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Discussion Starter #1
Need to re-bed my stanchions/pushpit as I have been getting some water through the holes. When I take them off, how do I know what, if anything, I need to do to the hole locations before I reinstall them? If the core is wet do I need to see if it will dry out?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, there is. According to the hole for my stern light wire it looks like 1/2 or 3/4 inch plywood?
 

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Here's what I did when I rebedded my stanctions on a boat I had some years ago...
Most boats do have wood cored decks. I took my power drill, put a finishing nail in the chuck with about 1/2" of the nail bent 90 degrees. Put the nail in all the holes and turned on the drill basically opening up the core and not making the holes in both layers of fiberglass any larger. After that, I filled the enlarged holes with epoxy. After that dried, I redrilled the holes. After remounting my stanctions, I knew if any water did leak thru, it would only come in contact with hardened epoxy and never soak into the wood core.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. Is potting the holes necessary or just recommended? I've never worked with epoxy before.
 

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Thanks. Is potting the holes necessary or just recommended? I've never worked with epoxy before.
It is the only way to guarantee that the core doesn't get wet. When core gets wet it doesn't remain in the area of the hole but eventually travels over a wide area. This is more common with plywood core than balsa core as the plies allow a path for the water to travel along the grain. The reason so many boats have wet core issues is because the builders didn't pot the holes properly to begin with. All fittings need re-bedding eventually or water will enter. This is especially true of stanchion bases and chainplates, the items that move the most from loads put on them. Butyl is in my opinion the best bedding compound and my deck has not had issues with water where butyl was used by CS when the boat was built. But my stanchion bases are not in cored areas.

I would definitely suggest potting the holes with epoxy. It is easy as shown in the link above. At the same time it would be a good idea to see if larger backing plates can be added to stiffen the deck in the area of the stanchion bases.
 

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I just got back from doing this for my chainplatye holes(look ate islander 36 project thread) and its easy...its very important to bevel and file the holes and if you can dry out a bit...

I just rebedded my aft lower backing plates...Im doing it in 2 stages, from below and from above...since they have those funny metal cover plates....

in any case I potted the main chainplate holes and bulkhead holes...not the aft lowers since they are easily serviced so I plan to check them every 6 months or so...

cheers

ps. you can also brush on thickened epoxy,,,you dont have to completeley seal the hole and redrill...just a swipe to seal off the wood...the lightly file away

redrilling same size holes never works out...always go big, pot then drill exact size

cheers
 

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good advise above but use an epoxy that can bond to posible damp surfaces and is reinforced with fiber/kelvar etc. for strength. Google/Bing Wet Dry 700 epoxy

note that you can insert greased screws/bolts into wet epoxy. When the epoxy cures you can un-screw the bolts and have a threaded/tapped hole.
 

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A cordless Dremel with a little cutter bit (#115) to clear out a few millimeters of core all around inside each hole before filling with thickened epoxy has worked well for me. And if it's wet in there and has soaked into the wood, I wouldn't count on significant drying taking place really.
 

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If the core is more than slightly damp it is best removed to the area where it is dry. Airing it out will not dry it. And if it remains wet the core will continue to rot away.
 

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down here stuff dries in seconds! jajaja

the point above is correct and is dependant not only on the condition of your core but your WEATHER

My advice is if you have any doubt drill over size by a big margin...dry...epoxy and seal and drill standard size...but like mitiempo says if the core is wet or damp or crumbly you are doing yourslef ni favors by simply sealing and redrilling

like mentioned on other threads there are CHEAP or budget WAYS of fixing delamineted or rotted cores without taking apart your decks

cheers
 

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good advise above but use an epoxy that can bond to posible damp surfaces and is reinforced with fiber/kelvar etc. for strength. Google/Bing Wet Dry 700 epoxy

note that you can insert greased screws/bolts into wet epoxy. When the epoxy cures you can un-screw the bolts and have a threaded/tapped hole.
most excellent advice...thats the prefect way to size holes in unknown materials...

for example most of my deckware has crappy and loose fitted holes done by previous owners or even islander...specifically the main sheet track is HIDEOUS there is no hole that is not oval or lobsided and from below it looks like crap

same for my stanchion holes, however those do get bent out of shape from useage so its not all islanders fault, jejeje
 

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I would pot the holes if you have any signs of water intrusion. Removing that first few mm of wood will let you know if there is water in the core.

If there is water in the core then you are onto a much bigger project, and one that I have no personal experience with. From reading a lot of threads it looks like the core will not dry out on it's own. Potting a wet core with epoxy can just trap the moisture, not eliminate it. It depends on how bad the situation is.

Epoxy is easy to deal with. I rebedded my stanchions one or two at a time on down days while cruising and didn't want to mess with it. If I were doing things again and back at my slip I'd pot them.
 

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you manually dry them...heaters blow driers etc...then take off all the loose stuff. pot(I preffer thickened epoxy as its easier to push into gaps and stuff and stay there)and then redrill to original size

again I stress climate, for example here it wont rain again till july...salty dry air on the boat

I have been contemplating for example making bronze bushings for my chainplate holes cause in essence if there is any moevement the bushing will wear and not the wood in the bulkhead, especially if you have water intrusion

I sealed off the bulkead edges to prevent stagnant water intrusion but I think pressed in bushings like used in motor vehicles will help prolong bulkhead life

OP sorry for the slight derail

I think if I may add that using other materials like delrin or nylon backing plates help prevent movement and water intrusion from movemeng and sealant failure thta casues decks to fail

wood os great it you constantly check it...the issue with wood backing plates for example is that wood is porous so it soaks up a lot of the leak you are trying to source so for stanchions say you had some nice nylon backing plates if you did have a leak and your deck holes are epoxied the only inconvenience would be extra bilge water

its extremely important to never add sealant from BELOW ever ever ever...if there is a leak you want to see it and fix it from above on any deck mounted hardware

stanchions included

the moment you seal from below you are kissing your decks goodbye in no time..especially if you have water intrusion and cored decks

cheers
 

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Here's what I did when I rebedded my stanctions on a boat I had some years ago...
Most boats do have wood cored decks. I took my power drill, put a finishing nail in the chuck with about 1/2" of the nail bent 90 degrees. Put the nail in all the holes and turned on the drill basically opening up the core and not making the holes in both layers of fiberglass any larger. After that, I filled the enlarged holes with epoxy. After that dried, I redrilled the holes. After remounting my stanctions, I knew if any water did leak thru, it would only come in contact with hardened epoxy and never soak into the wood core.
I did mine last year (the left side) and I'm going to do the right this year.

This is pretty much spot on, except that I overdrilled the holes first.

So the procedure I followed :

Overdrill
Remove core with nail
Countersink the top (and bottom if you can reach it)
Mask the bottom of the holes
Fill with epoxy
Drill correct hole for fasteners
Countersink the top of the hole (helps sealant do its job)
Assemble with butyl tape

Have a few spare bolts, nuts and washers (or replace them all) I had a couple that siezed or were badly corroded.

I filled with unthickened West epoxy, which will shrink a little when it sets so then you top off with some more. My deck is sloping, so the second batch of epoxy got colloidal silica additive to make it not run, and sit level with the deck.
 

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Courtney the Dancer
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Follow the instructions provided in the link to Compass Marine (Mainsail here on SN). It's an extra couple of steps, but fairly minimal time, and you will never have to worry about a wet core in those areas again. Also, order the butyl rubber for re-bedding from Mainsail, his is infinitely better than the Home Depot stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got my butyl tape from Maine back a couple months ago, just now getting around to attempting the project. Thanks for all the advice, I found Maine's guide to potting holes last night too, not sure how I had missed it before. Thanks everybody.
 

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Have a few spare bolts, nuts and washers (or replace them all) I had a couple that siezed or were badly corroded.QUOTE]

Why go to the length of removing stanchion bases, or other hardware, and not replace all fasteners at the same time? Potentially corroded or stressed fasteners are a weak point in the re-install.
 

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I just rebed my toe rails...there are 90 of them(fasteners)


80 or so per side where fine...

the 10 that needed were replaced...

thats how that works

I must add there are a lot more loads on stanchions if used correctly than on toerails...so I agree if you can youd do well getting new ones, but remember new is not always better especially regarding rigging and metals...
 
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