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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have two of these and thought until this year that I liked them. I have been chasing down leaks on both of them this year and have now realized that both of them have small cracks in underside of the base. All the rebuild kits in the world aren't going to solve that problem.

Has anyone else had this with the PHII heads? I am thinking replacing the base is going to be a pain, but that's where I'm headed I think. They are at least 10 years old, so I suppose it's inevitable.
 

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Farr 11.6 (Farr 38)
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I have a Raritan PHII on my present boat and have had them on other boats as well. To me they represent one of the best of the reasonably priced toilets that are out there. I just rebuilt mine last spring and the parts were readily available through Raritan, although they are not inexpensive.

What I like about the PHII is that it needs comparatively little maintenance, the parts can be easily removed and replaced (unlike a similar priced PAR) and the parts are readily available.

If there is a shortcoming it is the connection between the base and the waste discharge elbow which can be difficult to seat properly with the force of any misalignment in a modern heavy wall hose. I actually made a small clamping device that I used to pull the parts together and in alignment so that I could get the bolts into place without straining the plastic. I also added large washers under the heads of the bolts and nuts to spread the load.

Jeff
 

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Schooner Captain
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We have two. In stead of replacement, how about repair?
Grind a V shape into the plastic where it is cracked, and fill with resin, then put a single piece of fiberglass cloth on top and work it in. Will be surprised if that does not solve the issue.
 

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BJV
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Pretty sure material is poly based so not sure if epoxy will work.

I have two Raritain heads, one in steady use for 12 years now and still going strong.
my recommendation is check out raritain engineering site and order the replacement part and your back in business. Coat a few dollars but substantially cheaper than new head, and be a shame to swap out for a cheap weekend head.
 

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Going on 22 years with Raritan PHII in two different boats, few problems or complaints. They will provide parts, maybe more costly than you'd like but nice to stick with something that works..

Any chance it was ever frozen undrained?? Hard to imagine another way for that part to crack.
 
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Master Mariner
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I hate the PHll heads, but we use ours every single day, not just now and then. Both ours cracked at the pump/exhaust hose junction and that requires a complete pump unit for replacement, nearly the price of a new head. I chose to replace the pump on one with the Jabsco electric conversion which solves the problem permanently and will do the other when I find a good deal on another Jabsco conversion or find a Wilcox/Crittenden Skipper head; now that was a great marine toilet!
I did try to repair one, but as mentioned nothing will stick to that plastic and even when I melted the same plastic as a repair it just recracked.
 

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BJV
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242 Posts
I hate the PHll heads, but we use ours every single day, not just now and then. Both ours cracked at the pump/exhaust hose junction and that requires a complete pump unit for replacement, nearly the price of a new head. I chose to replace the pump on one with the Jabsco electric conversion which solves the problem permanently and will do the other when I find a good deal on another Jabsco conversion or find a Wilcox/Crittenden Skipper head; now that was a great marine toilet!
I did try to repair one, but as mentioned nothing will stick to that plastic and even when I melted the same plastic as a repair it just recracked.
Being using ours daily for 5 years (perm liveaboards) and only repair has been replacement of jocker valve. Cracked pump housing usually from frost damage or overtightening of screws holding jocker valve and outlet bracket.
raritain provides bare pump housing, no need to by complete pump.
 

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Master Mariner
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Being using ours daily for 5 years (perm liveaboards) and only repair has been replacement of jocker valve. Cracked pump housing usually from frost damage or overtightening of screws holding jocker valve and outlet bracket.
raritain provides bare pump housing, no need to by complete pump.
Not too much frost down here in the Caribbean. Last I checked the pump housing was around us$170.00, not all that cheap. No screw tightening will crack the housings at the base under the outlet fixture. The outlet design does not allow for the newer less flexible hoses of today, as mentioned above.
 

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A new Jabsco was cheaper then a new pump for the PHII. Same bolt pattern, so fit just right.
Now walking through Malaysian customs from Singapore toting a toilet over my shoulder was a different story....
 

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Farr 11.6 (Farr 38)
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Last I checked the pump housing was around us$170.00, not all that cheap.
I don't know when or where you looked but the list price for the pump housing with the shaft seal cartridge is around $70.00 and Defender has that part for around $60.00.

Raritan PHII Pump Housing Assembly

Defender also carries the base (part 1249) which they sell for $45.00.
Raritan Toilet Base

Both parts combined cost less than the cheapest toilet out there.

Jeff
 
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BJV
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Not too much frost down here in the Caribbean. Last I checked the pump housing was around us$170.00, not all that cheap. No screw tightening will crack the housings at the base under the outlet fixture. The outlet design does not allow for the newer less flexible hoses of today, as mentioned above.
Pump housing is $68.13 at the Raritain parts harbor.
we use the optional 90 degree outlet which rotates and helps allieviate san hose stress.
i have over tha past 20 years worked on many jabsco heads and found designed and construction substantially weaker than the PHII. This year added problem, their jocker valve replacements leak like a sieve, to the extent I use the PHII jocker for folks I help.
we have many libeaboard cruisimg friends which swear by the PHII. Jabsco's twist and lock a great economy head very suitable for casual sailing, occasional overnight.
Not a good option in my opinion for consistant use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The pump housing is not the problem. It's the base that has cracks. The pump housing assembly can and has cracked too, but it doesn't include the piston which can also break. They also sell the assembly complete with piston and prints etc....

But our problem is cracks in the base, and it's is not just a cover Seaduction.. 1246w is the cover.
 

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The pump housing is not the problem. It's the base that has cracks. The pump housing assembly can and has cracked too, but it doesn't include the piston which can also break. They also sell the assembly complete with piston and prints etc....

But our problem is cracks in the base, and it's is not just a cover Seaduction.. 1246w is the cover.
Happy you looked over the diagram. Again, the thing is easy to take apart and repair.:):)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I have taken the housing apart and rebuilt everything on these PHII heads many more times than I ever wanted to. The problem now is the base as JeffH mentioned. Seaduction, thanks for showing Raritan's diagram, but the base is not "actually just a cover."

I have ordered the base. I have tried repairing with limited success on this one.

What I like about the PHII is that it is largely plug and play, and that's my goal with everything. The base is not a part of any rebuild kits, so of course this complicates things since I am overseas.

Thanks all!
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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I have a Raritan PH 11 Head and it has been my daily go to for 7 years. I rebuild and a couple of jokers have kept it going. But like others I have seen cracks in the pump housing around the inlet and may take the opportunity to bring back a spare housing when I go skiing in SLC..

Is it the 1200CW housing I need? Are there any hidden gotchas.

BoatStoreUSA are showing them at $49 with the complete assy at $205
 
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