[killarney_sailor]

I currently have the drive unit and engine for my mainsail furled out for servicing (once every 30 years whether it needs it or not). The motor connections are inside the mast but not protected from the elements very well. The cable to the motor is quite substantial. What is the best way to protect these connections (bolt terminals with rings on the wire)?

 

[Maine Sail]

I currently have the drive unit and engine for my mainsail furled out for servicing (once every 30 years whether it needs it or not). The motor connections are inside the mast but not protected from the elements very well. The cable to the motor is quite substantial. What is the best way to protect these connections (bolt terminals with rings on the wire)?

What gauge wire..? Perhaps the best bet are what well drillers use for submersible well pumps. They are called Sta-Kons or other wise known as adhesive lined heat shrink butt splices ....

Considering well pumps live 100% submerged for 15-30 years, at 240V, I'd say the well drillers approach works quite well...

Adhesive lined heat shrink butt splices and the proper crimp tool, done....

 

[killarney_sailor]

The wire to eye connections seem pretty good. I was thinking more about the connection between the eye and terminals on the motor. There was no protection there, just bare metal. Was wondering if the whole thing should be coated in something after it is connected?

 

[Maine Sail]

The wire to eye connections seem pretty good. I was thinking more about the connection between the eye and terminals on the motor. There was no protection there, just bare metal. Was wondering if the whole thing should be coated in something after it is connected?

So this particular motor has lugs on it not wire pigtails with sealed wires coming from within the motor housing?

You will need to generously coat the terminals with a product like NO-OX-ID Special A....

 

[capta]

When I bought my boat, I serviced this motor as well, whether it needed it or not.
I noticed that water intrusion into the area left water sitting on the seal for the shaft into the motor and I didn't like the idea at all. So I cut a funnel that was wide enough to move any water coming down from the foil area to beyond the motor casing and siliconed it in place. We've nowhere near 30 years, but so far, so good.
PM if you'd like a pic.

 

[killarney_sailor]

So this particular motor has lugs on it not wire pigtails with sealed wires coming from within the motor housing?

You will need to generously coat the terminals with a product like NO-OX-ID Special A....

It has lugs on it. What other options could I use if I can't find the stuff you suggest - which I am guessing will be the case.

The funnel idea is a good one and I will see what I can arrange. This thing has worked remarkably well for many years. Will be interesting to see how it works after a major rebuild.

 

[Whitebread117]

NO-OX-ID would be a fine choice, but if you can't get your hands on some any silicone dielectric grease would be much better than nothing.

Any auto parts store will have it, commonly used to insulate spark plug boots.

Around here you can order No-Ox off the web easily enough but I don't know off hand of any local stores that carry it other than a couple of wholesale only electrical supply houses. If you are time constrained it might be hard to get your hands on.

 

[hellosailor]

Clean metal to metal contact, using a "contact enhancer" if possible or simply a little silicon grease (sparingly!) just between the contacts as that will also ensure no corrosion. Then you want to pot the connections. If you can't find adhesive lined heat shrink or something similar, you can solvent clean the area and the cables, and then paint or spray multiple coats of "Liquid Lectric" or "PlastiDip" or similar liquid vinyl compounds over it. Multiple layers, built up carefully and bonded to a clean surface, will form a sealed plastic jacket over the contacts and keep out all moisture. But that takes some patience, putting on each coat before the last one fully sets and dries, and building a solid thickness without any bare spots.

It will also peel off cleanly when and if you need to get in there in the future.

 

[pjs1554]

Is NO-OX-ID Special A electrically conductive? Similar to NOALOX? Care should be take how much you use and where it gets spread if it is.

 

[wmjr]

Lowes carries NO-OX-ID but I cannot find any store with NO-OX-ID Special A on the label.

Watermark

 

[MarkSF]

How about ring terminal boots? Scroll down :

Wire Connectors Marine Grade Wire Heat Shrink Terminals, Lugs, Battery Terminals Genuinedealz.com

 

[hellosailor]

A great way to prevent accidental contact (like a wrench shorting things out) and a great way to keep hay off the tractor battery BUT absolutely no use at keeping moisture off marine connections. Moist air will still get in, and tend to be trapped & make corrosion grow, unseen.

Although, if you coat things with grease, the boots would help keep the grease neatly in place.