We just recently replaced ours on Indigo from a company called Screens of Schooner Bay -screensofschoonerbay.com
Great product and customer service. We are very happy with the fit and finish, and are much better than the plastic ones we had before.
We also just ordered a full set of screens from Screens of Schooner Bay. Haven't had a chance to try them out yet, but feedback from others is very good. GREAT customer service.
BTW: We're using "Hatchmaster" screens on our Bowmar hatches.
We have the plastic frames for the screens mounted on the bronze ports. When we bought the boat the old screens were shot. We picked up some scrap nylon screen material that our canvas maker provided to us for free. Removed the plastic frames, (held on with 2 screws) and cut the old material out with an exacto knife. Used some adhesive to secure the new screen material on and after it set, trimmed with the knife and re-installed. So far they have lasted about 5 years and still look good.
We never saw the original screens as 2nd owners of the boat, but ordered replacement bronze screens from John Danicic (screens of schooner bay) like others here - when we heard he started offering them in the newer rectangular shapes to fit our 2000 PSC37.
Incidentally, John is here as a member of Sailnet.
Some time ago he posted an advertisement in one of his posts for his screen products. Which of course is a no-no here at Sailnet because the site runs partly on advertising. Pulling those kinds of posts down -- from folks who have no advertising budgets because they are essentially a small cottage industry -- is one of my least favorite tasks as a Sailnet moderator.
The normal procedure is for a moderator to remove the post and then send a note to the poster explaining the policy. Often this elicits a very nasty reply from the poster. In John's case, however, he replied very congenially and apologetically -- a perfect gentleman.
If I didn't already have a set of nylon-framed screens in perfect condition, I'd order a set from John in heartbeat knowing full well I was doing business with a class act. I'm happy to see other folks recommending his product based on first hand experience with it.
I ordered a set of screens from John for my '31. They were too big with the rubber gasket he supplies. I punched my thumb through a couple of them trying to shove them in. John was very sympathetic and when I told him of my idea to use black silicone caulk from GE, offered to repair the ripped screens for free.
By the way, the screens without the rubber gasket, I.e. just the metal frame, look great with black caulk in my bronze port lights. You need a very steady hand and don't use too much caulk because if you do, when you lay the caulk off with a finger, it gets stuck in the screen. I did the exteriors first, then the interiors once the caulk was dry and there was no danger of pushing the screen out before the caulk set.
When we bought Irish Eyes we had a collection of falling apart flimsy plastic framed screens stuck in the back of one of the cabinets. One night of bugs and I knew that had to change. We have the original oval bronze opening ports which I think came from White Water Marine. There are six large ones and four small ones. They look like the ones on the White Water Marine web site.
We also have three Bomar opening hatches; two large and one small. Then, there are the companionway opening and the doors to the anchor locker. (Yes, I watched mosquitoes come through the the louvers too.)
The anchor locker doors are now permanently screened on the forward side with fiberglass screen held in place with teak strips.
The small Bomar hatch in the head is framed, and stock white window screen hardware from Lowes works for it. The screen is held in place with two brass turnbuttons.
I jig sawed out of 1/2" plywood frames for the two larger Bowmar hatches. Grooves are routed in one side for the rubber spline that holds the screen cloth in place. They are stained and varnished. The frames wedge into the bottom of each hatch. Friction holds them in place.
The bronze port screens are similarly done except since there were several to make, I made a pattern and cut them out with a router. In the photo one is resting top up and the other is resting bottom up. You can see the routed groove that the screen spline fits into. They have velvet ribbon glued to their edges to keep the varnish from being abraided by the rough metal of the ports. Brass eye screws serve as knobs to grasp the screens when putting them in or taking them out.
The companionway has one teak framed screen that drops in where the hatch boards go and another that rests in the top opening. These two screens and the two for the large Bomar hatches are stored overhead in the vee berth held in place with bungee cords attached to the screws that were already there.
On buggy nights all the screens go in. The bugs stay out, and a little breeze comes in. On bug free nights all the screens come out, and all the breeze comes in.
I ordered some from John. Great service, nice product. Only glitch is that my 34 #286 has two different kinds of rectangular port lights. Some have the tabs inset enough to mount the screens from the inside of the cabin with the light open and some have tabs designed to mount the screens outside. I may use a little black goop to secure the outside ones even though they fit well and snugly.
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