SailNet Community banner

21 - 28 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,822 Posts
I just went over the Eternabond site again and I can’t find any description of the removable Mylar liner on any of the products. I also read about the primer and that seems to have to do with the material you are sticking to not the tape.

So I don’t know what’s up. Maybe I got a bad batch or I’ll find the Mylar when I unwind the tape roll further.

But thanks for all the help. Much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,822 Posts
OK, once again I must eat crow. It DOES have the Mylar. They held down the end of the tape with clear packing tape, which held down the clear Mylar and the tape came right off. I saw it once I got outside into the sunshine.

Anyway, I have made my repair. This the seam in the transome bladder all the way at the bottom at the keel. The material rips here due to bending. Now that I’ve “dug” into this I see they take precautions this rip does not leak. I hauled up real hard on the transome bladder, there was some additional white tape in this joint. It was not fully adhered. I pulled it out best I could, sanded the area, and framed a bit Eternabond in there. Not a lot of faith in that repair.

On the outside I cleaned up the area around the rip, I scraped it pretty hard with a knife , cleaned it with acetone, let it dry, then applied the Eternabond over the rip. I did not try to cover anything except the bladder, I can’t see anything holding over the riveted seams and thought it would only make things worse. I pressed the dickens out of it. I feels likes it’s holding.

I’ll be happy if I get 6 months, then I’ll repeat. I do have a bit of tape left over, 49’ 9”.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,129 Posts
I just went over the Eternabond site again and I can’t find any description of the removable Mylar liner on any of the products. I also read about the primer and that seems to have to do with the material you are sticking to not the tape.

So I don’t know what’s up. Maybe I got a bad batch or I’ll find the Mylar when I unwind the tape roll further.

But thanks for all the help. Much appreciated.
The removable backing is not mylar its just a clear plastic sheet which you can see the soft grey butly rubber adhesive through or a waxed paper. The face, which will be the outer surface on the roll, may be a woven material, aluminum foil or a fairly sturdy mylar plastic in white or a whatever color you chose. The tape used for pond liners for example will usually have the woven face which will provide a better base for the oil paint than the mylar face. As the video indicated sometimes the backing that covers the adhesive may not come off easily and this can be made worse if the roll was left out in the sun for an extended period of time.

The primer activates the bond between the butyl rubber and the surface your working on which is especially important when working on dirty or oxidized surfaces or with materials that do not work well with adhesives.

Perhaps this more detailed video will help:
https://youtu.be/jUvDzyiGb64
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,129 Posts
OK, once again I must eat crow. It DOES have the Mylar. They held down the end of the tape with clear packing tape, which held down the clear Mylar and the tape came right off. I saw it once I got outside into the sunshine.

Anyway, I have made my repair. This the seam in the transome bladder all the way at the bottom at the keel. The material rips here due to bending. Now that I’ve “dug” into this I see they take precautions this rip does not leak. I hauled up real hard on the transome bladder, there was some additional white tape in this joint. It was not fully adhered. I pulled it out best I could, sanded the area, and framed a bit Eternabond in there. Not a lot of faith in that repair.

On the outside I cleaned up the area around the rip, I scraped it pretty hard with a knife , cleaned it with acetone, let it dry, then applied the Eternabond over the rip. I did not try to cover anything except the bladder, I can’t see anything holding over the riveted seams and thought it would only make things worse. I pressed the dickens out of it. I feels likes it’s holding.

I’ll be happy if I get 6 months, then I’ll repeat. I do have a bit of tape left over, 49’ 9”.
Great that you got it figured out. Cleanliness and prep is critical and you do have to press hard to ensure the butyl adhesive gets into any imperfections in the surface so it won't wick. Be sure to store the remainder with the wax paper rings covering the sides and in the original container if possible. I will ensure that the roll stays clean by putting it in a large zip lock freezer bag before putting it back in the box. Be sure to store in a cool dry place to limit the adhesive oozing out the sides over time.
 

·
Cruiser
Joined
·
253 Posts
Courtesy of hurricane Florence I find myself in possession of two 10ft porta-botes, both damaged. I intend to make one usable bote from the parts.

Patient #1: has two tears/holes in the floor each about 4"x1"

Patient #2: the plastic transom is torn right along the seam. This patient is better condition overall but the tear along the seam means that the repair would be flexed/worked each time the bote is folded/unfolded.

Which patient would attempt to save? and how?
Years ago I installed a round deck plate [e.g., 3" in diameter] to the outside of the hull [so the cover was almost flush with the outside of the hull...] of my hard dink because many were being 'borrowed' in the area I was cruising.

By removing the deck plate cover [and taking it with me on shore...] and running a locking cable through the hole I was able to secure my dink. [Even if they cut the lock they wouldn't get far...]

It worked great.

Depending upon the location of the tears in the hull of patient #1, might you be able to install appropriately sized deck plates? [Using butyl tape as the sealant, and machine screws with acorn nuts (or SS rivet-nuts) as the fasteners...]

Just an idea that I have first hand experience with– but not in a Porta-Boat...

Cheers! Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I'm writing about repairing a hole in a Porta Bote transom. My PB is 15 years old and developed a hole at the base of the transom I repaired it with Dominion Sure Seal 1800-265-0790 semi rigid xpsapc/401391 and adhession promoter 42071 use promoter very sparingly.. I just returned fro two weeks fishing and repair worked great no leaks also Eternabond worked on torn transom skirt Firt time posting hope you get this to repair your PB mine has served us well for years
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I'm writing about repairing a hole in a Porta Bote transom. My PB is 15 years old and developed a hole at the base of the transom I repaired it with Dominion Sure Seal 1800-265-0790 semi rigid xpsapc/401391 and adhession promoter 42071 use promoter very sparingly.. I just returned fro two weeks fishing and repair worked great no leaks also Eternabond worked on torn transom skirt Firt time posting hope you get this to repair your PB mine has served us well for years
thanks for this update, Im curious: did you apply the Dominion Sure Seal to a a portion of the boat that flexes when you fold it? I'm wondering if this fix can withstand the flexing at the joints/hinges.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
thanks for this update, Im curious: did you apply the Dominion Sure Seal to a a portion of the boat that flexes when you fold it? I'm wondering if this fix can withstand the flexing at the joints/hinges.
Yes the back skirt that keeps the water from entering the boat between it and the transom. It showed no sign of ripping after two weeks of fishing. I was running up river for an hour most days
 
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top