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Hi!

I just joined this forum i hope some of you could help me with some information.

I recently acquired a 1978 Ranger 22 Sailboat. It is mostly there but it is still a restoration jobs. I'm having a hard time finding any information to help me on my efforts. Here are some of the questions I have, I'm hoping doe of you out there may have the answers or could direct me to someone who knows. So here it goes:

1. The previous owner of the boat ran over the back stay with a lawn mower. This boat has a shorter back stay that ends in a block & tackle setup to adjust the angle of the mast. I need to know how long is the Backstay for this boat so I can replace it with the appropriate length.

2. The windows were removed, but I have the original. Do these just get attached to the fiberglass directly? If so what should I be using to do this? There are no frames on this windows.

3. The keel iix fine. The previous owner had the stainless steel bracket that is mounted on the keel to lift the keel. Is this something you leave permanently attached on you only use it for lifting the keel? I have seen pictures of of the boat being lifted with a single steel cable attached to the keel. Not sure I feel comfortable with that. Any thoughts on this?

4. Can the hull on this support support the weight of the keel suspended out of the water? I need to do some fiberglass repairs to the keel and I'm truing to figure out whether I can just raise the whole thing or I need to support the keel at all times. Any guidance on this?

5. Does anybody have pictures of what the inside of the keel section should look like?

6. If the bolts have been removed or were missing, while sitting on a trailer for 2 years. Should I drop the keel and reset it? Or should I just tighten the screws and call it a day? Any advise will be appreciated.

Well that is all I have for now. Thank you all for any information you care to share.

Jose
 

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Hi: I bought a Ranger 22 near hospice in 2008, and am still doing things yearly to bring it back.

First about your backstay. Mine is shortened because I race Reepicheep (feisty mouse of Narnia), and like to be able to flatten my main going to weather in heavier air. My backstay has a 6:1 ratio. I suggest, whether you race or not, the adjuster makes sense for mainsail shape, therefore control in heavier air.

If you are going to do keel work you can do it all with exception of the very bottom when you are hauled and on poppets. The seriously accommodating yard I am in raised me up for two days to do the last bit of work on the keel bottom (looked like a relief map of the Himalayas in miniature). This required epoxy work before bottom painting.

Also, FYI, I spent 20 hours last fall sanding down the bottom to the gelcoat in order to apply four barrier coats (Interprotect 2000). This barrier coat will be good for 20 plus years, so won't have to sweat that one in my lifetime (pushing 78). A word of caution. If you do have to re-barrier coat your Ranger bottom, it is CRITICAL to make sure and apply the first coat of bottom paint when the last barrier coat is still tacky, or else the bottom coat won't bind to the barrier coat.

There has been a fair amount of leaking through the deck fittings, stanchions, cleats, sail control hardware, etc. If you are going to take them off, do it in the fall when you haul, cover your boat and let the balsa core dry through the winter. I've been told by riggers to use "life caulk" rather than a silicone sealant because the latter doesn't like stainless steel a lot. I have used "flex shot" for deck fittings, drawing a bead around all the fitting bases. So far, it has worked well, especially around the chain plates.

I've also used Loctite "blue" on all fittings that have a washer and nut on one end. This is most important on fittings that move, like the traveler and main sheet systems. Had the main sheet pop[ off when racing one evening a couple of years back. Loctite blue did the trick nicely.

A five HP outboard is more than ample to drive your boat. In fact you'll be wasting horsepower, but having an engine that has a five gallon tank attached is nice if you are going a fair distance. I've sailed to Martha's Vineyard from Westbrook, CT five times now, and the engine (Tohatsu) performed very well. Don't forget to add enzyme treatment to your ethanol gas. Four stroke engines do not like ethanol.

Hope this isn't TMI. Good luck, good sailing.
 

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Jose:

I don't have a bracket on the keel for lifting the post, Have an O ring keel bolt. Works just fine. I torques the keel bolts with a socket wrench this spring, and one bolt came off. It was a crappy stainless bolt at best. Reepicheep is in the water and doing just fine. I'll address this issue when hauled this fall by either boring into what's left and inserting a smaller keel bot, or by dropping the keel and redoing with an original sized keel bolt.

About your windows...all you need is a good sealant, and pop them back in. There are no frames for the windows on my boat.

Also suggest you don't do fiberglass repairs on your keel. Epoxy is better. I used Marine Tex to fill in dings and dents before putting one barrier coat on then painting while tacky.

The pros at the yard where Reepicheep lives told me to do two coats of bottom paint, and a third coat to about a foot and a half below the waterline. FYI, my yard requires the use of EPaint. As a racer, I have no complaints about EPaint. Petit also makes a good environmentally sound bottom paint (same formulation as EPaint).
 

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Hi!

I just joined this forum i hope some of you could help me with some information.

I recently acquired a 1978 Ranger 22 Sailboat. It is mostly there but it is still a restoration jobs. I'm having a hard time finding any information to help me on my efforts. Here are some of the questions I have, I'm hoping doe of you out there may have the answers or could direct me to someone who knows. So here it goes:

1. The previous owner of the boat ran over the back stay with a lawn mower. This boat has a shorter back stay that ends in a block & tackle setup to adjust the angle of the mast. I need to know how long is the Backstay for this boat so I can replace it with the appropriate length.

Take note the backstay can come down to the handrail in length to allow for the block and tackle to have room to work. A 4 to one setup with Dyneema 1/4 inch line is best.

2. The windows were removed, but I have the original. Do these just get attached to the fiberglass directly? If so what should I be using to do this? There are no frames on this windows.

I just re siliconed mine in as that was what they used originally

3. The keel iix fine. The previous owner had the stainless steel bracket that is mounted on the keel to lift the keel. Is this something you leave permanently attached on you only use it for lifting the keel? I have seen pictures of of the boat being lifted with a single steel cable attached to the keel. Not sure I feel comfortable with that. Any thoughts on this?

The keel is fine, the boat was engineered to hang 900# hanging off of it. The torque to the bolts is 45#. Leave the lifting tab on the keel.

4. Can the hull on this support support the weight of the keel suspended out of the water? I need to do some fiberglass repairs to the keel and I'm truing to figure out whether I can just raise the whole thing or I need to support the keel at all times. Any guidance on this?

use a fairing compound after you clean the keel good and apply a layer of fiberglass resin, roll an brush. Seal it good, then barrier coat an bottom paint. Keel only, hull sand fill an barrier coat an bottom paint.

5. Does anybody have pictures of what the inside of the keel section should look like?

The stainless steel tube has straps weldede to it an the interior is filled with foam and the two glass halves are put over and glassed in place. keep it sealed and faired. It might be a good idea to drop the rudder an clean out the drain as leaves can build up. Also use heavy bearing grease on the shaft as you put it back in.

6. If the bolts have been removed or were missing, while sitting on a trailer for 2 years. Should I drop the keel and reset it? Or should I just tighten the screws and call it a day? Any advise will be appreciated.

Don't drop the keel unless you have to make a big repair like replacing a J bolt. This is a big job, get help. Join Ranger22 group at yahoo.com Parts are still arround. I am rebuilding my second Ranger right now so any questions can be PMed to me I can help. Go in the albums and see both of my boats. have a good one.
 
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