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Discussion Starter #1
other owners/previous owners input if any available before completing the
deal. this one is neglected and very run down, but it looks like some money and some hand labour will bring her back to being a very nice yacht.
Opinions please
Chris
 

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We have a later model Ticon 30 which had very good build quality and is well outfitted. I'm not sure if the TMI 30's would be the same.

As you've probably noticed, it's very roomy for a 30 footer. It is a very capable coastal / inland cruiser as well. We really enjoy our boat.

It may be impossible for you to find any advice on repairs you need to make that are specific to the boat (compared to, say a Catalina 30). On the other hand, the engine is a Universal Diesel M15, very common, and other components are likewise.

Like any other boat, you have to balance the buying price with the amount of time and money that it will take to bring it to the shape you want it to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ref TMI/Ticon 30, Halsey Herreshoff design seems

well built and overall a nice boat. Thank you for your reply. I have a surveyor getting onboard on Thursday. Perhaps you might have an answer to some questions

Do you know what commodity makes up the deck laminate, balsa or foam core of some kind.

Same question in regards to the upper part of the hull?, or is this just solid glass?

Do you know how the deck to hull flange joint is made up and fastened?

Are you happy with the way the mast is supported, or d you feel some addditinal stays wold be sensible?

I'm hoping that with some really nice sails she will point and perform, her ballast to weight ratio looks very good. How high do you reckon you can point, will she get down to 30 degree and stay steady in the 35-40 area?

What sort of prop do you have? I'm thinking Max to help reversing.

I'm going to be keeping her on Lake Michigan, Muskegon for starters, eventually will probably head south down the islands to my old haunting ground St. Lucia. I get the impression she will make out to be a good sea boat, your opinion?

Hope I'm not being a nuisance and appreciate you input

Thanks Chris
 

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well built and overall a nice boat. Thank you for your reply. I have a surveyor getting onboard on Thursday. Perhaps you might have an answer to some questions

Do you know what commodity makes up the deck laminate, balsa or foam core of some kind. Marine Plywood

Same question in regards to the upper part of the hull?, or is this just solid glass? Solid Glass

Do you know how the deck to hull flange joint is made up and fastened? Unknown, but I'll check.

Are you happy with the way the mast is supported, or d you feel some addditinal stays wold be sensible? Mast is keel stepped with upper and lower shrouds, foil / furler forestay, backstay with tensioner. All are sufficiently well built. Sailed this summer on Lake Huron in 25 kt winds with 150 genoa and no reef in main. No mast pumping, undue flexing or anything to suggest any issues. The rig is solid. This boat has done the Port Huron to Makinaw race 5 times.

I'm hoping that with some really nice sails she will point and perform, her ballast to weight ratio looks very good. How high do you reckon you can point, will she get down to 30 degree and stay steady in the 35-40 area?
The fractional rig makes the boat point quite well. My sails are 6 years old but yes, it points like that, low 30's.

What sort of prop do you have? I'm thinking Max to help reversing. We have the original prop, two blades, 12", non-folding. No issues reversing but we don't spend a lot of time going in that direction.

I'm going to be keeping her on Lake Michigan, Muskegon for starters, eventually will probably head south down the islands to my old haunting ground St. Lucia. I get the impression she will make out to be a good sea boat, your opinion? We sail on Lake Huron, no ocean experience. In my opinion, it's much the same hull shape, ballast, etc as a Catalina 30. Nice inland / coastal cruiser, not for open ocean. Again, that's just my opinion.

Hope I'm not being a nuisance and appreciate you input. No trouble Chris. Not many of these around. I'm glad to help. There are a couple of Ticon 30's for sale here if that one doesn't work out for you.

Thanks Chris[/quote]
 

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Correction on the deck laminate. The cockpit sole is marine plywood cored. The superstructure is balsa cored.

The hull/deck joint is an inward molded flange on the hull with the deck molding laid over and mechanically and chemically fastened to the hull.
 

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Is this post still active? If yes, I recently purchased a Ticon 30 (1985) and I am seeking information: (1) Has anyone installed a windlass on the Ticon 30 (1985)? If yes, the deck where the windlass has to be installed strong enough or does it need to be reinforced? What's the core in this area of the boat?

(2) Has anyone converted the 2 bunk-over-bunk configuration to a single v-berth?

Thanks,
Raj
 

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Morse, did you ever find answers to your questions? I have an 85 Ticon as well and would be curious as to what you found out.


Dan
 

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Hi Dan, Unfortunately I've not received any reply to my questions. I will be at the boat show in Toronto next week and hope to gather some information. Where approx. are you based?
Raj
 

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The Ticon 30 dpes not have a plywood core in the deck, it is balsa. The hull deck joint is a shoe box flange type joint secured with stainless steel fasteners through the toe rail.

I have serious concerns about surveying a boat in the current temperatures in Indiana.
Take a look at "Surveying Frozen Boats"

I have not surveyed one of these in a couple of years but let me look at my files, I think I can blank out personal info and attach a pdf that will give you an idea of what I found.
 

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OK, I have blanked out the identifying info in this survey of a pretty average 86' Ticon 30. This site will not let me attach a pdf but I have posted it on line and you can view it here.
 

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Good looking survey, BP!

Morse:

That's a very large anchor locker lid.. if the locker is rather deep that can make it quite difficult to effectively mount a windlass.

One thing I have seen done is to cut off the first (forward) foot and a half or so of the lid, reinforce it and bolt & bed it into place (remove an area of core around the cut edges and reseal) Then mount the windlass on the strengthened reattached portion of the lid. This provides a good lead from the bow roller to the gypsy, yet leaves you plenty of access to the locker itself with the remaining opening section of the lid.

Good luck!
 

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I have a 1986 Ticon which I bought in 1989 and have been sailing since, in the Pacific North West. Cockpit core is marine plywood; deck core is balsa; coachroof core is non-wood. Sorry, I don't have a windlass. Hull deck joint is sealed with butyl tape and through-bolted. Prop is 14RH12, but the pitch you need will depend on your engine/transmission. PM me if I can provide any more info.
 

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Sorry I missed the replies recently, I should probably check the settings on here with regard to notifications!

Our 1985 Ticon 30 is berthed on the Chesapeake in Pasadena, MD. I've been making numerous upgrades to the boat and would love to share information with fellow owners. Unfortunately the only website for owners is not very interactive nor updated apparently. I'm likely going to create a Facebook page today and see if we can't use that to share information.

If you'd like to share information separately, please send me a message. Currently I'm looking for information on the potential to install a slide-out board on the port settee to turn it into a double. It was apparently designed to be a double, but as I understand it, you needed to select that option at the factory. I have the mount for that board already in-place directly under the table. It appears all of the Ticons received that ledge, but not necessarily a slide-out board.

Dan
 

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Our 1985 Ticon 30 is berthed in Pasadena, MD, on the Chesapeake. Would love to share information if interested. More specifically, I'm trying to find out about switching wheels as well as a few other improvements.


Dan
 
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