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One of None
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The black rubber impeller primed from the bucket in about 5 seconds E. The globe impeller is about 3/64ths too thin. It's pumping like a champ again!
 

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Bronze fittings?

I'm replacing my Oberdorfer n202-15m pump and just wondering what fittings to use. I have a 3/8 NPT to 5/8 barb elbow and a straight 3/8 NPT to 5/8 barb nipple on the old one, I don't know if it is bronze or brass.

I read that brass fittings don't work well with bronze, and while buying fittings made of brass does not seem to be a problem, I'm not able to find any bronze fittings with 3/8 NPT anywhere.

Wonder what others used? Is brass ok? Plastic?
 

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Learning the HARD way...
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Brass is OK in this application, as it should be protected by your H/X zinc.
 

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Bronze is a little hard to find in 3/8" NPT, you may have to settle on brass. Not ideal, they will just have to replace the fittings more often. Plastic will break too easily.
 

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Re: My experience, and a few references

Thanks! I was checking the impeller on my 202m-7 and the same thing happened to me. I didn't miss the C-clip but the shaft came out when I pulled the impeller out. When I when to put the shaft back in, I had to wiggle it but it went back. It is an old pump and the gasket was all but gone...

On anther note, my O'day 34 has a manual bilge pump put no electric. I am adding one and probably two and m trying to figure out where to discharge. Thinking about a "y" connector into the manual pump discharge hose. Thoughts? where do you discharge?
 

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Re: My experience, and a few references

In the hope that this helps someone else...

I wanted to remove the impeller on my new-to-me Universal MX25 with an Oberdorfer pump for winter storage. I removed the cover plate, and there she was. In order to more easily reach the impeller, I used a small set of pliers to pull the impeller out. Unfortunately, I didn't notice the small C clip that held the impeller to the shaft:hammer. The impeller AND the shaft pulled out nicely.

I was then confronted with the problem of separating the shaft from the impeller without the use of the C clip tool, which was at home and not on the boat. I was also concerned that the shaft removed so easily. I thought that I had previously read here, that the shaft was press fitted to the bearings. Mine simply slid out.

First thing first; remove C clip. Available tools; several screwdrivers, a ball peen hammer, several hacksaw blades, channel lock pliers, and a socket set.... I tried using a slotted screwdriver to first see if I could push the clip to expand it, and then finagle it off; no dice. Then, I tried to pry the clip off with a screwdriver. This met with limited success - I broke the clip, but removed the impeller from the shaft. How expensive could a little stainless C clip be? Answer: $6.

[EDIT] April 7, 2016 - I read somewhere in the past that this "C" clip was only installed to prevent the shaft from slipping out of the pump during shipping, and IS NOT NEEDED WHEN THE PUMP IS INSTALLED. For this season I will run the pump without the clip, and post back if it is, or is not needed based on my experience.

Now to replace the shaft; fortunately, it simply slid back into the pump, and I was able to easily realign the tang in the impeller shaft with the slot in the gear shaft. I was suspicious, because I remembered something about making a tool, and press fitting, in the link above. It seemed to me that this was far too easy.

Therefore, I looked carefully at the pump housing to see if the seals were OK. I noticed that the pump was not painted, but then again, neither was the front (aluminum) cover of this engine.

I had long ago surmised that this engine had had an old style alternator bracket, which had cracked the engine timing cover, and concluded that both the timing cover, and the water pump must have been replaced by the previous owner. One of the first things that I did after acquiring the vessel, was to replace the alternator mounting bracket, and the alternator. For more about that project, and why it's important, look here.

Back to the water pump housing, I noticed a VERY small green stain near the weep hole. "The water seal must be leaking," I concluded, and decided to rebuild the whole pump. I am now not convinced that this diagnosis was accurate, but I now have the parts should the need arise.

After I drove home, I looked through Depco's catalog, which you can find here, and concluded that I had a Oberdorfer 202-15. But was puzzled by the fact that they offered 4 different rebuild kits. I also recalled from my trip to the boat that the pump did not have a paper gasket, as shown below, but rather a rubber O ring, set into a groove in the pump housing.


- Credit image from Ron Hill's Tech Note posted at c34.org

HERE is why Depco offers 4 versions of the rebuild kit: Oberdorfer has a NEW style pump, which is why Depco uses an N prefix for the rebuild kits. The new style uses an O-ring, which is set into a groove on the fact of the pump body instead of the paper gasket (#3 in the above illustration) on a flat pump body face. The other difference is that one kit is a minor rebuild kit (impeller, clip, and gasket / O-ring), while the other is a major rebuild kit (impeller, clip, gasket / O-ring, cover plate, screws, drain plug, graphite bearing, water and oil seal). Neither kit includes the shaft.

Because I tend to be thorough (my wife has another word...), I ordered the major rebuild kit (N202M-15MJK), a shaft (8767), and an extra snap ring, aka. C-Clip (5373).

Just now, in the basement I looked carefully at the parts. I tried placing the shaft through the carbon bushing just to see how tight the tolerances were. It slid through easily. Then I tried the shaft through the lip-seals (#10 in the above drawing). This was tighter, but in no way required a press.

Here is what I learned about the M202-15 raw water pump;
  • The Lip-Seals do not require any special tool to insert the shaft (although I suspect that they WILL require the press to remove from the pump body).
  • This pump has evolved. The old style pump body has a flat face, and uses a paper gasket to seal the face and the impeller cover. THE NEW STYLE PUMP: Uses a different pump body, and is designed to use an O ring, rather than a paper gasket.
  • Many (most?) of these pumps have a cover that is only mountable with one side facing the impeller. The impeller and the shaft constantly wear against the cover. The replacement cover from Depco will allow you to mount the cover with either side facing the impeller. Therefore, if the replacement cover should wear to the point that it leaks, just flip it over.
  • Because the pump impeller is a common thing to go, you MUST have a C clip tool in your tool kit.
I believe that I may have ordered the major kit, when I didn't need it. However I will have it should the need arise.

I hope that this helps someone else learn from my mistakes. :eek:
Thanks! I was checking the impeller on my 202m-7 and the same thing happened to me. I didn't miss the C-clip but the shaft came out when I pulled the impeller out. When I when to put the shaft back in, I had to wiggle it but it went back. It is an old pump and the gasket was all but gone...

On anther note, my O'day 34 has a manual bilge pump put no electric. I am adding one and probably two and m trying to figure out where to discharge. Thinking about a "y" connector into the manual pump discharge hose. Thoughts? where do you discharge?
 

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Glad that my post helped!

I have since learned that the "C" clip is NOT NECESSARY! It was fitted by Oberdorfer to aid in shipping.

A quick answer to your question is that the bilge pump discharges through the transom. I suggest that you start a new thread, where I can give you a lot more detail.
 
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I have since learned that the "C" clip is NOT NECESSARY! It was fitted by Oberdorfer to aid in shipping..
That explains something. I changed my impeller last week, and each time I have done it I wondered why there was the C clip. It just seemed to hold -- nothing! I always put it back since, after all, the engineers who designed it must have known what they were doing, who am I to mess with their design?!

So know I know!
 

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Re: My experience, and a few references

Thank you for the thorough report! I have a question regarding priming of the water pump if needed.
I replace a fried impeller and gasket today, made sure all water sources/hoses are clear. Sealed everything up and still no water. I did confirm that the impeller shaft is engaged and spinning when the motor is running. Is there something I'm missing to prime the pump?
Thank you in advance. Mark
 

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Re: My experience, and a few references

Thank you for the thorough report! I have a question regarding priming of the water pump if needed.
I replace a fried impeller and gasket today, made sure all water sources/hoses are clear. Sealed everything up and still no water. I did confirm that the impeller shaft is engaged and spinning when the motor is running. Is there something I'm missing to prime the pump?
Thank you in advance. Mark
One trick that I have used to get my pump to prime is to coat the surface of the impeller with liquid soap. This usually gets the pump to work right away.

The only time that this has not worked, was this year when working on a client's boat. I believe that something that my client did in the process of winterizing the pump on his boat created a leak in the pump housing. We solved this by simply installing a new pump, rather than chasing our tails endlessly. 20 minutes later the new pump was installed and everyone was happy.
 

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I appreciate your quick response. I read on the forum to coat with soap prior to installing the impeller also which definitely helped getting it in. I'm going to try to connect the water source hose direclty to the water pump intake to take out the filter and associated hoses. It's perplexing, I know I'm getting pressure in the pump due to the amount of air coming from the out put of the pump with the 'discharge' hose disconnected and the amount of pressure I see. It's a pretty simple mechanical system which is why I'm perplexed. If it doesn't work connecting the hose direclty, I'll order a new water pump. however, my pump base looks nothing like the one in the future above. It looks like there are only 2 connecting bolts. I can send pictures if there is a way. Thanks again.
 

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mpoisson,

What make and model engine are you working on? Several different Oberdorfer pumps were used on several different make and model engines. Most references are to a MN-202-15 used on a Universal M12/M15/M18/M25/M30/M4-30/M35/M25-XP/5411/5421
 

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Mark, when I replaced the impeller on my Oberdorfer on my Atomic 4 the first time, I made my own gasket from gasket material I purchased from a local auto store - big mistake. The pump would not prime. I called Moyer Marine and told them what I did, and right away they solved the problem. They sold me a replacement gasket that was only about the thickness of a single sheet of paper. I installed the new gasket and the pump worked like a charm.

Here is the pump I have:



Hope this helps,

Gary :cool:
 

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Thanks Gary, glad to hear that the gasket fixed the problem. My new impeller came with a paper gasket. I ordered from Catalina Direct and both fit perfectly. You now have me wondering though. When I removed the old impeller, there was no gasket at all, only what ever sealant the last owner used. I do have another question. What is the proper position of the adjustment/valve on the underside of the pump?

Thanks for the picture, it is a match for what I have.
 

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Thanks Gary, glad to hear that the gasket fixed the problem. My new impeller came with a paper gasket. I ordered from Catalina Direct and both fit perfectly. You now have me wondering though. When I removed the old impeller, there was no gasket at all, only what ever sealant the last owner used. I do have another question. What is the proper position of the adjustment/valve on the underside of the pump?

Thanks for the picture, it is a match for what I have.
Then it would appear that you have an N202M -03 or -07



If your pump has a groove machined into the body, then it is a N202 pump and you use a rubber gasket (#3 in the diagram above). If not, it is a 202 pump, and it uses a paper gasket. There should be no "sealant" other than one of these gaskets.

That "adjustment" is a plug, that can be removed to prime the pump (if you can get water into it).

I suggest that you simply call Depco, and order a new pump.
 

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Good news....it looks like it's fixed. I took the raw water hose and ran directly to the water pump and it primed the pump quickly. Re-assembled the rest of the system, ran to the pump dock and back and she maintained 165 degrees. Note, I'm in Arizona and it around 108 outside right now. Thanks for all of your suggestions.
 
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