. The earlier boats have a bit of a deeper sump than the newer boats. What hull number are you?

Now all that being said, I have the Rule 500 integrated float switch bilge pump, and I do plan to upgrade.

My research indicates that I could probably fit the 1100 or maybe the 1500 gph model. These pumps are oval shaped, and will fit into the narrow sump. Once you get to 2000 GPH the pumps are round, and too fat, and probably too tall. If your sump is the shallower version, you may only be able to fit the 1100 or 1000 gph model.

There is considerable debate about the merits of the integrated float switch pumps. Some people have had difficulties with these pumps. Mine has never failed though. Unfortunately, there is very little room in the sump for a separate float switch.

I have a Whale Urchin manual bilge pump installed, and when you mount the strainer box and the integrated float switch bilge pump, there is NO room for a separate float switch, I'm sorry to say.

My preferred configuration, is either the Rule Mate 1100 or 1500 (depending on which one you can fit into the bilge) backed up with the Whale Gusher or Whale Titan manual bilge pumps. Either of these manual pumps move a fair amount of water (especially if you use the larger of the optional hose fittings), they mount through the bulkhead, so that you can pump while driving the boat. They are very practical for the Pearson 30.

I was delivering another P30 from Baltimore last fall, when the auto bilge pump blew a fuse. The engine cooling water pump had a leak that we didn't know about, and we took water over the cabin sole. The Gusher manual pump cleared the water very quickly.

Rule Mate 1100
Rule Mate 1500

Whale Titan
Whale Gusher

Hope this helps,

Rich
 

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I just installed a Whale SuperSub Smart IC Automatic bilge in our Catalina 27. It's long skinny low-profile form factor, no need for extra switch, and ability to pickup close to the bilge floor were ideal for our long skinny and relatively shallow bilge.

Another benefit was it's stepped intake that supported the existing 1 inch hose

Haven't fired it up yet so can't speak to its performance or reliability.

Josh
 

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I am lucky in that the Cal 29 sump has two levels which allows two pumps to be installed

The higher pump never gets wet unless the low pump fails and as the boat is on a remote mooring this gives me a bit more safety

BUT as bubblehead has pointed out there is NOT a pump made that will keep ahead of even a very minor failure SO I focus my efforts on keeping things in good condition :)

I also have one stick pump and one manual diaphragm pump
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to need to go from a 3/4" port to a 1 1/8" port. Is there much involved in doing so?

My P-30 is hull #879. A 1976 model.
 

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Some people will argue against this, but I combined the two discharges with a "Y", to a single 1 1/8" through-hull.

The y was also 1 1/8", supplied by Whale. I bought some couplers and fitting at West Marine to step up the electric pump discharge from 3/4" to 1 1/8".
 

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If you do not have room for a conventional float switch like the Rule I bet a Waterwitch would fit. It s 2 5/8 x 1 5/8 x 1 5/8 with no moving parts.
https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html

Another option is the Rule Eco switch which is not installed in the bilge.
Rule Air Operated Bilge Pump Eco Switch #39(12V): Trotac


The Whale Supersubs are good pumps, I have one of the manual ones and am impressed. I haven't tried the Smart IC automatic versions yet.
 

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I have two Rulemate 750s with automatic switches in the bilge.

I tried to clean out the bilge with a garden hose with just a single 750 in the bilge. It emptied the water faster than I could fill it.

Here is my YouTube video of the testing of the second pump:

 

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I now believe the ultimate set up is 4 bilge pumps, each with a separate hose to the transom: 2 automatics, a manual operated from the cockpit and a manual operated from in the cabin. I still need to install that fourth pump below decks...

You should also have beefed up battery power and a solar panel/wind charger to keep your batteries charged at all times between visits, in addition to the alternator on the engine for cruising.
 

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As bilge pump switches were mentioned above...a lot of people seem to like the Ultra Pump Switch Jr...it is pricy, but it appears to mount onto the bilge pump itself. I don't have any experience with this as my float switch still works well (they either seem to fail quickly or last a while)...but I will likely switch to one of these at some point...
 

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I now believe the ultimate set up is 4 bilge pumps, each with a separate hose to the transom: 2 automatics, a manual operated from the cockpit and a manual operated from in the cabin. I still need to install that fourth pump below decks...

You should also have beefed up battery power and a solar panel/wind charger to keep your batteries charged at all times between visits, in addition to the alternator on the engine for cruising.
You're seriously going to have 4 separate hull penetrations on your transom?

That garden hose is still not delivering the same amount of water that a 2 inch hole below the waterline will deliver. The high pressure nozzle might make it seem that way, but the nozzle actually restricts flow from the hose in order to cause a high pressure discharge. Pressure and volume are not the same thing.

To each their own, but 4 pumps with 4 separate through hulls is a bit much for me.
 

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Learning the HARD way...
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As bilge pump switches were mentioned above...a lot of people seem to like the Ultra Pump Switch Jr...it is pricy, but it appears to mount onto the bilge pump itself. I don't have any experience with this as my float switch still works well (they either seem to fail quickly or last a while)...but I will likely switch to one of these at some point...
I have an Ultra Bilge Pumpswitch JR, and would not go back to the Rule float switch - ever.

The Ultra switches have a float that works in conjunction with a magnetic reed switch, so that they never clog, and under normal circumstances, should never stick. It fastens to the bilge pump, and does not require fastening to the bottom of the bilge. (How many of you have put holes in your bilge so that you can screw the bilge pumps to the bottom of your bilge?) In addition, they have an LED embedded into the top of the switch, that is illuminated if there is power to the switch. This is a very simple idea, draws almost no current, and makes verifying the operation of the switch (I hesitate to call it "troubleshooting") a breeze.

I see that Ultra Safety Systems has just introduced a "Mini" version;

If one of these will fit in your bilge, I highly recommend it.
 
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Oh yes... the best time to swap out your bilge pump, and bilge pump switch, is while your current setup is still working. Think about that...
 
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Oh yes... the best time to swap out your bilge pump, and bilge pump switch, is while your current setup is still working. Think about that...
I know...and I agree with your sentiment...it is on the short list of things to do for the upcoming year. Glad to hear you are happy with your Ultra Pumpswitch, as I plan to change to one...
 

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The venerable old P30 simply does not have enough space/room to install a BIG pump in its very shallow bilge. Have you considered to mount a piston/diaphragm pump in the 'wet locker' in the head (behind the fold down shelf) and simply put (only) a stainer/hose/pump switch in the 'bilge'?

Its VERY important to keep the bilge of a P30 very dry ... as the base of the compression post also includes a wooden wedge - under all that FRG tabbing in the bilge; and, if that wedge begins to rot the main bulkhead will shift and will no longer adequately support the MAST.
 

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You're seriously going to have 4 separate hull penetrations on your transom?...
To each their own, but 4 pumps with 4 separate through hulls is a bit much for me.
Actually this would be a 6th hole - there are already 3 bilge pump exhausts, an engine exhaust and a fuel tank vent, plus the backstay chainplate and 2 ladder stanchion plates.

The Pearson transom is solid fiberglass, quite sturdy and, typical of the IOR designs, raised off the water. (In fact, you yourself must have experienced how tough the Pearson fiberglass is when you attempted to drill/cut/saw it.) All my installed pipes have a raised vent loop, so no danger of a backflow syphon effect. I don't see any harm in putting another exhaust in the transom - it still looks good, too.
 

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RichH-

I'm keenly aware of the mast step flaw in the P30. it was one of the very first things I checked before I bought the boat. It's all in fine shape. The boat was well maintained in its life, and I keep that forward bilge bone-dry. In fact, it's always dry. I've never had to sponge it out.

James-

To each his own. I'll not judge you, but that's just too many holes for me.
I don't even have the bilge space to pull off that pump configuration, even if I wanted to.
 
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