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Discussion Starter #1
PSC and Sailnet Gurus . . .

I'd like to remove the teak trim pieces in the cockpit on each side of the companionway so I can completely revarnish them and so I can remove the teak seahood and revarnish that as well. It looks like the trim pieces (i.e., that hold the washboards in place) are not only screwed in, but polyurethane glued as well (from the factory). Do you have any recommendations on how to cleanly deal with the glue without damaging either the teak or the fiberglass its glued to?

I have Boatlife Release Adheasive and Sealant Remover, and I'm aware of Debond Marine Formula as well, but it seams like it'd be quite a chore to get these to penetrate the tight space between the fiberglass and the trim. I also have a heat gun and various sharp knives I could attempt to use for the job.

Can anyone recommend the "best" approach?

Regards,
MC1
 

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Are the screw heads accessible?

It all seems like a big job with a fair chance of damage.

Is it that difficult to sand and varnish while in place?
 

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Leverage ....

We pulled the two teak trim pieces off the companionway recently to replace them and coincidentally also have our seahood in the gargage to strip and varnish. There were four screws in each board and the teak lifted off faily easily by prying from the top. There was no issue taking the teak off and no damage to the gelcoat by pulling them off. Just pull or pry slowly allowing the glue to release. It will come off easier than you think.
 

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On my PSC37 the side pieces are held on by 2 screws - under plugs. Drill the plugs and unscrew. Pry off (mine came of easily).
I redid the hood and thise side pices a couple years ago - but apparently did a rotten job, cos I need to do it again this year! :-(

If re-building the sea hood, you'll want to make a template of the curve. (Another alternative, spend $1200 and get a fibreglass replacement from PSC! :) and never worry again! )

Bill
s/v Toodle-oo!
PSC37 #148
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm surprised to hear the glue is willing to let go fairly easily. Thanks for the info., I'll give it a try.

MC1
PSC 34 #307
 

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Well on my PSC37 these parts fell off!! The screws pulled out of the glass, and if there was ever any glue on there, it didn't do anything. This seems to have been the result of over enthusiastic closing of the hatch, for which these parts double as a stop.
If you do find that there is caulking/adhesive holding these parts on after you remove the screws (which should be easy to remove), you may want to try a thin piece of stainless wire wrapped around a couple of pieces of dowel to form a handle on each end (think "cheese wire"). Saw this back and forth between the teak and the glass as someone pulls the teak forward.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ah yes, the piano wire idea . . . now that you mention it I do recall having read similar suggestions for dealing with removing winches / etc. that were mounted with 5200. I'll keep some wire on hand in case the project gives me any grief. Thanks for the thought. I'm surprised to hear yours fell off (I mean the teak trim of course) . . . the polyurethane is usual quite stubborn.
 

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s/v Pelagic
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If you find there is adhesive the Debond Marine does work. I started taking off my rub rails to replace the chainplates (gave that up and just pulled them out) and got about 1/3 of the starboard one off. It takes some time and a few small wood wedges but I was amazed that it got the 5200 to release.

John
s/v Pelagic
C37 #22
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Me too. Let us know what happens.
Jury is in . . .

I drilled out the teak plugs, backed out the screws (had to use a small drill bit for a couple of them to remove some additional teak material around the screw heads) and was able to slowly pry the teak trim off in spite of the strong gluing. The glue was about 11 years old . . . don't know if that was a factor. A piece of guitar wire would have made it easier and would have resulted in less stress to the teak boards from prying.

It'll be nice if I can come up with some other approach for attaching the trim back on to the boat so they can be more easily removed later for re-varnishing. Hmm . . . :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the suggestion. For a little added strength, I was thinking of putting some stainless steel threaded anchors into the fiberglass to receive machine screws, then foregoing the glue as you suggest. I'd probably use loctite blue on the machine screws to discourage them from backing out.
 

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I use a putty knife and a hammer to seperate the wood from the fiberglass, just pry with the putty knife until you get to a stubborn spot and then gently use the hammer to tap to get past it. Polyurthane the entire piece and when dry you can use silione sealeant on the bottom side to prevent dirt from acculating under the piece. don't ask me how it gets there! Place masking tape down so when silicone squeezes out when piece is tightened down, you just pull the tape up and have a clean edge.
 
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